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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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06-08-2013, 09:12 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 64
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Wiring question
Good morning all - I'm seeking some guidance with my nemesis.....wiring.
I've acquired a gimme voltage reducer - I only plan on using this to power head and tail lights for now. However, the reducer is only a three wire version, and my searches haven't produced much guidance with this type of unit. two of the wires are easy enough - they go to main pack + and - (obviously)....according to the directions i tie the negatives back to the main negative of the pack - AND THEN - run a wire to the chassis. I know that grounding to the chassis in these carts is a no no, so is it ok just to run the converted 12v negative back to the main negative post of the pack? Last edited by Xaugievike; 06-08-2013 at 09:41 AM.. Reason: typo |
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06-08-2013, 09:37 AM | #2 |
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Posts: n/a
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Re: Wiring question
yea i've seen that to ... wonder why you can't ground to cart ??
i would think you could tie back into the ground .. it seems the 3 wire reducer uses the power wire to reduce volts heres the one i found for 3 wire to 48v... guess we need johnnieB |
06-08-2013, 11:04 AM | #3 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Wiring question
The reason for not grounding the frame of an electric golf cart is electrical and fire safety.
The battery pack is an arc welder and the atmosphere in the battery compartment can be explosive. (Batteries produce Hydrogen and Oxygen gases when they are charged - Hydrogen is what took out the Hindenburg Zeppelin) If the frame is grounded, touching any bare wire anywhere on the frame with result in an arc, which may cause the batteries to explode, showering everyone and everything in the vicinity with a 30% concentration of sulfuric acid. Also, any tool touching the frame while working on the wiring can be arc welded into place and set the cart on fire, which in turn will set the garage on fire. --------- On three wire voltage reducers. 1. Positive battery voltage in (36V, 48V, whatever the reducer is rated for.) 2. Positive 12V output to the accessories. 3. Shared Negative. (Both the negative wire from the battery pack and the negative wires to the 12V accessories are connected to this wire.) Most people use a fuse distribution block to distribute the +12V and an non-fused distribution block for the the -12V. If you don't want the voltage reducer running all the time (which will drain the battery pack), you need to put a switch (or relay) in the Positive battery voltage wire. |
06-08-2013, 11:13 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 64
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Re: Wiring question
thanks Johnnie B -
I knew about the frame grounding/arc welding/kaboom situation....just didnt know how to address the negative(s). Is there a popular fuse block (both pos and neg) that folks on here prefer? |
06-08-2013, 11:32 AM | #5 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Wiring question
I don't know of any favorites.
From the pictures I've seen, all sorts are used. Auto parts store, Radio Shack, Marine supply and BGW Site Sponsors would be likely sources. |
06-08-2013, 12:03 PM | #6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Wiring question
thanks Mr. Wizard
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06-08-2013, 12:17 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 64
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Re: Wiring question
fantastic - so in summary - all negatives get tied back to the main pack.
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06-08-2013, 12:27 PM | #8 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Wiring question
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06-09-2013, 06:16 AM | #9 |
Gone Mad
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
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Re: Wiring question
I got my fuse block from a marine store. Little more pricey, but it's more corrosion resistant, and has a negative bus built in.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...4#.UbRjwpwfbTo |
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