Wires Touched, No Longer Runs

[Gjschisler]

I have started going the process of testing the pins. I am getting proper readings on some, improper on others. I mainly want to ensure I am checking properly. Does it matter from which "side" I back probe? For instance, should I be back probing through the harness side or the wire side, or does it matter? I would assume it would give me the same reading. On another note, how likely is it that it would be a burnt wire or pin compared to a failure of the key switch, etc?

[Gjschisler]

Also worth noting, I have an FSIP controller (Part Number 51-FX503G024).

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by Gjschisler

Also worth noting, I have an FSIP controller (Part Number 51-FX503G024).

It looks like and I am assuming that is the stock PDS controller which is for what I posted the instructions.

It really does not matter where you back probe as long as you test voltage on the wire with the plug connected to the controller (I can't see how you would backprobe from the pin side with the plug connected, but that would work if you can).

I always back probe where the wire connects to the plug. Just insert probe beside the wire into the back of the plug.

You should not be getting improper voltage on multiple pins. As JB said above, the controller is looking for input (voltage) from the Pedal Switch, The key switch, the F/R switch, the Run Tow Switch, and the charger interlock (reed switch). The controller will only activate sol when all of the above are true. Look closely at the diagram with the instructions.

If you want to post your numbers here, I, or someone here, will be happy to look at it and try to help you further.

[Gjschisler]

It is not a stock controller, however I would assume the voltages would still need to be the same regardless of controller?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Gjschisler

It is not a stock controller, however I would assume the voltages would still need to be the same regardless of controller?

Your assumption is correct for the voltage level, but not entirely so for which wires need to have voltage on them.

All the wires highlighted in red on the attached schematic for stock PDS controllers, including clones and upgrades in the stock case, should have full battery pack voltage (38.2V when fully charged) on them to get solenoid to activate.

Alltrax rerouted the voltage path through their XCT so a direction does not have to be selected on the F/R switch to get the solenoid to click.

Not sure about Navitas and other aftermarket replacements.

[Gjschisler]

So I am seeing that J1 Pin 1 is registering 0 when it should be pack voltage. It looks as though it is the middle wire going into the F/R switch.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Gjschisler

So I am seeing that J1 Pin 1 is registering 0 when it should be pack voltage. It looks as though it is the middle wire going into the F/R switch.

Correct.

Check voltages on J3 (goes to Run/Tow switch). All four pins should have pack voltage when Run/Tow switch is in Run.

[Gjschisler]

I checked J3 and all have pack voltage when switched to run.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Gjschisler

I checked J3 and all have pack voltage when switched to run.

That means there is an open between J3 PIn-4 and J1Pin-1.

Check the plug and jack terminals for J1 and J3 for burns. If they are in good condition, the problem is likely to be a burned open run on a PC Board inside the controller.

[Gjschisler]

So I just replaced the controller and it gave me the exact same problems. Could the terminals/pins be burnt out? How could I check that?