1999 club car ds won't move please read

[NoleFan4Ever]

Many times the Blue wire going to the controller will give less than pack voltage. It actually only needs >30v for the controller to defeat lockout. This was designed into the logic because of the voltage drop after going through the OBC (or so we were told way back when) The 2 carts I have here now have 32v and 33v respectively and lockout is not active.

[hansen13]

Okay that makes sense so I probe the White wire and am only getting 30V yet my pack voltage is 50.4V So maybe I will try and jump the pack voltage to the white wire and see if it makes a difference.

[hansen13]

okay so my roughly 30V to OBC from white wire shouldn't be a concern then? So I should also be getting that coming out at the blue wire once it goes through OBC

[hansen13]

So Key on the White wire to OBC is 34.6V and coming out at Blue wire is also 34.6V So I do feel confident about that being okay?

[Fairtax4me]

White Wire at the OBC should read Pack voltage. 50V in your case.
That wire comes from the Tow run switch, it splits somewhere in the harness where 48V is supplied to the Key switch on the Green wire, and 48V is supplied to the OBC on the white wire. If you have 48V at the Tow Switch, you should also have 48V at the OBC on the white wire.

Jumper 48V pack voltage to the white wire at/near the OBC and see if the cart starts working.

[Sergio]

I thought it was an old Regen model, in those the OBC powered most of the cart, not just the lockout.

The Blue wire powers the cart so if the White OBC input does not show pack voltage, jump power directly to the Blue wire.

The White wire was just a trigger, the OBC power comes from the fused Red wire.

[hansen13]

So I did jump the pack voltage to the blue wire, and now have 50.4V there. But now my issue is still the white wire, whichever one of you are correct on which does which, it still only has 35V through it.

[Sergio]

The OBC white wire comes directly from Tow/Run switch by the way of a splice (sonic-weld) where it splits to OBC and key switch.

If You have power on the blue wire, it should power the entire cart unless you have more sonic-weld issues as that blue wire also has a connection point where it splits power to the other wires.

At this point if the white wire has no/low power it only affects your ability to charge.

These old Regen carts were odd, the guys are 100% correct on how it works since those early OBC models, this one is just unique.

Assuming the OBC is working, start following the white wire from the OBC back into the harness until you find the splice and fix it.

Here is a high resolution wiring diagram for your system:

This is what a sonic-weld looks like:

[hansen13]

I will do that and post back. So my understanding is the white wire goes from OBC to tow/run switch and to the key, so where it splits there could be the culprit.

Also, what's a good check to ensure OBC is good. I've heard and been told that as long as the cart is taking a charge the OBC is functioning as it should.

[Fairtax4me]

My thinking was if the voltage on the white wire was low the OBC May not be powering the solenoids and controller via the Blue wire. Jumping 48v directly to the blue wire should now provide the controller pins, and solenoids with proper power regardless of the OBC working or not, and should then allow the controller to at least activate the solenoids.
Unless there’s some other function/signal that the OBC must provide to the controller, if you still have no solenoid activation, or no Ground for the solenoid via the blue/white stripe wire, then the controller is bad.

There very well could be something I’m missing, I’m not nearly as well educated in these systems as Sergio or Nole.