slow cart

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

johnnieB

I went back over the number today.
41.---11.6
42.----.9
43.-----1.4

I have taken all the wiring from the under side. Could not find any brakes or shorts.
Took all wires off motor to controller. could not find anything wrong.
Took F1 and F2 wires off, nothing wrong I could see.
I still can't see why It runs when I cycle the run/ tow switch. Also it will run as long you are not going full speed.
Do you thinks a motor could run and stop like this? I don't have another motor to try. But if you think this could be a problem, then I will find one.
As I stated in another post, someone had the same type problem a year ago or so, but never posted a cure.
Thanks for all your help.
Sonny

Steps 41 and 43 are out of range.

There are three main parts to the ITS circuit.
1. The ITS sensor in the pedal box.
2. The voltage source in the controller. (J4 Pin-4)
3. The throttle signal decoder in the controller. (J4 Pin-3)
Plus the wiring and in-line connectors connecting the sensor to the controller and the mechanical stuff the moves the plunger (iron slug) in and out of the ITS sensor coil.

With step-41 being less than 14V, steps 42 & 43 aren't going to be valid readings.

Step-41 being out of range indicates the controller is bad. I know you've tried more than one controller, but the controller is the voltage source, so you may have more than one bad controller.

Is there any way you can check the controller(s) in a different cart?

Also, check step-41 after resetting the controller and again when the cart is misbehaving.

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB

test number 41------14.4v
test number 42------.9 v
test number 43------2.8

When motor is running right or wrong the voltage does not change.
the controller is one that was on a working cart. If the controller is bad, then there has to be something causing them to go bad when first turned on.
Now for another question. I have a dcs motor, will it work with a pds cart with a altrax controller??? It says series speed.

Thanks again
Sonny

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

JohnnieB

test number 41------14.4v
test number 42------.9 v
test number 43------2.8

When motor is running right or wrong the voltage does not change.
the controller is one that was on a working cart. If the controller is bad, then there has to be something causing them to go bad when first turned on.
Now for another question. I have a dcs motor, will it work with a pds cart with a altrax controller??? It says series speed.

Thanks again
Sonny

Those voltages are within the nominal range, so the ITS sensor, ITS parts of controller and interconnecting ITS wiring appear to be good.

The controller is being told to put out 100%, so let's measure the voltage to the armature while driving the cart when it is running good and misbehaving.

Connect your voltmeter between the controller's M- (labeled A1 on a PDS controller) and B+ terminals.

Should be about Zero volts when pedal is pushed and full pack voltage when pedal is on floor.

----------
Yes a DCS motor will work in a PDS cart with a programmable Alltrax controller (DCX). The reason I say programmable controller is because the Field Map has to match the motor and a DCS motor uses Map# 3 while a PDS motor uses Map# 4.

[sonnysmith]

Mr. JohnnieB
Here are the test results.
Pedal up ---0
pedal pushed -----28.6 till the motor shuts down to a slower speed.
when it acts up the voltage is only 18.4 volts.

Are we getting closer ??
Thanks
Sonny

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

Mr. JohnnieB
Here are the test results.
Pedal up ---0
pedal pushed -----28.6 till the motor shuts down to a slower speed.
when it acts up the voltage is only 18.4 volts.

Are we getting closer ??
Thanks
Sonny

What is the pack voltage when you get 28.6V between M- and B+?
What is the pack voltage when you get 18.4V between M- and B+?

We are getting closer.

The throttle signal is telling the controller to send full pack voltage to the motor, but the controller might not be doing what it is being told to do.

To confirm, we need to know what the pack voltage is when the controller is putting out less than what is expected between M- and B+.

There appears to be upwards of 10 to 20 volts missing. With a health, fully charged, 36V battery pack, the pack voltage will drop roughly 0.2V for every 100A of current being drawn from it.

So if the pack voltage matches the voltage between M- and B+, there is a battery or amp delivery system problem, if it doesn't there is a controller issue.

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB

I hooked up 2 meters to the cart.
one hooked to the B+ and A1 ----voltage would go up to the 28 or so then motor would shut down, then would stay 18.8.
Hooked the other meter to pos. and neg. ------37.1 when cart is running right the voltage was 36.7to9 volts and did not change when motor shut down to the 18.8 volts. For got to say pack was 37.1 when I started.
Is it normal for controller to reset by flipping the tow/maint. switch???
Johnnie I have another motor. Is it worth trying.

Thanks
Sonny

[Great white north]

I would be looking at new batts.... How old is your batteries ?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

JohnnieB

I hooked up 2 meters to the cart.
one hooked to the B+ and A1 ----voltage would go up to the 28 or so then motor would shut down, then would stay 18.8.
Hooked the other meter to pos. and neg. ------37.1 when cart is running right the voltage was 36.7to9 volts and did not change when motor shut down to the 18.8 volts. For got to say pack was 37.1 when I started.
Is it normal for controller to reset by flipping the tow/maint. switch???
Johnnie I have another motor. Is it worth trying.

Thanks
Sonny

The voltage reading indicate the controller isn't doing what it is being told top do, but I'd go ahead and try a different motor to eliminate that possibility.

Flipping the Run/Tow switch is the normal way to reset the controller.

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB

The mystery is getting larger.
I changed the motor. the motor did not shut down, but would pulsate as it ran.
But before I changed the motor, I put in a new set of new batteries. With no difference. So that problem is out of the equation, as well as the motor.
I will put a new controller in, but I think there is something wrong, that take out some part of the controller. I have tried 3 difference controller 2 rebuilt and one taken off a working PDS cart. Each time I have had the same results.
I'm not sure what I should do. Tomorrow I'm going to take all wire from ITS And replace them. I have all wires that run from key switch to controller out of the wire loom and can't find any bad wires.

Thanks as always.
Sonny

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

JohnnieB

The mystery is getting larger.
I changed the motor. the motor did not shut down, but would pulsate as it ran.
But before I changed the motor, I put in a new set of new batteries. With no difference. So that problem is out of the equation, as well as the motor.
I will put a new controller in, but I think there is something wrong, that take out some part of the controller. I have tried 3 difference controller 2 rebuilt and one taken off a working PDS cart. Each time I have had the same results.
I'm not sure what I should do. Tomorrow I'm going to take all wire from ITS And replace them. I have all wires that run from key switch to controller out of the wire loom and can't find any bad wires.

Thanks as always.
Sonny

Do any or all of the controller still work in a different PDS Cart?

Did you check the F1 & F2 cables for worn insulation?