Hooked up new'ish controller and I think I may have a wire hooked up wrong?

[ATrain]

I have an older Western (EZGO) that had a Curtis controller that failed and I replaced it with a friend's used (working) Navitas TSX500, but it only goes in 1 direction and I think it may be due to my wiring of the 5 large wires (B+/B-/etc).



I had a friend in town that helped me hook it up, but we only had ~3 hours to do everything so I'm hoping it's something simple.

I have the software & programming cable and I see the F/R correctly getting detected in the Navitas software.

I don't have a great understanding of what the correct configuration of those 5 bolts is supposed to be. Could something swapped or hooked to the wrong one cause this?

I also remember we switched 2 wires (not sure which) to test so when it's in reverse, it actually goes forward. Which two would these be to flip back?

[kgsc]

Outer 2 are the field wires. They go to F1 and F2. Center heavy wire goes to A1 on the motor. Heavy top left goes to solenoid. Heavy top right goes to pack -.

[ATrain]

So it won't go in reverse is the primary problem. It's pretty difficult to get a good look at the motor, but it feels like something isn't wired correctly with these 5 posts. I took some pictures though if anyone is able to help identify which post is what on the motor (I labeled them 1-4).

I was able to see 4 big lugs on the motor and I used my continuity tester to touch them and the lugs on the controller and created a little wiring diagram of how it currently is. The wiring diagram is only continuity though, so I'm not sure which wire goes directly where except for the battery/solenoid wires.




This is taken from the front of the cart looking over the batteries.


This one I took while laying on my back under the back of the cart. #3 is driver's side.



No idea what these 3 wires going into the side of the motor are for.


Does anything seem off with the wiring diagram? I thought it was odd that motor post #4 is showing continuity across all all 5 posts. I could barely see the color of the wire on #4 and it looks like it's connected directly to F1 if that helps.

[JohnnieB]

The difference between F and R in a Western cart based on a PDS chassis is the direction the filed amps flow between F1 and F2.

Since you say the Nevitas software saying the R signal is being received by the controller, the probability of the controller being bad is very high.

There is an ever so slight possibility that the motor will only run in one direction, but the odds of winning a lotto jackpot might be better.

To check motor:
When cart will drive forward, swap the F1 and F2 wires at the controller.
It should now go backwards.
If it does, the controller is a boat anchor.

[ATrain]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The difference between F and R in a Western cart based on a PDS chassis is the direction the filed amps flow between F1 and F2.

Since you say the Nevitas software saying the R signal is being received by the controller, the probability of the controller being bad is very high.

There is an ever so slight possibility that the motor will only run in one direction, but the odds of winning a lotto jackpot might be better.

To check motor:
When cart will drive forward, swap the F1 and F2 wires at the controller.
It should now go backwards.
If it does, the controller is a boat anchor.

I swapped F1/F2 and it now only goes in reverse. Motor is good, switch is good, but I'd like to troubleshoot the wiring/controller a bit more before jumping to a second defective controller in a row. This cart has wiring and age problems.

Some examples of recent problems I've identified/fixed were battery acid had leaked onto the plug where the accelerator connects and the corrosion on the plug blocked the voltage, so I had to run a new wire.

Another issue I fixed was the Navitas expects 0-5v and the resolution of the accelerator pedal is 3.35-3.47v so that was a problem until I adjusted the min/max range in the software.

One thing I had screwed up before, but I think might indicate the controller is working is I had the FR wires switched and the F1/F2 wires switched. So in the software it would say R, but it would go forward. I just flipped the F1/F2 and now it says R and goes in reverse. If I switch the FR wires and the software reads F and it goes in reverse, doesn't that indicate the controller is putting out the field for both F/R?

Is there any way I could have something wired incorrectly or a wire is not connected? Or the software seems pretty complex...maybe a bad setting?

The wires are pretty old/corroded so perhaps there's a break in one of them? I did hear some crunching when I flexed the battery wires (and replaced them all). It's a bit of a wire mess that I've tried to clean up.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by ATrain

I swapped F1/F2 and it now only goes in reverse. Motor is good, switch is good, but I'd like to troubleshoot the wiring/controller a bit more before jumping to a second defective controller in a row. This cart has wiring and age problems.

Some examples of recent problems I've identified/fixed were battery acid had leaked onto the plug where the accelerator connects and the corrosion on the plug blocked the voltage, so I had to run a new wire.

Another issue I fixed was the Navitas expects 0-5v and the resolution of the accelerator pedal is 3.35-3.47v so that was a problem until I adjusted the min/max range in the software.

One thing I had screwed up before, but I think might indicate the controller is working is I had the FR wires switched and the F1/F2 wires switched. So in the software it would say R, but it would go forward. I just flipped the F1/F2 and now it says R and goes in reverse. If I switch the FR wires and the software reads F and it goes in reverse, doesn't that indicate the controller is putting out the field for both F/R?

Is there any way I could have something wired incorrectly or a wire is not connected? Or the software seems pretty complex...maybe a bad setting?

The wires are pretty old/corroded so perhaps there's a break in one of them? I did hear some crunching when I flexed the battery wires (and replaced them all). It's a bit of a wire mess that I've tried to clean up.

You've got another bad controller.

The cart may have a short between F1 and F2 that is taking out controller, so replace the F1 & F2 wires. (10Ga or thicker)

Check the resistance between the motor's F1 and F2 studs also. Should measure from 1Ω to 2Ω with a handheld DMM.

[ATrain]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

You've got another bad controller.

The cart may have a short between F1 and F2 that is taking out controller, so replace the F1 & F2 wires. (10Ga or thicker)

When you say short, does that mean there should be no continuity between F1/F2? I removed the two wires from the controller and there IS continuity between the two of them.

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Check the resistance between the motor's F1 and F2 studs also. Should measure from 1Ω to 2Ω with a handheld DMM.

I think I measured the resistance between the F1/F2 and it was going up/down on the meter but the highest was 0.7. Do I need to disconnect the wires before measuring? I don't think the key was on, but the controller light was on, so it was receiving some power from somewhere.

Further, I did another test and paid a little closer attention. Here's what I observed:

• Flipping F/R is correctly detected by the controller software.
• Switching F1/F2 with switch in R makes the cart go forward or reverse depending on the F1/F2 wires
• Switching F1/F2 with switch in F does nothing regardless of the F1/F2 wires

Is there any chance I have these current settings screwed up or should any of the values be negative?



It seems unusual to me that it'll go forward/reverse just fine and it will detect the F/R switch just fine, but in "F" it won't do anything. That's why I was thinking it was a wiring issue or maybe a controller programming issue.

[ATrain]

I found this controller diode test chart to test for a malfunctioning controller and it looks like the results say it's faulty.



Two of the diodes should be ~0.48v, but instead one is 0.002v and the other is 0.82v.

I don't suppose this means I could just disassemble the controller and solder in a new diode or something...

[JohnnieB]

I should have said a short between the F1 & F1 wires. Sometime the insulation wears off of them where the are routed around the battery frame and the the bare copper conductors touch each other, which will take out the field output circuit unless the controller has short circuit protection on the outputs like the Alltrax controllers being sold these days do.

Wires need to be disconnected to measure Ohms.

* Flipping F/R is correctly detected by the controller software.
* Switching F1/F2 with switch in R makes the cart go forward or reverse depending on the F1/F2 wires
* Switching F1/F2 with switch in F does nothing regardless of the F1/F2 wires

The above three statements highlighted in red prove the controller is bad.

The diode testing further proves it.


I don't have a schematic of Navitas controller's innards, so I have no idea what component(s) are blown or if the are replaceable.

[ATrain]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I should have said a short between the F1 & F1 wires. Sometime the insulation wears off of them where the are routed around the battery frame and the the bare copper conductors touch each other, which will take out the field output circuit unless the controller has short circuit protection on the outputs like the Alltrax controllers being sold these days do.

Wires need to be disconnected to measure Ohms.

* Flipping F/R is correctly detected by the controller software.
* Switching F1/F2 with switch in R makes the cart go forward or reverse depending on the F1/F2 wires
* Switching F1/F2 with switch in F does nothing regardless of the F1/F2 wires

The above three statements highlighted in red prove the controller is bad.

The diode testing further proves it.


I don't have a schematic of Navitas controller's innards, so I have no idea what component(s) are blown or if the are replaceable.

I've accepted my fate. Controller is bad. The thing is crazy sealed up too so getting it apart I'd probably break it.