Smoking and smelling F/R switch

[krugerand777]

Hi JohnnieB,

Thanks for your reply. I think I am making some progress. I used a mirror to find out that I have a Alltrax NPX 483 so I think that is a 300 amp controller. The solenoid attached to it has a sticker that says A36 5080 (don't know what that means but picture attached) Alltrax site says controller is for stock motors only and not lifted carts but seems to be working for my cart anyway.

1. Makes sense.

2. I have a Powerwise TXT charger. I tested the Rayovac Ultra Pro batteries (SLIGC110 20AH CAP 215 105min @ 75 amps) this morning at resting state and the meter read 38.6

3. Will throw the idea of switching to stock tires out.

4. Sounds like at least the controller and solenoid can be worked with as is correct?

5. Do you mean that the 2 gauge cable might not be working correctly or is improper size? Here is what is says on the wires: SAE J1127 SGT Type 2 60V 2 GA 105 deg C 221 deg F Dry. Those are between the batteries, and then the 6 GA between the motor and F /R switch and also 6 GA from the two batteries to the controller.

I will try to do a test under load as suggested and report back. If you still think I need new wires would you say i could try that before investing in new F/R switch?

Thanks Again for the help!!

[ab46501]

I was just about to post that it appeared the NPX was either the 4834 or 4844 replacement when you posted. The Alltrax website does say that they are desigend for stock carts only but I think you will be ok with your current set up.

The EMP motor is a 3.1 redesign. Sorry if I confused you earlier. What I meant is that according to EMP if you have stock tires you should be getting 16-18 mph so it is more of a speed motor. While I don't think it would handle huge tires you will probably be ok with the 22's.

I have had experience with EMP motors and they are good products as long as the cart is not heavily modified. One thing I can tell you is that they really like good clean cables and if not they can overheat quickly.

What I would do if I was you is replace all the cables. I don't have any technical data on this but just from my own experience is once a cable overheats badly it's just is not the same for some reason and should be replaced. I also would get a heavy duty FNR switch and if you can't determine what the solenoid is I would replace that too.

I have a slightly used HD solenoid for sale in the classifieds here id you decide you need one....http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/golf-...solenoids.html

[scottyb]

That solenoid is what you need, good price Too!

[JohnnieB]

2. Charger and batteries.
a. Powerwise chargers come in a variety of flavors.
Attached is the manual for PW and PW+, but the info applies to just about all of them.
Nice thing is that they are built like tanks and are 100% repairable.
Not shutting off is an issue, but it appears to be charging battery pack.
I'd try cleaning the terminals in the charger plug and the Cart's receptacle.
We can troubleshoot the charge more later. It is a separate issue.

b. What is the individual battery voltages?
They should all be about 6.37V or a bit higher if batteries are new.
And, all six voltages should be withing 0.1V of each other.

4. The controller and/or solenoid appear to be working.
If they were bad, the problem wouldn't be overheating cables and F/R assembly.

5. In general terms, bigger is better. However, 4Ga is said to be adequate for use with a 400A controller.
Whether the existing 2Ga cables are good or not, cannot be answered without measuring across them under load. (Or by the using some highly specialized test equipment.)

On the down side, J1127 is automotive battery cable. High strand count welding cable works better for electric golf cart cables.

I also noticed the cables visible in the pictures appear to have open ended terminal lugs and exposed conductors. The problem is that the stranded conductors are exposed to the acid laden air in the battery compartment are corrosion forms inside the cable itself. Closed end lugs and an air tight seal between lug and cable insulation work best.

-----------------
Attached is a simplified generic drawing of the high current loop with the single current path highlighted in purple.

Total current passes through every cable, every connection, every motor winding, every contact and the controller.
They all have to be able to pass the same amount of current(Amps) that the controller will allow the motor to draw.

When one or more of the aforementioned items is getting hot (other than the motor) that item has undesired resistance in it.

If an item that is getting hot is replaced, the next weaker link in the chain becomes hotter.

The cables getting hot definitely have to be fixed or replaced before they start a fire.
If the F/R switch is getting hot, it needs to be fixed or replaced.
If the solenoid is getting hot, it needs to be fixed or replaced.

[krugerand777]

AB,
I would like to keep your solenoid in mind. Since I am not too mechanical and don't want to touch anything I don't have to...I am going to try to work backwards/forward from the F/R switch. So replace that and the cables and see where I am there. thnx

[krugerand777]

JohnnieB,
Thank you for all the information and help. I tried to hook up alligator clips to my multimeter prongs and then clip them onto the the battery pack. SPARK/MELT...dumb question now but do the clips have to have the rubber insulation?

The seller was adamant that he bought the batteries a few months ago. I will test them individually and post here. Seller also said he just turned off charger when it was at zero so I do think something inside the charger is the culprit there.

Like I told AB, I'm not too mechanical as you can tell from my alligator clip incident and don't want to mess with anything I don't have to but obviously want to be safe and have it perform well. That said I am going to follow your advice and start with replacing the cables and the F/R switch. I think it is toast or soon will be. I see you have the 2 gauge wire and mentioned less resistance(heat) with that size so I am considering doing the same if that 60% less resistance is much better than adequate? Is it ok to check the solenoid for heat after those replacements or better before?

[krugerand777]

Just checked the batteries individually.
Ran for about 5 minutes yesterday and then it sat overnight without any charge.
Results:
pack = 38.5
individually they all tested at 6.43

So from my understanding that means the batteries are good correct?

[JohnnieB]

Yep, the alligator clips need to have insulated covers.

The pack voltage and individual voltages indicate the batteries are fairly new and that the charger is charging them

To check the batteries health, run the cart until the pack voltage is down to about 37.5V (80% State of Charge) and measure the indivdual voltages again. They should all be about 6.25V and still be within 0.1V of each other.

If they are, you've got a good set of batteries. Take good care of them, keep them as fully charged as possible and they ought to last a long time.

------------------

The charger ought to be shutting off automatically, but some troubleshooting is needed to determine what is wrong.

Does the charger start humming the moment it is plugged into AC power, or do you have to plug it into the cart before it hums?

If it hums without being plugged into cart, the relay on the control board has been bypassed and about the only reason to bypass that relay is a bad control board.

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With a 400A or smaller controller, you probably won't notice much difference between a good set of 4Ga cables and a good set of 2Ga cables.
With 400A passing through 20' of 4Ga cable you loose about 2V that should be applied to the motor and with 2Ga it is about 1.3V, so the gain in voltage applied to the motor is about 35% (0.7V).
Of course, the current flow when cruising at top speed on a hard level surface is typically in the 50A to 75A range, so the difference would only be perceptible during maximum effort accelerations and climbing steep hills.

I went with 2Ga cable because I am an efficiency nut.
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Either way with the solenoid. If it is getting hot, it will get hotter with new cables and F/R.

[simple man]

Originally Posted by krugerand777

AB,
I would like to keep your solenoid in mind. Since I am not too mechanical and don't want to touch anything I don't have to...I am going to try to work backwards/forward from the F/R switch. So replace that and the cables and see where I am there. thnx

I would get that solenoid! I have the same one on my cart and it has been abused and I've never had any problem with it!

[krugerand777]

ok, will do that all this afternoon and will check solenoid for heat too.