Series Cart Killing Pedal Micro Switches?

[JohnnieB]

I just re-read your first post. Did you measure the voltage to/from the pedal switch on the switch terminals, or at the controller, or some other place other than the switch terminals.

Reason I ask is there is an in-line connector that connects the gray cable from the pedal box to the carts wiring harness that get corroded and if that corroded connector get wet, all sorts of mysterious problems can occur. Its purpose was to make cart easier to assemble at the factory and serves no other useful purpose. Best thing to do with it is cut it out and connect the four wires (ITS and pedal switch) together with individual butt-splices or solder joints and waterproof them with marine grade (adhesive filled) shrink tubing.

[TGJR]

Originally Posted by DanRoss

A thought from a golf cart novice. Can you post some pictures of the switch installed and out? Maybe there is something wrong with the way it's installed and the pedal is pressing it too much causing physical damage?

I already pulled out the newly-killed switch. It went in just like the original one that was in there.

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I just re-read your first post. Did you measure the voltage to/from the pedal switch on the switch terminals, or at the controller, or some other place other than the switch terminals.

Reason I ask is there is an in-line connector that connects the gray cable from the pedal box to the carts wiring harness that get corroded and if that corroded connector get wet, all sorts of mysterious problems can occur. Its purpose was to make cart easier to assemble at the factory and serves no other useful purpose. Best thing to do with it is cut it out and connect the four wires (ITS and pedal switch) together with individual butt-splices or solder joints and waterproof them with marine grade (adhesive filled) shrink tubing.

When I initially troubleshooted it, I wasn't getting power to the small terminal on the solenoid. So I started at the charging port. Had power there. Had power going to the key switch and power coming out of the key switch. Had power going through the molex connector but not returning back and to the solenoid. Disconnected the molex connector and wasn't getting continuity through the two micro switch wires (red and green? Can't remember off the top of my head) when the pedal is pressed.

Got the pedal box cover off and sure enough, the micro switch was no longer functioning. The small plastic switch portion that springs out against the roller piece no longer clicked. Put the new switch in and you could hear it click with the pedal being pressed. Hooked back up the power and turned the key switch on. I briefly pushed the gas pedal a couple of times to verify the solenoid was working and wheels were moving and they were. The third or fourth time the solenoid clicked but the wheels didn't move. Then the next time the solenoid stopped clicking and the new pedal micro switch was dead.

And just like that, the brand new pedal micro was killed and we are back to square one.

[JohnnieB]

Might be the new microswitch went bad really quick. There is only a little bitty spring that closes the N.C. contacts. (See attached cutaway image)

Can you measure the amps being drawn by the solenoid coil?

It is going to spark when you connect the ammeter between the red and green pedal switch wires, so I'd add a throwaway clip lead to the test lead and save the test lead tip. If you have a meter that has a peak hold or Min/Max function, you could capture the initial amps.

[TGJR]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Might be the new microswitch went bad really quick. There is only a little bitty spring that closes the N.C. contacts. (See attached cutaway image)

Can you measure the amps being drawn by the solenoid coil?

It is going to spark when you connect the ammeter between the red and green pedal switch wires, so I'd add a throwaway clip lead to the test lead and save the test lead tip. If you have a meter that has a peak hold or Min/Max function, you could capture the initial amps.

That's exactly where it failed. The roller piece and plastic piece that protrudes out just move freely now. I'll pick up another micro switch and see if it was just bad luck the other one died so quickly.

[TGJR]

Little update...

I picked up another microswitch and this time left the pedal box open and floor mat up so I could witness what was going on with the pedal switch. First few pedal pushes and solenoid clicked fine and controller was turning on. Flipped the F/R rocker from R to F and no solenoid activation with the push of the pedal and then heard and witnessed the microswitch burn up in the pedal box. Not sure if it was a coincidence it did it when I turned it to Forward but all I'm getting is a few activations before the new microswitches die.

If the diodes seemingly all checked out fine and the wiring all looks good, what else could cause this dead short/high amp draw?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by TGJR

Little update...

I picked up another microswitch and this time left the pedal box open and floor mat up so I could witness what was going on with the pedal switch. First few pedal pushes and solenoid clicked fine and controller was turning on. Flipped the F/R rocker from R to F and no solenoid activation with the push of the pedal and then heard and witnessed the microswitch burn up in the pedal box. Not sure if it was a coincidence it did it when I turned it to Forward but all I'm getting is a few activations before the new microswitches die.

If the diodes seemingly all checked out fine and the wiring all looks good, what else could cause this dead short/high amp draw?

The output from the pedal switch only feeds the solenoid coil, with a diode on it, and the controller's electronics.

Check the amp draw by those items one at a time with a fused digital ammeter that'll read 10A or more, preferable 20A or more.

[TGJR]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The output from the pedal switch only feeds the solenoid coil, with a diode on it, and the controller's electronics.

The rocker switch for the F/R contactors is also tied to the (+) side of the solenoid. Does that need to be moved to the battery pack?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by TGJR

The rocker switch for the F/R contactors is also tied to the (+) side of the solenoid. Does that need to be moved to the battery pack?

I forgot about your cart having a reversing contactor.

Measure the amps drawn by each item that draws amps through the pedal switch, one at a time. (The solenoid coils with and without diodes attached)

The pedal microswitch probably has a 5A rating and it appears that many time that is being drawn by something.