Pipe for Cable Runs to keep things clean?

[buddylindsey]

I am still planning my cart conversion. I plan to do an IQ conversion on my 99 carryall.

I want to take it down the frame to clean and rebuild. Basically make it brand new again.

I will be using this on my farm so it will quite regularly drive through mud. I was wondering about doing aluminum pipe for various electrical runs where it might be exposed to getting hit by mud. That way I can just power wash it off.

Or are there other things I can do for protection and easier cleaning?


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[Capt. Lenny]

Plastic conduit might be a good option. You can also bend/shape it using a heat gun.

[scottyb]

Sounds good in theory but if water gets in the pipes it will be worse than no protection at all.

[meimk]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Sounds good in theory but if water gets in the pipes it will be worse than no protection at all.

That's the same thought I had. The conventional plastic wire split loom provides some measure of impact / abrasion resistance while still able to drain water if needed. I know I wouldn't be comfortable with metal conduit in an application where branches, rocks, etc could cause it to pinch on the wiring inside. Just my 2 cents worth.

[CP241]

I’d just use split loom. Mud doesn’t hurt wires. Neither does water. If you’re concerned about connections, use dielectric grease in the connectors to keep water out of them. But the wires themselves along the run of the cart, water and mud won’t hurt anything. Otherwise they wouldn’t run wires underneath cars either… and cars are exposed to WAY more than a golf cart ever will be.

[Volt_Ampere]

Most cart manufacturers use split loom to protect wires going from front to back. I use it on my mods too. Cheap and easy to use. You can put a small tie wrap on the ends or just use electrical tape to wrap the ends.

[buddylindsey]

Thanks for the replies. scottyb’s concern was my own as to why I asked.

Was also trying to avoid split loom if I can as it seems to break down. I have worked on a number of cars and it seems to just fall apart so I just don’t have good experience. That said it wasn’t brand new either lol and probably crap too.

[Fairtax4me]

Wire loom breaks down with age. Usually takes about 20 years, but the cheaper stuff make start falling apart in 5-10. Majority of the time the wire loom that is falling apart is what has been constantly exposed to heat and/or oil or fuel. None of which are a large concern on a typical electric golf cart.
Wiring should be contained in loom to keep it from straying and keep small sticks from getting hooked in the individual wires. It also helps to wrap the loom with 2-3 wraps of vinyl tape every 8 -12 inches to keep the loom from opening up.

New wiring should be run on the inside upper half of the frame rails and secured with zip ties every so often. The Club Car frames have holes that are there from the factory specifically for zip ties to secure the wiring.
When you get into the battery box route the wiring on top of the frame rails and use zip ties to secure in place.



If the cart has an MCOR throttle your main harness to the throttle box and dash will have to run on the outside of the passenger side frame rail. Just secure it up as high as you can on the rail, and it will be fine.

Also since you’ll be doing some work on the cart, take a second to notice all the things that are exposed under the cart. Wiring, pedal parts, brake cables, throttle mechanism, etc. Things that are generally NOT bullet proof. Keep in mind when you operate your cart that ITS NOT A BULLDOZER, it’s not indestructible, and use some common sense when driving through the woods or over obstacles.

[CP241]

If you want to be sure, you can wrap the harness with friction tape inside the wire loom. Or just use friction tape and skip the wire loom.

Many of the oem automotive companies are just wrapping exterior harnesses with friction tape now. Especially engine harnesses, due to the wire loom breaking down with heat and chemical exposure. The friction tape holds up great. Tesa makes a good friction tape, that’s what I usually use. but 3m and others are out there as well.

[buddylindsey]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Wire loom breaks down with age. Usually takes about 20 years, but the cheaper stuff make start falling apart in 5-10. Majority of the time the wire loom that is falling apart is what has been constantly exposed to heat and/or oil or fuel. None of which are a large concern on a typical electric golf cart.
Wiring should be contained in loom to keep it from straying and keep small sticks from getting hooked in the individual wires. It also helps to wrap the loom with 2-3 wraps of vinyl tape every 8 -12 inches to keep the loom from opening up.

New wiring should be run on the inside upper half of the frame rails and secured with zip ties every so often. The Club Car frames have holes that are there from the factory specifically for zip ties to secure the wiring.
When you get into the battery box route the wiring on top of the frame rails and use zip ties to secure in place.



If the cart has an MCOR throttle your main harness to the throttle box and dash will have to run on the outside of the passenger side frame rail. Just secure it up as high as you can on the rail, and it will be fine.

Also since you’ll be doing some work on the cart, take a second to notice all the things that are exposed under the cart. Wiring, pedal parts, brake cables, throttle mechanism, etc. Things that are generally NOT bullet proof. Keep in mind when you operate your cart that ITS NOT A BULLDOZER, it’s not indestructible, and use some common sense when driving through the woods or over obstacles.

Thanks for the info. I think that is the approach I'll take. My cart is all torn up how I bought it so I can't compare how it should be, but that picture really really helps. Thank you.

I am going to go with a scottyb IQ conversion kit so it will move away from the current to a hall electric pedal.

Originally Posted by CP241

If you want to be sure, you can wrap the harness with friction tape inside the wire loom. Or just use friction tape and skip the wire loom.

Many of the oem automotive companies are just wrapping exterior harnesses with friction tape now. Especially engine harnesses, due to the wire loom breaking down with heat and chemical exposure. The friction tape holds up great. Tesa makes a good friction tape, that’s what I usually use. but 3m and others are out there as well.

Thanks for the ideas and brands, I am going to research and check it out.