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Old 11-09-2012, 11:18 AM   #21
cjaws
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Default Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

This is what i have. I dont see a B- and M- terminal. I took a few pics of what i see let me know if i am looking over something
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:54 AM   #22
Stevegrmich
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Default Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

. . . looks like a Sepex Power Drive Plus Regen 1 controller . . .
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:43 PM   #23
cjaws
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Default Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

What does that mean? Is this an easy fix or expensive fix?
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:41 PM   #24
cjaws
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Default Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

I have voltage on both sides of the controller box. Does this mean it works. Im not sure how to test terminals B- and M- still at a lost on this, I have looked the cart over and the wiring diagram and I dont see where these could be.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:38 PM   #25
scottyb
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Default Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

That's not the drive system I thought we were dealing with.....Regen one and two are my weak suit , Hopefully somebody who knows more about how to troubleshoot them will chime in.
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:59 PM   #26
cjaws
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Talking Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

Thanks Scottyb for all your help!
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:03 AM   #27
cjaws
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Default Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

Anyone know anything about this cart?
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:36 AM   #28
scottyb
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Default Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

TahoedawgZ71 does. Hopefully he will pop in today and shed some light on this one!
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:31 PM   #29
TahoeDawgZ71
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Default Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

It's a Regen1. Absolutely the worst system ever built by Club Car. It's garbage. Did I read on here that only one of your solenoids are clicking? They should click in sync with each other when the pedal is depressed. Which one is clicking? If it's the one with the coil on it then it's not doing you any good. That's the Dynamic Braking solenoid. If the master solenoid (the other one) doesn't click the cart won't run. Step one is to get both solenoids working. Step two if it still doesn't run is to do a continuity check on the motor. A1 to A2 and F1 to F2 should have 100% continuity but none from any post to any other location. If the motor passes the test, test the potentiometer signal. It should range from 5K at pedal up to 0 and wide open throttle. If both of these pass the test, and I'm pretty sure they will, replace the controller because it's bad (or because it's a Regen1)

Since replacement controllers are not available for this model you have to convert to another system. Let me know if I can help
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:45 AM   #30
cjaws
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Default Re: 1997 48 volt Clubcar Wont go

Thanks for the responce!! The Master solenoid is the one that it clicking. The one with the coil is staying closed at all times. I will replace that and see what I get. Where is the potentiometer? So i can check it if the solenoid doesnt fix it.
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