2015 RXV wont move

[968cab]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Only use "Battery pack B-" as a "ground reference", as "ground" doesnt truly exsist on a golf cart that is properly wired. Not in the way you are thinking of. It's not like a car! A few carts do that (and some gas powered carts), but not any newer electric carts.

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Thanks!

[wingnut2000]

loose connections on main batteries or any batteries? maybe the plug under cup holder got wet, have you washed it or anything lately?

[968cab]

It was stripped down to the frame with a motor/differential the only thing left in place, power washed, then reassembled to the point of body parts. The entire harness and controller was removed in one piece and set aside after disconnecting from motor/brake. Bagged the motor before power washing and didn’t notice anything wet when I unbagged it. It also sat for 3 days after the wash before I put anything back together.

Already double checked all connections, plugs, etc. Checked fuse, blue wire at charger, and just about everything else I can find recommended on this and other forums. Despite being brand new, I even took individual battery readings last night, idle and with key on...all 12.8 or so in both states.

I think all I can do at this point is start swapping parts out once they arrive.

The biggest baffler to me is the fact that it releases and can be pushed around if I use the reset instructions/plug swap technique under the tow/run switch. And then “fails” again when I put the plugs back to 1-2 and 3-4.

[AZgolfcartguy]

In my experience these symptoms are usually a solenoid that engages but won't hold. When you turn on the cart listen carefully; are you getting one click or two out of the solenoid? One click means it's holding, two means it isn't. If you have a handheld to troubleshoot on the controller this issue will show up as a "Main Contactor did not close" fault.

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by 968cab

Just checking I did it correctly... Set up the way you said Run/F. Solenoid does it’s thing. Check big terminal on each side using same ground point(small black wire connection, as small red is actual solenoid “power”)

If that’s all correct, 51.6 on both sides, immediately after disconnecting the charger. I will wait an hour or so and see if they are still the same, but working towards 48.

Thanks for the help!

After cgtech corrected you on where to connect for B-, you gave no indication of whether or not you re-checked the voltage on controller side of the solenoid. It must be the same as pack voltage.

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by 968cab

It was stripped down to the frame with a motor/differential the only thing left in place, power washed, then reassembled to the point of body parts. The entire harness and controller was removed in one piece and set aside after disconnecting from motor/brake. Bagged the motor before power washing and didn’t notice anything wet when I unbagged it. It also sat for 3 days after the wash before I put anything back together.

Already double checked all connections, plugs, etc. Checked fuse, blue wire at charger, and just about everything else I can find recommended on this and other forums. Despite being brand new, I even took individual battery readings last night, idle and with key on...all 12.8 or so in both states.

I think all I can do at this point is start swapping parts out once they arrive.

The biggest baffler to me is the fact that it releases and can be pushed around if I use the reset instructions/plug swap technique under the tow/run switch. And then “fails” again when I put the plugs back to 1-2 and 3-4.

When you bypass with the plug swap, it puts pack voltage on the brake to release it. So, if the if the brake doesn't release with the KS 'on' OR when you put it in tow and KS in fwd then the voltage on the load side of the solenoid is most likely too low to release the brake. IMHO

cgtech will correct me if I am wrong on this.

[cgtech]

Or it could be that the controller doesnt see fit to unlock the brake, like it would do if it thought the charger were plugged in. And, when in Run, key on, the brake doesnt unlock when you turn the key on, it unlocks when you press the gas.

[968cab]

Sorry, guys. I got busy reading, ordering and doing other parts of the cart.

So using B- point for contact gives me 50.8 across anything I can check; pack, both sides of solenoid, etc. etc. Again, thanks for the correction on that.

Based on the “two clicks” from the solenoid comment earlier, I’m thinking that’s the problem. New one gets here late today or tomorrow. I swapped the gas plunger switch this morning since it arrived separately. The new motor brake is here as well, but I want to swap the solenoid first.

👍🏼

[basshawk84]

Like GTech suggested, make sure you have all of the wires from the charge port hooked up.

[AZgolfcartguy]

Originally Posted by 968cab

Based on the “two clicks” from the solenoid comment earlier, I’m thinking that’s the problem. New one gets here late today or tomorrow. I swapped the gas plunger switch this morning since it arrived separately. The new motor brake is here as well, but I want to swap the solenoid first.

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I've replaced a half dozen solenoids with that specific failure, it's not at all uncommon. It's possible to take apart the solenoid and check to make sure it's free of dirt or other debris that could be causing it to release but I've never done it and for the $40 you're probably better off just replacing it. You're lucky you have 2015 and not a 2016 or later; I have solenoids for the later models back ordered into September.