RXV - No Reverse When Lights Are On

[Snootalope]

So if I hook the reducer directly to the batteries (primary positive and primary negative) it works fine, lights and reverse are no problem. However, I went to the solenoid with the reducer input, as someone already pointed out, to keep the lights and stuff off until the key is turned on. I've got little kids running around and quickly realized there's no way in heck I'm going to keep them from flipping switches when I can't keep an eye on em.

There's a 48v lead that runs up under the cup holder that I had to use for my volt meter. I'm almost wondering what would happen if I hooked up my reducer input to it rather than to the same prong the controller feeds off of. I suppose the 48v lead under the cup holder could feed from that same prong which would defeat the purpose, but was just a thought...

PingEye3 - just seen your post about a 48V Relay. Would that relay then sit between the solenoid and the input to the reducer then? I can't imagine that's an expensive test to give it a try, just need to find a 48v relay. AutoZone maybe?

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by Snootalope

So if I hook the reducer directly to the batteries (primary positive and primary negative) it works fine, lights and reverse are no problem. However, I went to the solenoid with the reducer input, as someone already pointed out, to keep the lights and stuff off until the key is turned on. I've got little kids running around and quickly realized there's no way in heck I'm going to keep them from flipping switches when I can't keep an eye on em.

There's a 48v lead that runs up under the cup holder that I had to use for my volt meter. I'm almost wondering what would happen if I hooked up my reducer input to it rather than to the same prong the controller feeds off of. I suppose the 48v lead under the cup holder could feed from that same prong which would defeat the purpose, but was just a thought...

Most likely you would end up purchasing a new controller. Stay away from the RXV harness for wiring anything to it not originally with the cart.

[jneubig]

I'd either send back the reducer you have or rathole it for another project and get the five wire type reducer. As mentioned above, messing with the RXV wiring can be a recipe for disaster with regards to killing a controller. Don't ask me how I found that out the hard way.

[Sergio]

A 48v coil relay can be used to power the converter from the cart Solenoid.

Make sure You also get a diode, 1N4004 or 1N4007 to go across the relay coil terminals.

The diode side with a stripe goes with the relay coil wire connected to the Solenoid big post.

The other relay coil terminal and the other side of the diode go to pack negative.

Wire the +48v converter input to relay COM terminal.

Wire +48v (with 10 amp fuse) from pack positive to relay N.O. terminal.

You can order the 48v relay with the socket/harness from Amazon.

[Chevota Guy]

I use a 48V relay as a trigger for my non-trigger wire reducer (2010 RXV). My reducer is triggered from the switched side of the solenoid, but only draws around 40 mA so the controller never senses it. The reducer main power is connected to the non switched side of the solenoid. No problems.

[PingEye3]

Thank you Sergio, as always you are so helpful with the step by step procedures.

[Snootalope]

Just following up here.. I ended up buying this 48v relay off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d-b31d6b1bfbee

And installed it just like the instructions said to, also the same shown here in this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hU6g...llMasterofNone

Works great, no more reverse problems!

[Chevota Guy]

I originally had mine connected that way also. Several technical guys on this forum advised me NOT to use that small solenoid coil terminal as the trigger. I moved the relay switching wire over to the large switched terminal on the solenoid and all has been working well.