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Old 02-17-2020, 06:32 PM   #11
hotwls13
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

So here is an edited diagram. Basically operate the reducer (and all accessories) off of a switch installed in battery box. Run the 12v off reducer up to switch in dash that will turn on the lights. So essentially 2 switches to turn lights on. Not connected to ignition.

Then future use if accessories are added, I use the wiring going to dash light switch to power newly added fuse box then run everything off that.
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Old 02-17-2020, 08:08 PM   #12
hotwls13
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

I think I found the “black wire with yellow bullet connector”. Is this it circled in red??
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Old 02-17-2020, 08:32 PM   #13
yawood
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

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Originally Posted by hotwls13 View Post
Ok some questions and observations:

1. My 2008 DS doesn’t have channels under the rubber mat. There is a solid aluminum plate covering the whole floor/footwell. I ran the wires for my 48v volt meter under the floor, zip tied it so it wouldn’t sag. I imagine I will do the same for the other wires. That will be fine so long as they're well tucked up and secure.

2. I’m not sure what/where the yellow bullet connector is for -48. Do u have pics? You can see it in the pic above. What might look like a red wire connected to it actually has a black stripe.

3. I don’t have that blue connector coming off my +48 pack. I’ll have to add my own connection there. If you are talking about the +ve connection just put a ring terminal on it to connect directly to the battery. If you do it like I did in the pic above the pigtail on the fuse will connect to the battery with the ring terminal and your wire will connect to the other pigtail from the fuse.

4. I ordered everything I need (I think). My thinking is to mount the reducer in battery box under seat. That way I’m not running more 48v runs to the front of the cart. The reason I suggested the front is because then the only wires to be run are the 48V ones but if you plan on putting the switch at the back then it makes sense to mount the reducer at the back too.

5. I ordered a relay and was thinking of wiring it in following a diagram I got off here. You hadn't said that you wanted a relay which is why I described how to do it without one. To use a relay as well here's a diagram for it and some pics of mine.Did you get the 48V relay? The right one is the T9AP1D52-48 from Mouser Electronics or elsewhere. I mounted my relay behind thew dash as show in this pic.

6. If I was to put in a separate switch on the 48v side, I would want it near the battery box. Then only run 12v up to the dash/new 12v dash switch them out to the lights. That's fine but we just assumed you would want it on the dash.

7. By wiring like this, if in the future I decide to add any more 12v accessories, I could just add a fuse box near the new dash switch. Most accessories are going to be mounted near the front and controlled with switches up the front so it is best to mount a fuse box and negative buss up the front unless you're prepared for running lots of wires to the front for each accessory.

8. Main thing I’m confused about is where to run my -48 to reducer from. I’ve read a yellow/black obc wire?? Bullet connection?? Evidently needs to connect to obc so charging is correct. Just not sure what/where to tap into. I explained all that above. The precedent has the black wire with the yellow bullet connector which comes from the B- connector on the controller. If you don't have that connector then connect yours to the B- terminal on the controller.

9. I’ll write up my planned wiring diagram when I get a minute and post it. Here's two diagrams that I drew when I did mine. I did mine with the separate switch as well as the relay but you can ignore the switch and just come off the key as in the second diagram.

Thoughts?
If you use the separate switch as well as the relay, you can switch the reducer off even when the cart is running. If you don't use the separate switch and just have the relay then the reducer is on whenever the key is on.
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Old 02-17-2020, 08:35 PM   #14
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

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I think I found the “black wire with yellow bullet connector”. Is this it circled in red??
Yes
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Old 02-17-2020, 08:37 PM   #15
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotwls13 View Post
So here is an edited diagram. Basically operate the reducer (and all accessories) off of a switch installed in battery box. Run the 12v off reducer up to switch in dash that will turn on the lights. So essentially 2 switches to turn lights on. Not connected to ignition.

Then future use if accessories are added, I use the wiring going to dash light switch to power newly added fuse box then run everything off that.
The way you describe is fine but you will have to remember to flick the switch off each time you stop. If it is connected to the key switch then it turns off automatically when you switch the cart off.
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Old 02-18-2020, 09:01 AM   #16
hotwls13
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

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The way you describe is fine but you will have to remember to flick the switch off each time you stop. If it is connected to the key switch then it turns off automatically when you switch the cart off.
I have all the pieces/parts coming this week. Haven’t 100% decided on how I’m going to do it.

I get what you are saying about using the key to switch off the power to the reducer. That’s probably the cleanest.

I did like the other suggestion of adding a 48v toggle switch close to the +48v connection also.

When using the reducer it will only be for lights. So night time only. If I have 2 switches (one 48v side one 12v side) realistically I could just use the 48v one and leave the 12v on. The 12v one lights up but I’m not sure if it lights up when off or only when on.
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Old 02-18-2020, 10:08 AM   #17
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

For some reason I thought you were doing this on a precedent so things will be a bit different on the DS.

If using a relay you can get rid of the 48v switch altogether. The relay can draw power from the switched side of the key switch and will turn the reducer on when the key switch is on. You will need to make sure you have a suppression diode on the coil side of the relay so it doesn't damage other electronics that the key switch provides power for. Most 48v relays do not have a diode built in.

You'll then have a 12v switch on the dash for the lights on/off. You can also use the same 12v supply for the light switch to bring power to other switches if you decide to add other things later down the road. Just remember these reducers don't output unlimited current, so you need to be careful about how much power is being drawn from them or they can overheat, and/or let their magic smoke out.
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Old 02-18-2020, 11:20 AM   #18
hotwls13
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

Here is what is coming Today:

Relay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inline fuse holders:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

12v Dash Light Switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

20A Reducer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lights for headlights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lights for taillights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

48v Switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I really have no plans to add more 12v accessories. BUT, if I did, it would maybe be a USB charger.

I'm not sure how the diode is wired etc but it sounds like another piece I wasn't expecting. If I use the 48v switch, I don't need the diode or the relay, correct?

Obviously there are more ways to skin this cat. I just want it to be:

1. Safe and simple with the least wiring possible
2. I don't mind flipping 2 switches instead of one. Lights will be most likely a rarity but I don't want to be limited to daylight.
3. This cart will be used in short spurts around the block so to speak. Not traveling to destinations and parking, leaving the cart etc. It will be driven around then back home.
4. Most of the stuff I ordered comes with extras. In my experience most of the chinese stuff works but it's nice to have easily swappable spares. ;)
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Old 02-18-2020, 11:23 AM   #19
hotwls13
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

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Originally Posted by yawood View Post
If you use the separate switch as well as the relay, you can switch the reducer off even when the cart is running. If you don't use the separate switch and just have the relay then the reducer is on whenever the key is on.
Wouldn't this be a power savings? So only use the reducer at night when I need the lights. Otherwise daytime (most likely when this is used) the reducer isn't even on.
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Old 02-18-2020, 11:52 AM   #20
hawgsalot
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

Why use a relay if you're coming off the key side to power on the Voltage reducer?
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