Power Surging?

[Ribber]

Originally Posted by Ribber

I don't get any movement with green to white. Looking at the diagram, the white and black wire join? So, you're essentially bypassing the resistor by connecting green to white?
I will check the voltage on pin #1 tomorrow, check the connector on white wire, and report back.

Yes I have 49-50V at #1 pin on controller when pushing pedal. Looking at diagram, that means I'm getting power from MCOR?

Still no movement green to white and controller LED blinks red 3 times.

Green to black works, controller LED green, but cart is slow. Half speed I guess.

[Sergio]

I just looked at the wiring diagram for the AXE controller on Alltrax website and they either have the colors for the MCOR reversed or the MCOR drawn incorrectly.

Try leaving the Green and White wires connected, but wire the controller as follows:

Terminal #1 - Red wire
Terminal #2 - Yellow wire
Terminal #3 - Green wire

I assume when You have the Green and Black wires together the controller blinks Green 7 times at power up, right?

[Ribber]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I just looked at the wiring diagram for the AXE controller on Alltrax website and they either have the colors for the MCOR reversed or the MCOR drawn incorrectly.

Try leaving the Green and White wires connected, but wire the controller as follows:

Terminal #1 - Red wire
Terminal #2 - Yellow wire
Terminal #3 - Green wire

I assume when You have the Green and Black wires together the controller blinks Green 7 times at power up, right?

Correct. LED blinks 7 times then constant green with the green and black connected, but half speed. Green to white, LED blinks 7 times then 3 red blinks, no go.

So, out of frustration thinking the resistor and/or the splice was the culprit, I cut the resistor out and straight wired black to black (Totally eliminated the white wire and resistor). Hope I didn't really screw up by doing that.
But, no go in either direction and still get 3 red LED blinks?
The reverse buzzer sounds, solenoid clicks every single pedal push, and I have 50V at #1 controller pin with pedal pushed. I'll try swapping the #2 & #3 pins on controller.

[Ribber]

Originally Posted by Ribber

Correct. LED blinks 7 times then constant green with the green and black connected, but half speed. Green to white, LED blinks 7 times then 3 red blinks, no go.

So, out of frustration thinking the resistor and/or the splice was the culprit, I cut the resistor out and straight wired black to black (Totally eliminated the white wire and resistor). Hope I didn't really screw up by doing that.
But, no go in either direction and still get 3 red LED blinks?
The reverse buzzer sounds, solenoid clicks every single pedal push, and I have 50V at #1 controller pin with pedal pushed. I'll try swapping the #2 & #3 pins on controller.

Swapped the yellow and green (#2 & #3 pin), no go. Still have the 3 red LED blinks.
I am so stumped. Why would the cart move with green to black (at half speed anyway), then not move after removing the resistor and white wire? The white wire just bypasses the resistor, right? At least that what the diagram shows. Pictures show resistor/splice and the black/black straight wire.

[Sergio]

You have the Green wire connected directly to the Black wire (no resistor or micro-switch), right?

[Ribber]

Originally Posted by Sergio

You have the Green wire connected directly to the Black wire (no resistor or micro-switch), right?

Correct. Green to black, no resistor, no white wire, no micro switch.

Keep in mind, green to black the cart worked great (at half speed) and controller LED had no red flashes.
It just doesn't make sense to me.

[Sergio]

Check the output voltage of the MCOR, disconnect the Yellow wire from the controller throttle terminal (#2 or #3).

Measure the voltage on the Yellow wire from Pedal Up to Down.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

This doesn't make any sense why the cart wouldn't run with a non-modified throttle signal going to the controller. Have you physically checked the throttle signal with a multimeter? Unplug the green and yellow wires from the controller pins 2 and 3 and insert the leads of your multimeter into the ends of those wires. Post the results of your throttle signal all the way from 0 throttle to 100 percent throttle. With the MCOR4 you should see around 6500 ohms to 1100 ohms. Set the meter to 20k ohms.

[Sergio]

David, he checked the top half of the MCOR on post #3 and the range was not off.

Looking at the diagram for the AXE posted on Alltrax site, it looks like they use the throttle signal much like the modern Club Car controllers (0-5v) instead of the DCX approach of a plain 5k-0Ω rheostat.

I think it is either missing the low side of the MCOR or the high side is not connected to the correct throttle "supply" signal on the controller (#2 or #3 ???).

The voltage range on the yellow MCOR wire should be close to 0v at pedal up if everything is wired correctly.

[Ribber]

Originally Posted by Sergio

David, he checked the top half of the MCOR on post #3 and the range was not off.

Looking at the diagram for the AXE posted on Alltrax site, it looks like they use the throttle signal much like the modern Club Car controllers (0-5v) instead of the DCX approach of a plain 5k-0Ω rheostat.

I think it is either missing the low side of the MCOR or the high side is not connected to the correct throttle "supply" signal on the controller (#2 or #3 ???).

The voltage range on the yellow MCOR wire should be close to 0v at pedal up if everything is wired correctly.

Checked the voltage at yellow wire (from MCOR) at controller.
Pedal up is 0 or .1
Pedal fully depressed is 8.3 or 8.4
This is with the terminal unplugged from controller and positive lead of meter inside the terminal.

Is the resistor/splice from black and white wire 'needed'? I cut it out completely. It's the only thing that changed.
I can't figure why the cart ran flawlessly bypassing the micro switch with the resistor in the black wire, but when I removed the resistor it won't move.

About ready to set this cart on fire and watch it burn!