Need Help Badly!!!

[D-A]

It is overloading in the beginning! I remember the same thing, but my wires weren't cut. The diagram JohnnieB posted walks you through the wiring. Normal wiring is 6ga. then upgrade from there is 4ga. (numbers get lower, wire gets larger). You can purchase them on line or at a local dealer. Most cart lovers that upgrade prefer soldered connections instead of cripped. They all work, soldered is better.
Just look at the diagram and follow one point to the other. I upgraded to 4 ga welders wire, soldered on the copper 5/16" full sleeve lugs. I bought 29' of the wire and had just under a foot left. This wired everthing including all 6 batteries.

[D-A]

My old wires had markings on them, they may have been replaced from the originals. If yours have the marking, it will help you trace where that wire goes. I'll attach one of my pics showing the "M-" marking. It attaches on the controller then runs to the motor "A1"
In the pic, it is the wire on the right side (top) of the controller.

[zlangdon]

D-A what year cart is that in the pic with the batteries? My cart is the exact same with the linkage running from the lever to the Forward/Reverse Mechanism. And where is your serial number located?

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by D-A

Johnnie! Nice attachments! I thought I had that wiring diagram (your #2 pic), but only hard copy (not on computer). Never heard of the "reed switch", learned something new today!

I opened up two failed reed switches, and both were glass reed switches in a plastic housing. A reed switch is simply a normally open (NO) switch, where one pole is magnetically closed when in close proximity to a magnet, which is in the charger plug.

Since it's glass, both of mine had broken, and failed while I was working on the cart. I suspect the broken glass pieces fell in between the two poles, preventing them from ever closing. I simply cut out the reed switch and crimped a lug on the white wire, bypassing the reed switch, but keeping the same configuration of getting the battery plus from inside the charger receptacle.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by simple man

That type fuse panel will give you problems! The plastic used will let the rivets loosen resulting in a bad connection. I would advise replacing it with a newer type! I used inline fuses for mine. You can get these at any auto parts store, and the better quality ones are sealed and take the common spade type fuse.

For an upgrade, buy one from a boating supply store. They cost a bit more, but are suited for use in corrosive environments, such as salt water.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by zlangdon

This **** thing is nothing but a headache at this point!

But if you trouble-shoot and fix it, you will learn more about what makes it run, and what can go wrong, and over the years, this will serve you well, as you'll run into other frustrating problems down the road.

[JohnnieB]

@ D-A
Do your Interstate batteries have a Model or Part Number printed on one of the labels or the battery case someplace?
Interstate has 5 different grades of Deep Cycle Flooded Lead-Acid 6V batteries ranging from 208AH to 251AH and someone in a different thread was trying to identify what the Interstate dealer sold him.
(He told him he needed some GC batteries and the guy behind the counter started hauling them out of the back room. Nothing said about what they were or there being more than the one grade.)

@ zlangdon
If your cart's body is metal, you've probably got a Medalist, which was built from 1993 to 1999.
If it is plastic, it is probably a TXT, which was built from 1996 to Present.
Both of those body styles and some others, had the F/R lever, connecting rod and switch assembly as shown in D-A's photo.
This EZGO website will show you pictures of the different body styles, the years they were mad and when the Serial Number labels were placed.

If the labels are gone, narrowing the cart down to the exact year will be difficult if not impossible.
There was a visible change in the steering linkage and the might have been some other visible changes, but I don't know what year the change(s) occurred.

Fortunately, EZGO didn't reinvent the wheel every year or so, like the auto industry did, so if your wire up your cart according to the schematic I posted, it will not only work, it will most likely be wired exactly like it was when it rolled out of the factory, whenever it rolled out.
(Except the Reed Switch - which has been bypassed)

Like yurtle said, You'll know how your cart works a lot better than most cart owners, which will come in handy down the road.

[D-A]

Zlang, I have a 95 Medalist. 94-95 Medalist had a metal body. Pre-94 (Marathon's) also had metal bodies. If it's a plastic body it maybe late 95 and up. My plate was in the passenger glove box left side.

Check out these sites to help you ID your cart, They have pics and info!
http://www.everythingcarts.com/what-...golf-cart.aspx
http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

1976-1993 is called the Marathon. Look at the manufacturer's number located on a metal plate below the passenger side glove compartment. In the Manuf. Number there's a two digit year code hidden, ex. 86 is 1986.

1994-1995 is called the Medalist. Has a metal body. Year is determined by a two digit year code, ex. 95, hidden inside the Manuf. Number located on the metal plate inside the passenger side glove compartment.

1996-Current is the TXT. Has a plastic body. Year is determined by a two digit year code, ex. 99, hidden in the Manuf. Number located on the metal plate inside the passenger side glove compartment. Electric TXT's come in normal, DCS (Drive Control System) and PDS models.

In 2001.5 and newer EZGo changed the steering mechanism. Some 2001's have the old style, some 2001's have the new. The newer (2001.5+) has a steering rack that lays on top of the front axle. The older style has a black arm that comes straight down from a silver steering box.


How to Determine the model of your Electric TXT:

Under the seat, on the passenger's side, there is a black plastic rectangular cover over the motor controller. If the cover does not have a switch on it (usually labeled Run/Tow) than it is a normal, "series" cart.

If you have a switch on the controller cover, you need to take the cover off with the four bolts holding it in place for further inspection. A DCS controller has a white 10-pin connector on the top. A PDS controller has two 5-pin connectors on the front. PDS carts can accept a chip that will make them go faster and/or drive differently. See a local EZ-Go dealer for this chip.





Johnnie, no time to check batteries now will try to get to it tomorrow and let you know. I purchased at Costco $85 ea with an exchange. They will also warranty (pro-rated) them.

[zlangdon]

Ok, Seem to have the cart running now at least. But I have a few problems. It seems like the cart doesnt want to shift into second gear? Im assuming the clicking noise you usually hear when driving in an electric cart is the cart going through gears kindof? Would a new engine controller be needed to cure this? also the metal backing plate with fins on it that the engine controller cover bolts to is shot. Does anyone know where I can get a new one from so I will be able to bolt the cover back on. And Lastly, Is there supposed to be rear inner fenders on these carts or are they supposed to be wide open inside the rear fender wells? Ive come to conclude that this is a series cart. I know it is a TXT but still not exactly sure on the year. It does not have a run/tow switch on the controller cover. Also if I do need to get a new engine controller where can I find one the most affordable and they are pretty pricey.

[JohnnieB]

An EZGO TXT with a series wound motor, (commonly referred to as a TXT Series cart), is a direct drive system. The only gears are located in the differential and they don't change ratios while driving.

The motor (not engine) starts at zero RPM with the cart sitting still and simply increases RPM from zero to maximum RPM as the cart goes from rest to its maximum speed.

The only "clicks" or "clunks" to be heard are the soft clicks of microswitchs actuated by the F/R assembly and the throttle pedal, and the louder clunk of the solenoid contacts closing.
Once the cart is moving, any electro-mechanical clicks/clunks heard would be abnormal.

If the battery pack is low, the click you're hearing might be the solenoid might be dropping out or the speed controller might be going into low-voltage cutoff.
What is the battery voltage? (Should be at least 38.2V for a fully charged 36V battery pack)

Here is a link to one of the stickies at the top of this forum. (Read them all - lots of good info)
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html
Download the three *.pdf files. They are the Owner, the Service and the Parts manuals for a TXT cart. They're for 2000 and up, but except for minor changes, all TXT series carts are pretty much the same.

The piece of aluminum with fins on it is called a heatsink. You will most likely have to cut or break the bolts attaching it to the frame.
If the mounting holes for attaching the controller or the controller cover to are stripped out, just drill and tap for slightly larger bolts.
Like people, an old heatsink will still do its job even though it might not look very good any longer.

As for speed controllers, there are a lot of options. Take your time, figure out what kind of cart you want to end up with and do some research.
Just about all the Site Sponsors sell speed controllers.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/site-sponsors.php
This guy has put together some packages that play well together.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

Hope this answers some of your questions.

Fortunately the fog eventually lifts. Starting out with a non-working cart creates a steep learning curve, but you'll survive.