I think I fried something!!

[PMD3454]

During trouble shooting for my other issue with the cart stopping randomly I found a pair of female connectors under the dash, colors appeared to align with a yellow/brown and an orange to a "dash light" on the wiring diagram. Headlights didn't work so I assumed that was the issue. When I started to plug the yellow/brown to the headlight dash switch I got a significant spark. The other side of this pair of female connectors appeared to be orange, which also aligned with the wiring diagram. Now my cart is dead! I've searched for fuses and found three. One looks like it was put in place to replace the circuit breaker (not sure) which isn't there. That fuse is intact. Second one I found is part of the charging circuit: also ok. Third one is for the cab heater and windshield wiper, which I had already disconnected. That fuse is also intact. Someone please tell me there are other fuses and I didn't fry my controller or computer!! Cart is a 2007 Carryall 2 electric.

BTW, this is my first cart. Bought it at auction a few weeks back, and I'm seriously enjoying this. Have no skills in the controller and computer arena, mechanical engineer, pretty good mechanically, but weak on the electrical side.

[Fairtax4me]

The only Dash light I can think of is the battery warning light, but I don’t know what equipment would be on your cart since it seems some things were definitely added on.

You have a wire diagram? Where do those wires go on the diagram? If they go to the controller... you probably let the magic smoke out.

[NoleFan4Ever]

There is an Orange and a Brown w/white stripe that goes to the amber light and that is triggered by your OBC. There is a Warning Light you may or may not have connected and it has a Yellow w/black stripe and a Pink wire that goes to the controller. If you connected to it, you probably damaged the controller.

[PMD3454]

Confirmed that the orange and brown w/white stripe is connected to the amber dash light with the battery symbol. The other pair, yellow w/black stripe and pink are taped together but weren't connect to anything. The yellow w/black strip is the one that arced when I connected it to the headlight switch. The wiring schematic calls the amber battery light "dash light" and the one with the yellow w/black and pink "warning ight". Apparently this cart does not have a "warning light". The schematic doesn't show anything relative to the light switch or wiring for the lights. I've started reading here and elsewhere on how to confirm that I've fried the controller. Haven't been able to find anything that I can do without test equipment. The solenoid does not engage when the pedal is pressed. Limit switch on pedal does click. Wondering if I should be replacing the relay and or solenoid before doing the $$$ spend on the controller. Hate to spend on the controller without knowing that's the issue. Solving problems by replacing parts runs against my grain. Sure would like to be able to troubleshoot it. Nearest place that works on Club Cars has been terrible to deal with. Can't even get them to return calls on parts that I ordered, so I'm very hesitate to take it there for testing. For now I'll keep an eye here and continue reading on how I might conirm controller is bad.

[PMD3454]

Has anyone used the Alltrex controllers.?On paper it sound like a better approach. Lower cost, better circuit protection, and open protocol via laptop.

Has anyone used the controller refurb services that are out there? I like the idea of having the entire board reviewed and repaired. I've had great experience with refurb computers and printers, and it seems similar. Cost is less than half of new.

Thanks.

[Fairtax4me]

IMO if you have to replace the controller Alltrax is the way to go, but it depends on which controller you have. There are a few systems that Alltrax doesn't make a controller for.

You may want to call David Hicks, Revolution Golf Cars. Talk to him about troubleshooting to verify the controller is damaged. He can recommend the best course for a repair or replacement controller. https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by PMD3454

Has anyone used the Alltrex controllers.?On paper it sound like a better approach. Lower cost, better circuit protection, and open protocol via laptop.

Has anyone used the controller refurb services that are out there? I like the idea of having the entire board reviewed and repaired. I've had great experience with refurb computers and printers, and it seems similar. Cost is less than half of new.

Thanks.

By far the best choice for a replacement.

I am headed out, but we can test your controller if we have everything working to rule it in or out.

[WalterM6]

Here is a way to check if you have a bad fuse. You have to get at the rear of the key switch. With your meter neg on the negative battery and the positive on the key switch you should read 48v nom with the switch on. If not you have have a blown fuse and it is probably located close to the controller.

[Htownblue]

IF blown controller, IF....
Alltrax is best option if you want better speed and more control over output of your cart.
Next is new stock controller .
Next is rebuilt controller, though your risk may vary via provider.
Next is SHIP YOUR ENTIRE CART TO DAVE, AND ALLOW HIM TO WORK HIS GREATNESS INTO YOUR LIFE VIA YOUR CART, and wait until it returns to you and changes your life.
In that order....

[PMD3454]

Did some voltage checks yesterday. Battery - to key switch line = 49.8V. With key switch off load side of switch is 1.5V. With key on, 49.8. Battery minus to solenoid in = 50.1V. Battery - to solenoid out = 12.7V. Battery minus to Controller B+ terminal = 12.7V.