Help ezgo not moving

[Petergriffin]

Just picked up a 1993 36v electric marathon. Dont know much about these things. It was running fine for a week. Pulled it off the charger other morning 100 ft or so, got out got back in she didnt move. From everything i read i hear solenoid clicking i believe in black box. I tested batteries with volt meter, all read about 6.37. As far as testing solenoid (i guess should be next step). Can i leave all cables on it to do whatever i need to do test? How should i do it with multimeter. Also i should note who i got it from the ignition is not hooked up so basically on all the time. i dont know how he has it hooked up with the ignition bypassed. Well thanks for anyones help who chimes in.

[yamahaguy97]

Originally Posted by Petergriffin

Just picked up a 1993 36v electric marathon. Dont know much about these things. It was running fine for a week. Pulled it off the charger other morning 100 ft or so, got out got back in she didnt move. From everything i read i hear solenoid clicking i believe in black box. I tested batteries with volt meter, all read about 6.37. As far as testing solenoid (i guess should be next step). Can i leave all cables on it to do whatever i need to do test? How should i do it with multimeter. Also i should note who i got it from the ignition is not hooked up so basically on all the time. i dont know how he has it hooked up with the ignition bypassed. Well thanks for anyones help who chimes in.

he just tied the wires in together on the ignition that's all. yes you can test solenoid with meter with batteries hooked up, no danger there. Even though your solenoid is clicking it can still be bad. the black box is not really a box its like a roof lol, unscrew that and you will see the solenoid. Take a battery cable or a wire just as thick and access the solenoid. Jump across the 2 large terminals on it and have someone push the pedal and see what happens. Also, for good measure, how old are your batteries and have you had them tested under a load to see if they are ok?

[Petergriffin]

Batteries are said to be 2014s. They look pretty good. Never load tested. I just held battery cable on 2 large posts on solenoid pressed gas and nothing still just a click. Thanks for your help

[scottyb]

Put the voltmeter test leads on the controller big B- and M-. When the solenoid just clicks you should read the same as the whole battery pack. keep pressing the gas pedal down and that voltage reading should go down near zero.

[Petergriffin]

Ok. Yes it started high and worked its way down close to 0 the more i pushed. Thanks

[scottyb]

So the throttle signal device and the controller are working. The problem is in the high amperage cables, the F&R switch, or the motor. Of these the F&R is the most likely suspect. Slam it into gear a few times and try to go..... no go? Tighten the 9/16 center nut 1/2 turn and re-try?

[Petergriffin]

Slammed and tightened..nothing. Still got the beep in reverse though. Is there a way to test it?

[scottyb]

Yes, A failed continuity test is definitive while a positive test is not because you can be reading a small bit of contact that cannot sustain a large flow.
Did you try rolling the cart a few feet and re-try? If it runs = bad motor brush contact.

[Petergriffin]

All read 0 with a beep on all 4 tests. Tried rolling back and forth switching. Etween forward and reverse and nothing. Dang this sucks.

[scottyb]

Solenoid clicks each time you try to go? Both directions? You may be getting a false positive continuity test. Re try the test under load, while trying to go?