2010 ezgo rxv thought it was the motor brake

[Jlange75]

My ezgo RXV cart will do nothing. Replaced the motor brake And now it seems like the solenoid just double clicks even after I hit the gas pedal it does nothing. I have 54 V as a battery pack when I turn the solenoid on the opposite side of the solenoid has 52.8 but double clicks. Any help

[Jlange75]

Update. Also pull the motor break off the cart left a plug-in brake is not releasing

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Jlange75

Update. Also pull the motor break off the cart left a plug-in brake is not releasing

It must be mounted and connected in order to pass motor twist test. If you replaced the motor brake with the wrong type for the year of RXV, it will fail the test even if mounted. Not all motor brakes are the same!

A 2010 RXV has a Danaher controller. You MUST use an OEM motor brake on an RXV with a Danaher controller. If you bought a HD (Heavy Duty) Motor Brake, it has a lower impedance that causes it to draw too much current. That will cause it to fail the current draw part of the Motor Brake test. This is an OEM Motor Brake...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/301992451277

These OEM Motor Brakes will work on all RXVs. As long as you do NOT overtighten the mounting bolts, which can cause premature failure. Only tighten enough to fully flatten the lock washers...

Bob

[usgicollector]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

It must be mounted and connected in order to pass motor twist test. If you replaced the motor brake with the wrong type for the year of RXV, it will fail the test even if mounted. Not all motor brakes are the same!

A 2010 RXV has a Danaher controller. You MUST use an OEM motor brake on an RXV with a Danaher controller. If you bought a HD (Heavy Duty) Motor Brake, it has a lower impedance that causes it to draw too much current. That will cause it to fail the current draw part of the Motor Brake test. This is an OEM Motor Brake...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/301992451277

These OEM Motor Brakes will work on all RXVs. As long as you do NOT overtighten the mounting bolts, which can cause premature failure. Only tighten enough to fully flatten the lock washers...

Bob

Set torque wrench between 53 to 65 in. lbs (6-8 Nm) and tighten screws be sure not to over tighten.

[nickdalzell1]

a faint 'click click!' and nothing indicates 'drive fault' error code usually caused by bad controller, but can also be a bad charge receptacle, or the 'black block' that goes the the positive battery main (B+) from the charge receptacle has been broken or replaced with a standard ring terminal. If it has the small solenoid with the two small activation wires hard wired in (not the newer larger one with the smaller wires attached with smaller ring terminals and a label like 'thrombetta') it might have failed also. We fixed a few not long a go exhibiting a drive fault condition that ended up having that smaller solenoid (which I wasn't aware they even used still on 2010s but obviously they did) and it was failed.

That's all I can give you based on the post, you're really guessing at best though without the diagnostic handheld.

A Drive fault error will prevent motor brake release whether the motor brake is on or off the motor. a car exhibiting this will not even do the twist test. it just goes 'click click!' and that's it. if the Danahar handheld is connected the errors list will show 'Drive Fault'.