Broken shackle mount extrusion

[Jim C]

I have a set of wood ramps for loading the buggy in and out of the truck. As you know its very important with only 2wd to secure the ramps when loading because once half way on the back tires can spin the ramp off.
But I've unloaded many times with out securing the ramps, until this past wknd. I have now decided it is a must to secure them when unloading also. I don't know what happend but it came off, drove my hitch extension into the concrete drive and apperantly also broke the shackle mount welds on both sides.

This extrusion is welded to the bottom of the I-beam frame. It doesn't appear that it can be rewelded without disassembling the body and everything on it (canopy, rear seat, extra batteries, hitch).

Have you seen this repaired without all this headache?

I'm thinking of welding a flat piece to it with an angle brace and bolting it back to the frame. Doing it this way should be quite stronger than it currently is/was.

[Jim C]

Originally Posted by lockman1

Sorry Jim, I had a couple beers last night!
you know the old saying..."Instant... ummm... wise guy, Just add alcohol"

thedog9's suggestion would be the only way I would fix it,
Just remember to disconect the batteries and remove the controller before welding!

O.K.... time take it back to the electric CC section.

I was aware of disconnecting the batteries but have never heard of removing the controller to weld.

[Colbyntx]

Can you post some pics? Glad you are OK. I have seen people doing this a thousand times with a buggie, 4-wheeler, mowers ect and it only takes the ramps slipping one time to teach us a lesson. I broke down and bought a 15' trailer with a drop gate for that reason. It turns out to be cheaper in the long run vs injury and damage. Bet you don't do that again!

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by Jim C

I was aware of disconnecting the batteries but have never heard of removing the controller to weld.

Being that the controller is attached to the frame, (in one way or another)
and you have to connect the negative side of the welder to the frame to weld... Hmmmm...

I'm just saying "it's better to be safe... then sorry"

I don't have a problem if someone corrects me if I'm wrong!
(or "overprotective" of your D&D 500 amp controller)

my .02

[Jim C]

What I'm thinking is getting it back in place and welding it, then welding the brace in place. All this with out removal of the body.

[thedog9]

Actually.I misunderstood what was broken on your cart.I have repaired some that the frame itself broke away with the shackle still welded to it.For some reason,even in your photo,you can see there are slots in the frame extrusion.The ones I repaired broke at those slots.Sounds like you have a plan to get yours fixed.You're right to watch the heat generated by welding.The aluminum will transfer that heat,and damage body componets,spacers,bushings etc.I unhook everything to.I just won't chance frying sombody elses stuff(I realize you are fixing your cart).Let us know how it works.

[Colbyntx]

Man, that's a heck of a brake! If you can't weld it or don't trust it after you fix it, you can pick up a scrap DS for $100 bucks or so and just swap everything to the mew frame.

[Jim C]

Originally Posted by Colbyntx

Man, that's a heck of a brake! If you can't weld it or don't trust it after you fix it, you can pick up a scrap DS for $100 bucks or so and just swap everything to the mew frame.

Whoa, and Scotty thought I'd been drinkin. I'd drive it like that for a long time before I swapped everything over to a scrap frame. Heck I don't even want to take anything off to have to fix it. Besides you won't likely find a scrap DS around here for a hundred bucks.

[4vertical]

for the hour or so it would take i would pull the body and inner fender. i think you will spend less time in the long run vs trying to work around it all. plus it will be much easier to clean and manuver the welding torch/gun around.

just my .02

-Aaron

[Jim C]

Originally Posted by 4vertical

for the hour or so it would take i would pull the body and inner fender. i think you will spend less time in the long run vs trying to work around it all. plus it will be much easier to clean and manuver the welding torch/gun around.

just my .02

-Aaron

Hour my rear.

First the rear seat configuration would have to be removed, then the hitch I built would probably need to be removed, then the pair of batteries in the bag well would have to go, all that before I could even think about removing the body. And then do it all in reverse. **** I'm gett'n tired just typ'n it. Oh and the rear legs for the top to.

I had been wanting to get the gas and valves for my welder so I could weld aluminum on the rare occasion I needed it, but in gathering a material list of what I needed I just found out that my Hobart handler 125 can be upgraded for shielding gas but isn't meant to weld aluminum. Guess I'll have to upgrade to the 140.

Anyway took it to a friend who is an aluminum fabricator he welded it up with the extra brace in all of about 2 min ea side. We did remove the wheels so he could get his gun in there.

I think this will hold pretty good if it don't I can always remove all the crap and do the inside of it.

Thanks for the razzing and input anyway.