TXT '01 PDS No solenoid click, reverse buzzer, and wont go

[jubal]

When I turn the key on and put it in forward or reverse I get full power at the battery meter (37.6 right now) but no reverse buzzer when in reverse.

The solenoid does not click when I press the pedal, but the underneath microswitch does click. I tested the white wire connecting to the ITS according to the manual and it has 0 volts with the pedal pressed down, so I am ordering a new one but I have my doubts that the ITS is my issue.

Last week I replaced the fwd/reverse switch, the solenoid, and the resistor, all to no effect. I have the reed switch bypassed, it does charge when I hook it up.

Do I have a dead controller? Whats my next step from here

Thank you

[jubal]

Looking at some old JohnnieB posts I've seen him say to check that B+ is present on all the red colored wires on the wiring schematic picture which shows checking certain posts at J1 on the controller.

I checked J1 and it looks like this:

1 37.6
2 -
3 36.9
4 37.6
5 37.6
6 -
7 36.9
8 36.9
9 36.9
10 -

I have no idea what this means. 7,8,9 all lead back to Key switch, I have 2 and swapped them out with no change in the voltage present at the controller.

The voltage at the pedal switch shows 36.8, one of them only showing that when the pedal is pressed.

[JohnnieB]

With Yellow and Blue wire off, check the continuity of the solenoid coil.

If it has continuity, your controller is bad.

[jubal]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

With Yellow and Blue wire off, check the continuity of the solenoid coil.

If it has continuity, your controller is bad.

Thanks big J!

No continuity. I assumed you meant with the cart turned off, in tow mode. No continuity that way at least.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jubal

Thanks big J!

No continuity. I assumed you meant with the cart turned off, in tow mode. No continuity that way at least.

Tow mode, yellow and blue wires disconnected. Measure continuity between the small solenoid studs the yellow and blue wires came off of.

If solenoid coil was intact, you should get pack voltage on J1 Pin-6 when there was pack voltage on J1 Pin-7 and pedal is not pushed.

[jubal]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Tow mode, yellow and blue wires disconnected. Measure continuity between the small solenoid studs the yellow and blue wires came off of.

If solenoid coil was intact, you should get pack voltage on J1 Pin-6 when there was pack voltage on J1 Pin-7 and pedal is not pushed.

Yep just double checked, with tow mode on and with both blue + yellow disconnected there was no continuity beep when checking the two small studs sticking off the front of the solenoid.

J1 pin 7 dropped by .1 since yesterday so its at 36.8 - J1 pin 6 is showing 36.6 without the pedal pushed. Pack voltage showing 37.5

[jubal]

Working on reverse buzzer. I put two new leads on it and it made sound. I got pack voltage at J1 pin 10 and J1 pin 2 with the cart in reverse. The manual says the only other thing it could be is "replace Logic Power".

What the hell is logic power?

[cgtech]

The Run/Tow switch?

[jubal]

Originally Posted by cgtech

The Run/Tow switch?

That's interesting. That wiring picture does show the run/tow switch at "Logic Supply" apparently.

The run/tow appears to be working though. When I flip it to tow the battery meter shuts off, when I flip it to run it kicks back on.

[kgsc]

Originally Posted by jubal

Yep just double checked, with tow mode on and with both blue + yellow disconnected there was no continuity beep when checking the two small studs sticking off the front of the solenoid.

J1 pin 7 dropped by .1 since yesterday so its at 36.8 - J1 pin 6 is showing 36.6 without the pedal pushed. Pack voltage showing 37.5

If you put it in tow, disconnected the yellow and blue wires from the solenoid, put your meter on ohms and then checked for continuity on the 2 small lugs and it failed the solenoid is bad.