Batteries? Or Delta Q Charger?

[jkredman]

Bob, CGTech; Need some info from guys smarter than I am.

This is my 2010, modified RXV.

Just played 9 holes. SOC showing 50% charge. Plugged in charger. Light on cart glows solid green. Light on charger is dark.

Pack voltage is 49.7 Volts.

Batteries are 2013 Trojan T-1275.

I have the parts, (sans 8 Volt batteries) to convert the cart from 4 - 12 Volt batteries to 6 - 8 Volt batteries. Was just waiting for a little warmer weather when we’re playing more.

Do you think my batteries are so far gone that the Delta Q won’t charge them any more? Or has my charger failed?

Gonna charge them individually over the next day or so and see what that does. But at 49.7 on the pack I’m surprised at my Delta Q.

Please advise!!!!


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[sigfla45]

I just picked up my Delta Q and it rattled like a jar of marbles. I am thinking new charger is in order.

[Fairtax4me]

Make sure the pins in the charger receptacle are clean and make sure the wires are clean coming out of the back. Also make sure the wire terminals at the pack + and - where the charge receptacle wires connect are clean and tight.

Also if you leave the charger plugged into the wall all the time, try unplugging it for a few minutes.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by jkredman

Bob, CGTech; Need some info from guys smarter than I am.

This is my 2010, modified RXV.

Just played 9 holes. SOC showing 50% charge. Plugged in charger. Light on cart glows solid green. Light on charger is dark.

Pack voltage is 49.7 Volts.

Batteries are 2013 Trojan T-1275.

I have the parts, (sans 8 Volt batteries) to convert the cart from 4 - 12 Volt batteries to 6 - 8 Volt batteries. Was just waiting for a little warmer weather when we’re playing more.

Do you think my batteries are so far gone that the Delta Q won’t charge them any more? Or has my charger failed?

Gonna charge them individually over the next day or so and see what that does. But at 49.7 on the pack I’m surprised at my Delta Q.

Please advise!!!!

I would suspect the charger, if all of the connections are good. It should turn on with the pack at 49.7 and take it to float voltage.

[jkredman]

And the verdict is....

Charger!

I charged each battery individually for 1 hour.

At the end of the night the pack voltage was at 50.9 and the SOC was showing full charge.

Yes their 5 year old batteries, however I don’t need to replace them yet....


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[catmcaw]

I had a set of t-1275 last for 8 years and when it came time to replace them I went with another set of the same.

[jkredman]

Yeah, the batteries are fine.

Today, for grins, since my 12 volt charger is older and only understands the timer, I charged each battery an additional 15 to 20 minutes this morning. (20 minutes or until I could smell something which ever came first. The one that smelled is the 1 of the 4 that I already know to be the weakest.)

Afterwards Pack voltage from my DVM is 51.2 - a full charge. The SOC indicated 51.0 to 51.2 and that they were fully charged.

Battery Pete had a refurb Powerwise for $238. I ordered it.



I do have one comment though:

I opened up my existing charger to see if there was a relay board or something that could be replaced. I found the whole thing was soldered to 2 boards - INCLUDING THE FUSES.

Obviously EZGO sees these things as consumable or expendable.

Kinda real dumb if you ask me.....


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[nickdalzell1]

Yamaha does it too on the newer Drive chargers. I despise non-repairability and disposable crap. There's already enough E-waste. What they used before on the cars was far superior than what is going on today. Ferro-resonant FTW!

Once I tried to solder in a fuse holder to bypass the (blown) solder in glass fuses, and I managed to get one going out of 15. The rest just cremated the fuses I placed in the holder indicating dead short somewhere. I really can't stand the QE or the newer SC-48 (that one even has a vent to let the smoke out when it fails, so even EZGO knows they're junk as they design the **** things with smoke vents)

QEs are best at exploding/smoking themselves when 1) plugged in during a thunderstorm--#1 cause I've dealt with. and 2) for some reason when plugged into a GFCI. for some reason the way a GFCI checks for leakage makes the QEs run very hot. We even EOL'd one just plugging it into our outlet in the cart storage barn which we were unaware had a GFCI at the time, once we found out the charger already flashed 6 reds. I think what happens is the GFCI trips and the cart backfeeds the DC side, blows that fuse and takes components out with it.

[jkredman]

[QUOTE=nickdalzell1;1577824}for some reason when plugged into a GFCI. for some reason the way a GFCI checks for leakage makes the QEs run very hot. We even EOL'd one just plugging it into our outlet in the cart storage barn which we were unaware had a GFCI at the time, once we found out the charger already flashed 6 reds. I think what happens is the GFCI trips and the cart backfeeds the DC side, blows that fuse and takes components out with it.[/QUOTE]


Too hot to touch? Or just a warm feeling?

Yes my old charger was plugged into a GFCI Plug, and so is the refurbished one.




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[nickdalzell1]

They always run warm anyway (QEs) and heat kills them (ironically enough EZGO failed to see fit to install a fan like Yamaha at least did) and whatever goes on in a GFCI that tests a circuit for a ground fault seems to make them run hotter than normal (can't touch it without burning your hand--almost as if it were a polarized plug plugged in backwards with a cheater plug) But ultimately what happens in my experience at the shop (which we swapped out all the GFCIs with regular outlets as a result--EOL'd three QEs) is the GFCI trips and while it's plugged in the cart it somehow gets backfed DC volts and EZGO didn't seem to put any diodes inside to prevent that and it blows the DC output fuse but not before cooking some components, namely a few FETs before it does so. So you get either six reds, or nothing at all, or the five initial red/green test flashes and nothing after.

There are two glass fuses with tape over them that are soldered into the board. one for AC input and one for DC output. Usually one or both are open circuit. You can attempt to solder in a fuse holder to the leads and place a few automotive blade fuses in, but most likely it will instantly cremate the fuses. These chargers really hate dirty electricity which is very common around here.

Lately we are seeing a different and more common failure mode, where it flashes green as normal but is clicking off and on inside, indicating a relay failing to stay closed or failing on the contacts. The SC48s and 'wavy fin' later model QEs are doing this a lot.