slow cart

[sonnysmith]

I have a 2004 PDS ez go 36 volts.
How many things can cause a golf cart like this one to go into limp mode?
I have changed the controller,solenoid, ITS, motor speed sensor( not the magnet) Some time it will runs normal for just a few sec. then shut down.
Just don't know how many things can cause this.
Now before you ask, I have check voltage ,connection. For the short time it runs , it has lots of power. So I don't think it's a voltage problem.

Thanks
Sonny

[JohnnieB]

Put the controller into the diagnostic mode and drive it that way.
Should beep an error code when it misbehaves.

Text at bottom of attached label tells you how to put it into diagnostic mode.

Also check for worn through insulation on F1 & F2 cables where the are routed around batteries.

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB

I tried the mode and I could not get it to give me a code.
I when back and got some more voltage reading that might help.

1. M- and B+ = 19 v.
2. sol. to B- = 37.8 v.
3. controller side of controller =37.4
4.pedal pushed =37.1
5.Meter lead on Neg. pin 1=37.v
p2=0 p3=38 pin 4 =38 p5 =38 p6=37.7 p7 38v p8 =38v p9=38v
p10=36. up and down few 10's never steady.

Black and white wires to motor=12.9 v
a1 and a2=0 volts with pedal pushed or not.

I hope someone can make sense out of this.

Thanks
Sonny

[JohnnieB]

Since you can only troubleshoot intermittent problems while the problem exists, the good news is that the cart is misbehaving most of the time.

First, let me verify some things.

A. You have a stock PDS controller installed.
B. The beeper works.
C. All voltage measurements are made with black test lead attached to battery pack's main Negative terminal.
D. When misbehaving, the cart runs, but runs slowly. (Speed estimate?)
E. There is a pre-charge resistor installed between the two larger terminals on the solenoid.

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

JohnnieB

I tried the mode and I could not get it to give me a code.
I when back and got some more voltage reading that might help.

1. M- and B+ = 19 v. Was pedal pushed? Should be 0V with pedal up and full pack voltage when pedal is down.

2. sol. to B- = 37.8 v. Solenoid has 4 terminals - which one?

3. controller side of controller =37.4 Controller side of solenoid maybe?

4.pedal pushed =37.1 Controller side large terminal on solenoid should go up to pack voltage when pedal is pushed.

5.Meter lead on Neg.
pin 1=37.v p2=0 p3=38 F/R switch is in F. Should have full pack voltage on Pin-1 (Source voltage for F/R) Voltage on Pin-2 is Reverse and on Pin-3 is Forward.

pin 4 =38 p5 =38 Should be full pack voltage 100% of the time, unless reed switch is open (Charger plugged in) then Pin-4 is dead.

p6=37.7 p7 38v Solenoid coil. Pin-7 is voltage source and voltage on Pin-6 is feeding through the coil.

p8 =38v p9=38v Keyswitch. Key is ON.

p10=36. up and down few 10's never steady. Beeper. One side of beeper is connected directly to pack voltage (same source as Pin-5) and the voltage you are measuring on Pin-10 is feeding through the beeper. The beeper sounds when Pin-10 goes low.

Black and white wires to motor=12.9 v F1 and F2 cable going to motor's field windings.

a1 and a2=0 volts with pedal pushed or not. Armature windings. A2 should be full pack voltage when solenoid is energized and 2V to 5V less than full pack voltage when solenoid isn't energized. A1 should be full pack voltage when pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click and decrease to near zero volts as pedal is pushed to floor.

I hope someone can make sense out of this.

Thanks
Sonny

I'm just guessing, but I gotta feeling that you have a throttle issue, so let's check it out.
Attached are how to check it.

[sonnysmith]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Since you can only troubleshoot intermittent problems while the problem exists, the good news is that the cart is misbehaving most of the time.

First, let me verify some things.

A. You have a stock PDS controller installed.
B. The beeper works.
C. All voltage measurements are made with black test lead attached to battery pack's main Negative terminal.
D. When misbehaving, the cart runs, but runs slowly. (Speed estimate?)
E. There is a pre-charge resistor installed between the two larger terminals on the solenoid.



I'm just guessing, but I gotta feeling that you have a throttle issue, so let's check it out.
Attached are how to check it.

First off let me thank you for being on this forum. A lot of us would be lost with out you.
Yes It is a stock PDS. Just my golfing cart.
All voltage was taken with Meter on Neg.
The beeper works, but it's one that sounds like a big truck backing up.
Yes it does run all the time about 3-5 mph.
There is no resistor on the solenoid now. I took it off when I started having trouble.
I will check all the things you ask for and report back.

Thanks again
Sonny

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB

I spent the day trying to get more info.
on number 1. I have pack voltage with pedal up 36.8
2. on the large terminals 36.8
3.36.6 went up to 36.8 pedal pushed
4. all other pins have same voltage 36.8
on A1 pack v. till pedal pushed 18v.
This info. is on ITS
on number 41---ITS 14.7 on number 42----.9 on number 43---2.

0n number 49---36.8

Don't know if this is all you need, if not just let me know.
I have found out If I cycle the run /tow the motor will run at full speed for about 1 to 5 sec. then shut down. I just read a post where someone was having the same problem. they didn't give a cure on the post.
I tried a working controller and ITS with out any change.

Thanks for the Help
sonny

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB

I posted wrong number on ITS.
The first test was 1.4 not 14.7

Sorry

I've looked at to many number.
Thanks
sonny

[JohnnieB]

The pack voltage (36.8V) is only 62% SoC, but that ought to run cart at full speed.

Does your beeper give you a steady tone when in reverse, or an ongoing beep-beep-beep-beep, like the beeper on a truck backing up?
I ask because the beeper may have been replaced and might not work properly in the diagnostic mode.

Yes, the numbers start blending together after you've looked at several of them.
That's why I prefer to take a few specific voltage measurements related to a specific function and analyze them instead of taking random measurements all over the place.

In post#1 you stated "I have changed the controller,solenoid, ITS, motor speed sensor( not the magnet)"
That leaves the high current cables, cart wiring harness, batteries and motor.

Please re-check steps 41, 42 and 43. The 14.7V you originally stated for step-41 was good, but in your last post, you changed it to 1.4V which is bad.

----------
The motor has about 11 years of use on it, so the possibility of worn brushes is pretty high.

[sonnysmith]

johnnieB

I went back over the number today.
41.---11.6
42.----.9
43.-----1.4

I have taken all the wiring from the under side. Could not find any brakes or shorts.
Took all wires off motor to controller. could not find anything wrong.
Took F1 and F2 wires off, nothing wrong I could see.
I still can't see why It runs when I cycle the run/ tow switch. Also it will run as long you are not going full speed.
Do you thinks a motor could run and stop like this? I don't have another motor to try. But if you think this could be a problem, then I will find one.
As I stated in another post, someone had the same type problem a year ago or so, but never posted a cure.
Thanks for all your help.
Sonny

[g9ratrod]

Bad batt. Happened to a ezgo last year new battery's and it was mint again