Club Car 48 volt need schematic

[brock]

more than just a diagram, I got that, but no readings anywhere, this one is dead, switch for break was in poor shape, I shorted it, still nothing at all, no lights, batts are 48 volt with a load, there is no dead man switch on this one, uses the key to disconnect the cpu, switch is known good, fwd/rev switch ohms ok from what I can tell, all three micro switches toggle as they should and ohm correct, uses silver controller, has B+ and B- correct, main relay, ( only uses one) never clicks, questions is what voltages should I find on pin 1,2,&3 of the controller ? should the power light be on on the computer with switch on ? a schematic with voltage readings would be great, I'm a trouble shooter by trade, just never worked on a golf cart, and trying to be sure that the controller or cpu is not damaged, thanks for any help.

[erict]

Year and model?

[brock]

1995 club car not sure of a model, ? doesn't say,

[rib33024]

Welcome to BGW


ser number will tell you what it is

[brock]

Originally Posted by erict

Year and model?

serial # A9530 - 448597

[brock]

Does that help decide which model it is?

[Golfdog]

Originally Posted by brock

serial # A9530 - 448597

DS Cart 1995 If you have the silver controller then its a 5k - 0 throttle with 3 wires from the potentiometer. 2 wires go to terminals 2 and 3 of the controller and a third to the battery neg. on the controller.Terminal 1 is the power feed to the controller that comes from the relay (solenoid). Place the red probe of a multimeter set to 200v on the disconnected wire (red) that goes to terminal 1 and the black probe to the controller B- terminal. With the key on and the accelerator pressed to the floor the reading should be battery voltage. If so you are getting power to the controller and the relay. If the relay still does not click take a jumper wire from the negative small post of the relay and jump it to battery negative. Key on , depress the accelerator, if cart goes then the On Board Computer is faulty.If you don't get power to the controller then the microswitches on the fwd/rev or in the potentiometer or the key switch are at fault or there is a loose wire.

[brock]

I jumped the relay, forget to mention it, even brushed across the two large terminals which I was certain would get me motor movement or more than just a small spark, I think the controller is keeping the circuit open, thats what I want to prove. as far as the solonoid both of the small terminals are the same size, are they - and + to make the relay pull ? or is one a sense and I get + from the large terminal? I also should mention this cart has been upgraded to run faster, some obvious wire changes from original. all things are pointing me to the controller as that appears to be the final step before B+ is hi

[Golfdog]

The 2 small posts are for the coil in the relay, you should have a diode across them with the silver band on the + side. If you don't have the diode, do a continuity test from the disconnected wire to terminal 1 of the controller and one of the small posts.You should get continuity on the + post and an open circuit on the other. Are you getting voltage to the red wire disconnected from the controller terminal 1 with the cart in fwd/rev, switch on and accelerator depressed ?

[brock]

yes have full B+ at term #1 on controller, nothing on 2 or 3, comming from pot, there is 48 on the blue from switch, it appears if 48 enters the potentiometer, it should leave and that must be my problem ? so question, am I supposed to see voltage on #2 adn #3 that varies with the movement of the footswitch, at those two pins ? I did what you said with the red wire from - to yellow wire on relay,, ( wire removed) and now that relay clicks when I depress accelerator, but no movement, as I stated, no voltage on those pins, can you verify I need voltage on 2&3 before I mess something up ?
brock