98 ez go 36 volt car

[seasidepcb]

This 98 ez go 36 volt car has a new w/r solenoid.

It will usually run fine. Sometimes it will not. Let it set awhile and off she goes.

Could it be a bad solenoid or controller issue or something else?

Appreciate any assistance.

Roy

[yurtle]

Mine did the same, sometimes randomly. I finally tracked it down to an intermittent connection on the 4 pin Molex connector, shown here. It connects the throttle box to the cart's wiring harness. Located between controller and FNR on series carts. For sepex carts, ignore the FNR, as yours is by your leg or on the dash.

Try cleaning it, and if it solves the problem - or even if it doesn't - cut it off and splice or solder then heat shrink.

[yurtle]

If that's not it, intermittent problems are difficult to solve, especially by remote control.

First tell us drive type:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html

Then tell us pack voltage, before during and after problem.

[orangeman6]

Does it usually go on the first trip if the day, then shut down? Couldn’t tell for sure by your description of the problem.

Was thermal shutdown a thing on 98’s?

[seasidepcb]

Hey yurtle,

it is a series car w/ battery pack voltage of 37.8 and it has not failed since your last email.

What do you think?

[yurtle]

I'd do the Molex fix. If it ain't a problem now, it will be.

37.8 volts is low, but shouldn't cause your problem, based on symptoms. I'd charge them now, and after every use.

[seasidepcb]

Hey yurtle,

Cleaned the 4 posts and now all we get is the solenoid clicking. Will not engage motor.

What do you think?


Thank

Roy

[yurtle]

I'd eliminate the Molex. Two wires are the microswitch, which controls the solenoid. The other two wires are the ITS, which tells the controller how fast to go. If any of the four wires has a bad connection, it doesn't do what it's supposed to, in your case now, tell the controller to go.

Since it used to be intermittent, and now doesn't run, and the only thing you messed with was the Molex, I'd blame that.

It could still be the actual ITS and/or controller. Here's a test to check while it's not running:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...e-testing.html

[seasidepcb]

Not sure what you mean by eliminating the "molex". Bypassing it or replacing?

Your help is very much appreciated!!!


Thanks,

roy

[noxin]

Remove the connector entirely and splice the wires together instead, so that you don't need to worry about intermittent connections anymore.