EZGO Series Controller - Baffled

[2ronto]

Sorry...rebuilt many times and no SN plate to be found...am trying to post pictures today

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by 2ronto

Sorry...rebuilt many times and no SN plate to be found...am trying to post pictures today

I have heard that before. I have rebuild many carts, I'm curious what part of a rebuild requires removal of the ID tag in the glove box?

[2ronto]

Sorry ScottyB...no SN plate to be found...posting pics shortly

[JohnnieB]

41.2V means the batteries are on charge or haven't been off charge very long and there is still a surface charge, so be sure to measure battery pack voltage right before taking other voltage measurements.

With the F/R in neutral, the controller isn't powered up, so the 1.24V between B- and M- is phantom reading due to the high input impedance of a DVM some current leakage flowing someplace. Nothing to worry about.

With the F/R in either F or R and the pedal up, you should read about 3 to 5 volts less than the battery pack voltage between B- and M- because there is a 250 Ohm resistor across the solenoid contacts. (The resistor pre-charges the filter capacitors in the controller so the solenoid contacts aren't hit with a huge rush of Amps as they are closing and arc)

When the solenoid first closes, FULL battery pack voltage should be measured between B- and M- because the resistor is shorted out by the solenoid contact.

When the pedal is pressed, the voltage between B- and M- should decrease more as pedal is pushed further and reaching near zero when pedal hits floor, or slightly before it touches the floor.
If not, the most likely suspects are either a bad throttle system or a bad controller.

If it is the controller, I'd go with an Alltrax AXE400 or something similar.
Cart won't go any faster, but it will have more torque and be less likely to burn out again.

[2ronto]

Thanks JohnnieB;

Voltage check across B-/M- battery voltage less 1.5v when solenoid comes in (have a 300 Ohm resistor)...further pressing accel takes voltage up to full battery voltage, not down. Can I check throttle coil? It has 14 Ohms across it with no wires attached.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by 2ronto

..................
1. Voltage check across B-/M- battery voltage less 1.5v when solenoid comes in (have a 300 Ohm resistor)...
2. further pressing accel takes voltage up to full battery voltage, not down.
3. Can I check throttle coil? It has 14 Ohms across it with no wires attached.

1. If your DVM leads are between B- and M-, the voltage should be less than Battery pack voltage before solenoid closes and FULL battery pack voltage after it closes and before the throttle plunger enters the ITS sensor. If not, something is wrong.
Remove the resistor from across the solenoid contacts while troubleshooting and replace it after the cart is fixed.

2. What you are describing is the way the voltage between B+ and M- reacts when pedal is pushed.

3. Yes. Measure voltage between B- and Pin-2 (Black wire).
After solenoid clicks, it should be between 14.0 and 15.0 volts
If so, measure voltage between B- and Pin-1 (White wire)
When solenoid first clicks, the voltage should be between 0.45 and 0.53 volts.
As pedal is slowly pressed to floor, the voltage should smoothly increase to 1.5V or above.

4. The ITS sensor coil is a very long length of very fine gauge wire and I believe the Ohmic value should read in the 200 to 400 Ohm range. but as long as it passes the checkout procedure outlined above, it is fine.
FWIW: An Ohmmeter puts out DC and the ITS works on AC (Pulsating DC actually, which acts like AC when sent through an inductor)