rewire help 2004 PDS

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by cbryan88

1. OK so I replaced F&R switch...and I still get B+ at pin 4 on controller in both F&R settings, but off in Neutral.

2. Checked pin 2 & 3 in J1 of harness and both get B+ in F&R...

3. and I think the DCX adapter may be the problem, as there is a jumper loop on adapter that is tying pins 2,3 & 9 together in the female adapter plug so any time one of those pins gets voltage, they all will...

4. can this be right? is Alltrax really capable of miswiring the adapter?

1. The controller is being told to run in reverse when there is B+ on Pin-4, so controller is doing what it is being told to do.

2. Disconnect J1 from adapter and measure from Pin-1 to Pin-2 with an Ohmmeter.
Should closed in R, and open in both F and N.
Measure between Pin-1 and Pin-3. Should be closed in F and open in R and N.
Pin-2 should not be connected to Pin-3 with F/R switch in any position.

3. If the F/R switch ohms out okay, the adapter is bad.
Pin-2 and Pin-3 are connected to Pin-9 through two diodes.
The diodes should be connected with the cathode (banded end) connected to Pin-9, so an ohmmeter will should show conductivity in one direction, but not the other.

Attached is a schematic showing the plumber's nightmare with the F/R switch in Forward.
Note: The F/R switch is mislabeled. The top set of contacts should be labeled Forward rather than Run. (Looks like their draftsman did a cut & paste from the DCX in a DCS schematic. )

4. Good help is hard to find these days.

[cbryan88]

Thanks Johnnie...I really appreciate the help!!! Got a full multimeter today so I can run through the continuity tests you described tomorrow. Was just using my onboard voltmeter to test before with jumpers.

I am still mystified as to how this could be going on when I did not touch the factory harness other than to unplug old controller and plug it into Alltrax DCX...and the cart was working fine to that point. I am starting to think my controller may be defective, I just don't know what else could explain this...

[cbryan88]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Checking the stock wiring harness is pretty straightforward.
Which with all the plugs that plugged into the PDS controller unplugged, you should have B+ on J1 Pins 4 & 5.
Other than those two pins, the rest are dead, so just use an Ohmmeter to check if the contacts are closing properly in the Run/Tow, Key, F/R and Pedal switches.
The Jack and Pin numbers for the switches are shown on attached PDS schematic.

If the stock wiring harness checks out, connect the plugs to the PDS to DCX adapter and the adapter to the DCX controller. Then lift the adapter plug attached to the DCX controller just enough to touch the pins with the test lead probes.

With Keyswitch ON and F/R in F, you should have B+ on Pins 6, 9 & 10. (Pin-5 will have B+ on it when pedal is pushed.)
The LED should have blinked Green four time and the stayed steady Green.
The solenoid might or might not, click and stay closed for a few seconds. Either way is okay.

If there is B+ on Pin-4, the adapter is bad.

Is it meaningful that my factroy harness J1 pin 1 wire is gray, when it is labeled ORG/RED on all the wiring diagrams I have seen?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by cbryan88

Thanks Johnnie...I really appreciate the help!!! Got a full multimeter today so I can run through the continuity tests you described tomorrow. Was just using my onboard voltmeter to test before with jumpers.

I am still mystified as to how this could be going on when I did not touch the factory harness other than to unplug old controller and plug it into Alltrax DCX...and the cart was working fine to that point. I am starting to think my controller may be defective, I just don't know what else could explain this...

I don't think the controller is bad. It appears to be doing what it is being told to do, IE: run in reverse all the time.

The problem is why is it being told to run in reverse, when the F/R switch is in F.

The possibilities are either the original F/R switch and/or wiring harness, or the new PDS to DCX wiring adapter.

The Ohmmeter test I detailed in an earlier post, should identify which is bad.

Originally Posted by cbryan88

Is it meaningful that my factroy harness J1 pin 1 wire is gray, when it is labeled ORG/RED on all the wiring diagrams I have seen?

My wiring harness has a gray wire on J1 Pin-1 also. See attached.

All it means in this case is that the schematics floating around on the net were published before the wire color used was changed.

Having worked with schematics and wiring diagrams since the late 1950's, I've found that the artwork is usually more accurate than the text.

[cbryan88]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

1. The controller is being told to run in reverse when there is B+ on Pin-4, so controller is doing what it is being told to do.

2. Disconnect J1 from adapter and measure from Pin-1 to Pin-2 with an Ohmmeter.
Should closed in R, and open in both F and N.
Measure between Pin-1 and Pin-3. Should be closed in F and open in R and N.
Pin-2 should not be connected to Pin-3 with F/R switch in any position.

3. If the F/R switch ohms out okay, the adapter is bad.
Pin-2 and Pin-3 are connected to Pin-9 through two diodes.
The diodes should be connected with the cathode (banded end) connected to Pin-9, so an ohmmeter will should show conductivity in one direction, but not the other.



Attached is a schematic showing the plumber's nightmare with the F/R switch in Forward.
Note: The F/R switch is mislabeled. The top set of contacts should be labeled Forward rather than Run. (Looks like their draftsman did a cut & paste from the DCX in a DCS schematic. )

4. Good help is hard to find these days.

OK, so using your helpful diagnostic procedure( I really can't thank you enough Johnnie), I have determined F&R switch and factory harness at J1 is all checking out with ohmmeter...BUt when I test between the 2 and 9 pins I get current in both directions when reversing meter leads on pins. 3 to 9 checks out as you described, current only flows one way. So it would seem that my adapter harness contains a faulty diode in the pin 2 to pin 9 jumper.

So now the question is, anyone have experience with EV Drives and Alltrax customer service on an issue like this? In my experience in the auto and marine world most electrical parts are zero warranty once they leave the building...this is a clear cut defect that has been there since the moment I plugged harness in. I ought to send them a bill for 5-6 hours of aggravation.

Crossing fingers that they do the right thing...I guess either way, this adapter should be a $10 part, though it prob sells for $50...there's always Radio Shack, Lol

Any idea what the specs are on these diodes?

[cbryan88]

And thanks again Johnnie for all your help...it's easy to get fed up on thing like this and really helps to have someone like you available. Forums like this are a tremendous resource thanks to all the knowledgeable and helpful people here like yourself. Thank You

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by cbryan88

OK, so using your helpful diagnostic procedure( I really can't thank you enough Johnnie), I have determined F&R switch and factory harness at J1 is all checking out with ohmmeter...BUt when I test between the 2 and 9 pins I get current in both directions when reversing meter leads on pins. 3 to 9 checks out as you described, current only flows one way. So it would seem that my adapter harness contains a faulty diode in the pin 2 to pin 9 jumper.

So now the question is, anyone have experience with EV Drives and Alltrax customer service on an issue like this? In my experience in the auto and marine world most electrical parts are zero warranty once they leave the building...this is a clear cut defect that has been there since the moment I plugged harness in. I ought to send them a bill for 5-6 hours of aggravation.

Crossing fingers that they do the right thing...I guess either way, this adapter should be a $10 part, though it prob sells for $50...there's always Radio Shack, Lol

Any idea what the specs are on these diodes?

If it is a manufacturing defect, Alltrax will probably replace it. Give them a call.

If they won't, a 1N4004 will work.

[cbryan88]

Carl at EV Drives was very responsive and helpful, and a new PDS adapter is in the mail. So ready to get past this and finish cart reassembly

[scottyb]

Carl's Customer service is second to none. He would send you a new adapter if it came out of his own pocket. I would do the same. Alltrax is a stand up company. I have seen them replace controllers which were clearly destroyed by the customer. They don't have to do this but it one reason why they enjoy the solid reputation they do today. It makes it easy to be a dealer when you know the manufacture will back their product.

[yurtle]

And given today's economy, I suspect they and you are operating on razor thin margins, so if you have to go "out of pocket", it probably takes quite a few additional sales just to break even. Most bigger companies have forgotten this, and a lot of consumers are fickle and aren't always repeat customers, so "we" (consumers) need to do our part and remember when folks do the right thing.