New batteries and now no power

[JRantz]

I get nothing at the soleniod when the gas is pressed.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by JRantz

I get nothing at the soleniod when the gas is pressed.

I know that.

Can you figure out if you which polarity you are not getting, the + or the - ?

[JohnnieB]

Unlike series carts, resistor carts and DCS carts, the solenoid activation is done by the controller in a PDS cart and to get the controller to activate the solenoid there are 5 switches have to be closed.

1. Reed Switch = Closed or bypassed
2. Run/Tow Switch = Run
3. Key Switch = On
4. F/R Switch = F or R
5. Pedal Switch = Pedal depressed.

Before checking those out individually, let's go back to the basics.

Place Run/Tow Switch on controller cover to Tow. (Hopefully you did this before replacing batteries - or the controller is probably trash)

Remove controller cover. (4 bolts - 2 top & 2 bottom - the bottom ones are hard to find. Also, cover has seal, may have to use putty knife to gently separate from heatsink)

Connect you DVM's Negative test lead (Black) to the Negative pole on the Right-Rear Battery as shown in Attch-1.

Touch DVM's Positive to Positive pole of Right-Front battery. This is battery pack voltage and should be 38.2V or slightly above since these are new batteries.

Next, measure voltage on both main terminals of solenoid. The one with the cable leading to battery pack should read battery pack voltage and the one with cable leading to controller should read about 3-5V less.

If those voltages are correct, check for battery pack voltage at J1-Pin 5 and at J1-Pin 4. This can be done with J1 plugged into controller or unplugged since both are voltages going to controller. Location of J1 and pin-out are shown on Attch-2

If battery pack voltage is present of both Pin 4 & 5, the probability of the controller being defective is high, but I would still check the remaining four individual switches (voltage at Pin-4 eliminates Reed Switch) and solenoid coil with an Ohmmeter.

[JRantz]

So I have 38.6V at both pins 4 and 5

Also, I am getting 38.5V from J4 pin 2 and pin 1 with the pedal depressed. and same with the key switch and the run/tow switches.

Ive got 15.6 mOhms across the solenoid when the neg (DVM) is on the blue and pos in the yellow.. and nothing when the DVM is reversed.

To me this sounds like the switches are good but i will need a new controller and solenoid?

The way I am checking the voltage is by plut the neg (DVM) to the neg on the battery and the positive to the pin or terminal., Let me know if that is not the correct way of doing it.

[JRantz]

Scotty, how would I check the polarity.. sorry I am not the best when it come to electrical stuff

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by JRantz

1. So I have 38.6V at both pins... so it looks like i will need a new controller?

2. Ive got 15.6 mOhms across the solenoid when the neg (DVM) is on the blue and pos in the yellow.. and nothing when the DVM is reversed.

1. I take it you have 38.6V at one of the big terminals on the solenoid, slightly less on the other as well as 38.6 on both J1-Pin4 & 5.

I'd check the four switches with an ohmmeter first.
Put Run/Tow Switch in Tow and unplug the molex plugs. The J#'s and P#'s are on the schematic.

2. Unless J1 is unplugged or the yellow and/or blue wire is disconnected. you are reading the solenoid driver circuit inside the controller in parallel with the solenoid coil. Also, there may be a diode connected across the coil terminals on the solenoid. Remove all wires and any other electrical connections from the two small terminals on the solenoid and measure the coil again.

Should read continuity in both directions. Probably no more the a few hundred ohms.

If "15.6 mOhms" means 15,600,000 Ohms (15.6 Megohms), I think that is too much.

It would be nice if it was just a bad solenoid, but a PDS controller isn't going to last long with those big tires, so I'd start thing about an aftermarket one that can take the load.

[JohnnieB]

You posted while I was typing.

If the DVM negative (Black lead) is attached to negative post on Right-Rear battery, every voltage you read will be Positive.
Your DVM will show a "-" sign before the numbers if the voltage on the Red lead is negative with respect to the black lead (assuming the red and black leads are plugged into the red and black jacks on the meter)

For me, unplugging the molex connectors and checking the various switches with and ohmmeter is best. That way you can observe the switches going from open to closed when they are toggled.

If the switches and solenoid check out ok, I'm about 99.9% sure it is the controller.
I've been troubleshooting too many years to be 100% sure of anything.

[JRantz]

do I measure it across the pins on the plug or the recepticals on the controller?

[JRantz]

ok I have 104.6 ohms across the solenoid

[JRantz]

testing at the pins on the plugs:

for the run/tow switch when in run I get 2-3ohms across P3&P4 and 15-17ohms across P1&P2 but when in tow I dont get anything across either switch.

for the pedal switch I get when not pressed its gives 0.L Mohms (which is what no change fromm when the ohm meter is not connected to anything) and then when the pedal is depressed it reads 000.0 ohms, so the ohm meter recognizes a change but the reading is basicall the same.

for the key switch I get the same thing. When off its 0.L Mohms but when on its between 000.0-000.1 ohms

for the F&R switches, when selected, they get the same readings as well but go to as much as 000.3ohms