RXV Brakes "Squishy"

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by bradpinkston

I replaced the rear wheels with the stock wheels and it seems to be very normal compared to the new configuration.

Would doing the controller speed upgrade on the Danaher help this? What about making it worse?

Any references to how to do the Curtis controller swap?

Higher speed will make the braking issue worse.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ocumented.html

[bradpinkston]

So, do I understand correctly that there is no easy option to improve braking on this cart configuration with the Danaher controller and 23" tires?

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by bradpinkston

So, do I understand correctly that there is no easy option to improve braking on this cart configuration with the Danaher controller and 23" tires?

The easiest option is to replace your 23" tires with 20.5" tires.

Other than installing a front disc brake kit to add aftermarket brakes. Regen braking puts power back into the battery pack, which adds to range. Aftermarket brakes do not. But that is really the only other option.

When I bump up the performance of a Curtis RXV, I bump up the performance of the regen braking to match. Unfortunately, there was no incentive to hack Danaher controllers like there was with Curtis. If the Danaher RXV controllers were still in production, it might have been a worthwhile cause. I did buy a CAN Bus interface with the intent to do it, but a lack of available controllers to practice on was the deciding factor in the end.

[bradpinkston]

I'm trying to decide on downgrading the tires, or just dealing with the braking performance until the controller dies and I can replace it.

The 23" tires look good and are what I intended to do before being faced with this issue, so I'd like to keep them.

How much should I expect to spend on a Curtis controller?

[BobBoyce]

$500 on eBay from FSIP. You don't have to send a core. I was told they only pay $25 for cores anyways.

[bradpinkston]

How much were the harness parts you reference in your write up?

Should I consider the Navitas 600 amp instead?

Thanks again for all the help. I’m planning to replace the tires with 20”, but want to have a plan for when the controller burns out.


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[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by bradpinkston

How much were the harness parts you reference in your write up?

Should I consider the Navitas 600 amp instead?

Thanks again for all the help. I’m planning to replace the tires with 20”, but want to have a plan for when the controller burns out.

I think I spent about $35 for the connectors and terminals + shipping to convert 3 RXV harnesses. But I have a commercial account with the supplier, so I get a discount.

I really don't want to bash the Navitas, because am so looking forward to it improving as they get going with it. But at this point, why spend 2 or 3 times the price for a controller that currently cannot match the performance of a reprogrammed stock Curtis 235 Amp RXV controller, which can deliver up to 705 Amps of 3 phase power to the motor, without even exceeding its rating. E-Z-GO throttled back the performance for liability and warranty concerns. The closest you can get is 60% to 70% of its rating. We actually have to dial acceleration down from max to prevent an RXV from doing wheelies or breaking things when you romp the go pedal on pavement.

Bob

[bradpinkston]

Thanks Bob. I guess I was looking at prices for the whole harness.


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[BobBoyce]

Currently, E-Z-GOs online store is broken for the most part. If you're lucky to have a part come up in a browse or search, you click add to cart and it comes up with "Oops. sku not found" about 95% of the time. I've bought harnesses from them before, but invariably, they kept sending Danaher harnesses when I specifically ordered a Curtis harness. They were always making mistakes, sending wrong parts, ect. I guess I complained too much about their online store because they decided to "fix" it, so most of the carts are not even listed for parts searches anymore. If you do get a new harness, you may need an adapter cable for the motor speed sensor. They gave the connector a sex change.

[jkredman]

I did a Danaher to Curtis 350 AMP conversion this past winter. I started out wanting to try the Danaher upgrade route and immediately ran into 2 issues:

The Danaher is limited to roughly 235 to 250 amps, not really enough to materially improve things, and the Danaher programmers are no longer available.

So I did the curtis 350 Amp conversion.

BobBoyce has a post with pictures and good instructions, which I believe he referenced in a prior comment.

You'll probably have to buy the ezgo conversion kit, and it has very good instructions except for 1 item.

At one point you have to splice into a white wire. What they don't tell is that there are 2 white wires in the harness. You need to splice into the white wire that runs from the motor to the front of the cart. NOT the wire that runs from the MOTOR to the CONNECTOR that plugs into the controller. (I made that mistake.)

Also my tires are low profile DOT approved tires on roughly 14 in wheels because I run my cart on the street in our cart approved community, and on the golf course.

That said, I'm extremely pleased and the first time I stepped on the throttle after the conversion and reprogramming, I popped a wheelie. (Don't recommend that. Back hurt for 2 days.)