good voltage cart won't move

[swsawyer@reagan.com]

Roger, will try that. Thanks.

[Role]

Having the same issue currently with a
2014 excel/Eric Club Car Precedent using the 600 Navitas Torque Controller with OTF programmer, MJZ solenoid.

Start up and status light blinks like normal, as soon as I move to forward or reverse and hit the pedal - NO movement followed by a weird sound and a bit of a beeper/pinball effect, followed by a double blinking green status light.

I've been thinking a lot about this and where the problem could be...

The solenoid has no diode nor a resistor, OR so it says according to Navitas Instruction Manual for the Club Car Application- verbatim "Remove pre-charge resistor from contactor and DISCARD"

Thinking further about this in my mind and replaying it all, I know the status light from start up and everything checks "Normal" with no error codes (small posts of the contactor for the key) - so that appears to be working properly and I'm getting the switched power needed.

Moving along - so where does it all take a turn for the worst? making a weird noise and I start to see a double blink status light?
Answer: RIGHT WHEN I HIT THE PEDAL ... leading to (the two large contact points of the solenoid) - this has to be where the problem lies.

Thus, for the Excel/ERIC 2014 Precedent model - I'm leaning towards a pre-charge resistor across the large contact points of the solenoid IS NECESSARY and NEEDED.

Backing up for a sec, I know for a fact IT IS NOT an MCOR, Key Issue, Battery Issue (new trojans), etc, etc.. Because right before installing this Upgraded Controller, the factory controller works beautifully.

Did I forget maybe a faulty new controller? Also NOT IT and I know this because I replaced the new controller with another new torque controller because I was told the first controller was bad via Navitas tech. I initially thought this was not the controller and just the solenoid, but nevertheless I didn't argue with the tech about his conclusion after we performed some test via the phone.

I suppose, I should put my theory to the test now and see if I'm way off OR Par for the Course!

Will update you guys with the end result here shortly!

Thoughts? Discussions? Answers? Brainstorm with me.

[mrgolf]

If you put your stock controller on and it works.

[Role]

Originally Posted by mrgolf

If you put your stock controller on and it works.

My feelings exactly .. putting a pre-charge resistor on now. Wish me luck!

[Role]

The results are in:

I was wrong regarding the pre-charge resistor. That wasn't causing the issue.
But I was correct about it having been the solenoid all along when the Navitas tech and I were troubleshooting.

The main issue is across the large contacts of the solenoid. So I decided to swap out the Solenoid with another new solenoid, this time a MJZ-400. VOLA! Works fine now.

The solenoid that I was using originally, Brand New SOL-200 amp 48 Volt which has a loaded rating for making and breaking 600amps.

The weird part is the SOL-200 works fine with the stock 1515-5206 white Curtis controller, but when used with the Navitas Torque 600 controller - it will not work, period. Strange it is, but I'm happy to have resolved it!

[WalterM6]

swsawyer, can you post the before and after pictures of the solenoid install?

[swsawyer@reagan.com]

Update: after wracking my brain and banging my head I cried uncle and took my cart to local dealer and asked him to make it work. When I get it back, will be glad to post an “after” pic.

[swsawyer@reagan.com]

Finally got my cart back today. All the mechanic said was that he installed the solenoid and everything worked fine. All I can deduce is that I must not have been holding my mouth just right, when I did it, ‘cause everything looks exactly the same. But,.... I did go ahead and have him install a set of 2g wires throughout. Only one quick test drive this afternoon, but all seems to be OK, now.