Regen 1 / Regen 2 soleniod question

[scotto3]

I have a 96 Powerdrive Plus 48V, S/N A9635-521884. I bought this thing @ sealed bids and got more than I bargained for.
What I have figured out so far is I have a regen 1 that has been converted to a regen 2.The controller is a silver GE 200 amp.It has a rocker F/R switch. It has one Albright soleniod.
I was afraid that parts had been robbed and wired the cart to match the powerdrive plus that was in a manual i bought.I found the conversion kit directions and did the step by step directions on what wires needed removed.(no schematic).
Question #1 does anyone know if the soleniod is supposed to have a resistor across the 2 large posts of the soleniod???
#2 easy way to test the controller???



I want to start with the less expensive fix first

[OLD MEC]

#1-if you are talking about main solenoid then YES you need a pre-charge resistor with value of 470 OHM and 10 Watts across large terminals. NOTE you also should have a Diode across small terminals of solenoid ( Make sure that color band on diode is in right direction, toward battery side) use 1N4004-1 amp unit for "stock solenoids" of 70-100 amps, if 200 amp and up solenoid use 1N5408-1 amp.
#2-As to doing tests on any regen controllers I dont know of any simple way to do it without a lot of special equipment?

[scotto3]

Thanks for the help, The solenoid (Albright) I have now has a diode on the small posts already.I went ahead and ordered one any way. If you are familiar with the converted Regen1 /Regen 2 conversions, Its next to impossible to find a schematic.If any one has has an idea on the soleniod wiring I am going by the Regen 1 diagram and the directions to the conversion kit (dealer faxed me directions).

[OLD MEC]

HOPE THIS MIGHT HELP? you with your cart as it has wiring diagram with wire colors and where the connections go??
http://www.golfcartpartsdirect.com/e...tshow/211.html

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Actually no, there is not supposed to be a pre-charge resistor on this system. There is also no diode between the small posts. If the Albright solenoid still has the small diode built in between the two terminals, clip it off with a small set of pliers.

[scotto3]

I will remove the diode thats between the 2 small posts.At the present time I wired it the way conversion kit directions directed. When the key is turned on the soleniod does not click and I have no voltage on the second large post(Yellow wire) when pedal is pushed. the way it wired now is

LARGE POST(1green,3red, 1 large red from#1 batt.)
LARGE POST(1 large yellow going to controller)
Small POST(1blue/white)
small POST + side(1red/white,1blue,1orange/white)

batterys charged 50 volts plus (till charger shut off) Motor had coil wire shorted (fixed by electric shop) new key switch, new soleniod and have looked cart over for loose wires.

Any Ideas ????? All help is greatly Appreciated. Thanks

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by scotto3

I will remove the diode thats between the 2 small posts.At the present time I wired it the way conversion kit directions directed. When the key is turned on the soleniod does not click and I have no voltage on the second large post(Yellow wire) when pedal is pushed. the way it wired now is

LARGE POST(1green,3red, 1 large red from#1 batt.)
LARGE POST(1 large yellow going to controller)
Small POST(1blue/white)
small POST + side(1red/white,1blue,1orange/white)

batterys charged 50 volts plus (till charger shut off) Motor had coil wire shorted (fixed by electric shop) new key switch, new soleniod and have looked cart over for loose wires.

Any Ideas ????? All help is greatly Appreciated. Thanks

Does the reverse buzzer work? If so, it rules out the OBC as the problem. It provides a ground for the controller. If the buzzer buzzes, it's obviously got a ground.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Also check the pins in the old Regen1 plug. They've got a bad tendency to come out and not make contact.

[scotto3]

Reverse Buzzer does work,
Should the soleniod click when turning the key to the "ON" position, I Have Nothing when key is turned on, and no voltage on other large post of soleniod.(soleniod is New)

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Yes it should click when you turn on the key. It's normal for you not to have voltage on the large post you're referring to. It doesn't get power until the solenoid clicks on. Do a voltage test across the two small posts on the solenoid with car on, in forward, and pedal depressed. You should see battery voltage. If not, check microswitch in potentiometer for continuity. If it's good and all wiring is in good shape, replace controller.