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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 01-21-2021, 02:31 PM   #11
BLK MAJK
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Default Re: 91 Marathon - Possible to adjust throttle POT?

I've been going back and forth with Alltrax on this and we still don't have a resolution, but I do have a couple more things to try today after work. There was some progress last night. So far we have done/tested:

- Verified throttle is set for 0-5k
- Moved black wire from J1 black pin on controller to B- : no change
- Turn off 'high pedal disable' : no change
- Set throttle type to USB : by doing this, I was able to push the pedal, the solenoid clicked and as I moved the slider on the laptop, the wheels accelerated accordingly. FINALLY some progress, and it shows that things on the control/motor side are correct.

Next steps: Today I am going to hook up an external 0-5k pot to the throttle signal and see how the controller reacts. I don't expect anything different because I have already confirmed that my stock pedal output is 0-5k.

One weird thing that is still confusing to me is that I only get the faults if the cart is in F or R. If its in neutral, the faults clear and I can actuate the pedal and watch it move on the graph in the software.

A couple things I noticed looking at the Alltrax print for the 'Pre 1994.5 EZGO Medalist' wiring diagram (DOC110-040):
- The microswitch numbers don't match the OEM EZGO print I have (Fig N-3) and EZGO shows them as all normally closed. Alltrax shows them all as normally open.
- The Alltrax print has a footnote that states "assumes footswitch is OPEN when throttle off". The EZGO print I have shows the switch as NORMALLY CLOSED
- The print shows that the controller should get power on the red J1 pin via the blue wire as soon as KSI is turned on. The tech I am working with believes (and the print for the 1995+ model EZGO agrees) show that the controller doesn't get power until you have KSI on, run switch on AND foot switch closed (pedal is pressed).

Having said all of this, I'm not sure how it makes a difference to the 0-5k throttle signal if I give the controller power at "KSI on" vs "KSI on + pedal on" but I figure I may as well try it. Also, the Alltrax print says its for Pre 1994.5 medalist carts, and mine is a marathon, but from everything I can gather, its the same cart with some minor cosmetic differences, but the wiring is all the same....is that wrong?
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Old 01-21-2021, 04:10 PM   #12
JohnnieB
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Default Re: 91 Marathon - Possible to adjust throttle POT?

Normally Closed means the contacts are closed when no external pressure is being applied to the switch's lever arm. For safety reason, EZGO used Normally Closed microswitches for most everything. To the best of my memory at the moment, the only Normally Open ones they used was for the Run and Reverse switches used on the later model DCS F/R switch assembly.

The Run and Reverse switches used on the series drive F/R switch assembly used in the Marathon, Medalist and TXT body style carts had a cam whose outer circumference had indentations in it so the NC switch's lever was released when that direction was slected, closing the NC contacts. The Run switch NC contacts were closed in both F and R, while the Reverse switch's NC contacts were only closed when R was selected.

The Reverse switch on Pot-Box throttle system had a double switch for R. One of them turned on the beeper and the other placed a fix 5kΩ resistor in parallel with the 0 to 5kΩ pot, making it a 0 to 2.5kΩ pot for 1/2 speed reverse. Later versions used a controller that had a 1/2 speed input and a 36V beeper rather than the original 6V beeper, so only one Reverse switch was needed to feed both the 1/2 speed pin on the controller and the 36V beeper.

The SR has a 1/2 speed input, so the double switch for R is not needed.

Yes, it does look like Alltrax mislabeled some switches in the pot-box throttle type schematic, but it doesn't matter what they are labeled, their functions are Run, Pedal and Reverse.

With the original wiring, to get the solenoid to click and the controller to power up, the Keyswitch's contacts have to be closed, the Run switch's contacts have to be closed and the pedal switch's contacts have to be closed, however it looks like Alltrax rewired the circuit so the controller powers up when the keyswitch is turned on. That is probably a good idea since turning an electronic device (controller) on and of every time you push or release the pedal isn't the smartest thing to do if you want said device to live long and prosper.

---------
Are you absolutely sure the controller is set to a 0-5kΩ throttle?

How many time does the LED flash green before it goes to steady green when you power it up in neutral. (Computer not connected to USB and B+ applied to Red (KSI) Jack?
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Old 01-21-2021, 06:39 PM   #13
BLK MAJK
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Default Re: 91 Marathon - Possible to adjust throttle POT?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
Normally Closed means the contacts are closed when no external pressure is being applied to the switch's lever arm. For safety reason, EZGO used Normally Closed microswitches for most everything. To the best of my memory at the moment, the only Normally Open ones they used was for the Run and Reverse switches used on the later model DCS F/R switch assembly.

The Run and Reverse switches used on the series drive F/R switch assembly used in the Marathon, Medalist and TXT body style carts had a cam whose outer circumference had indentations in it so the NC switch's lever was released when that direction was slected, closing the NC contacts. The Run switch NC contacts were closed in both F and R, while the Reverse switch's NC contacts were only closed when R was selected.

The Reverse switch on Pot-Box throttle system had a double switch for R. One of them turned on the beeper and the other placed a fix 5kΩ resistor in parallel with the 0 to 5kΩ pot, making it a 0 to 2.5kΩ pot for 1/2 speed reverse. Later versions used a controller that had a 1/2 speed input and a 36V beeper rather than the original 6V beeper, so only one Reverse switch was needed to feed both the 1/2 speed pin on the controller and the 36V beeper.

The SR has a 1/2 speed input, so the double switch for R is not needed.

Yes, it does look like Alltrax mislabeled some switches in the pot-box throttle type schematic, but it doesn't matter what they are labeled, their functions are Run, Pedal and Reverse.

With the original wiring, to get the solenoid to click and the controller to power up, the Keyswitch's contacts have to be closed, the Run switch's contacts have to be closed and the pedal switch's contacts have to be closed, however it looks like Alltrax rewired the circuit so the controller powers up when the keyswitch is turned on. That is probably a good idea since turning an electronic device (controller) on and of every time you push or release the pedal isn't the smartest thing to do if you want said device to live long and prosper.

---------
Are you absolutely sure the controller is set to a 0-5kΩ throttle?

How many time does the LED flash green before it goes to steady green when you power it up in neutral. (Computer not connected to USB and B+ applied to Red (KSI) Jack?

Thank you for the very thorough explanation, I believe we are on the same page. I am 100% positive the controller is set to 0-5k. At first power up, it flashes green once, then goes into the 1G, 3R sequence.

Having said that...ITS ALIVE . After talking with the tech he wanted me to try taking the pair of pot wires that went to the reverse switch and use them for throttle input. When I did this, the controller threw a different error. "Throttle Range Error". When I measured these wires with a meter, it showed a range of 4.7kohm-9.18kohm. I'm not sure what that's about because if I have them hooked up to the HD F&R the pair of wires that are supposed to be for throttle show correct behavior. 0-5k in forward and 0-2.5k in reverse. Just for good measure I tried hooking back up the original set of throttle input wires to the controller, left the "reverse" pair unhooked and to my surprise, NO FAULTS. I pushed the pedal...and it came to life! Obviously leaving the "reversing" wires unhooked means I don't have 50% reverse, but I think I can use the microswitch on the HD F&R to feed battery power to the "reverse" input on the J1 controller and do it that way. I was so happy I took it for a victory lap in the freezing cold . I do need to mess with the throttle curve as it is VERY touchy. Like I have to push the pedal about 30% until it starts to move and it will peel out on the garage floor . I also need to do some monitoring with the laptop hooked up. When I took it out to the road, I was only getting 18mph. I'm still on the stock motor, but with big tires, lithium pack, all new 2G wiring and a new controller I was anticipating at least low 20s, if not more.

I'm just glad I don't have a bad controller! Now to clean up the wiring and look into the 2 issues I mentioned. Thank you for all the help!!
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Old 01-21-2021, 07:44 PM   #14
JohnnieB
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Default Re: 91 Marathon - Possible to adjust throttle POT?

You may have to adjust the throttle linkage between the pedal and pot to get the Ohms to ramping up to match the pedal position, but do some checking first. Ohmmeter between the loose throttle wires at the controller and watch the increase as the pedal is bushed. AND you may have to adjust the pedal switch so the contact close just before the Ohms start ramping up.

Sounds a little like the pedal switch isn't closing until the pot has moved up some, so the controller comes on at partial throttle instead of 0% throttle.


Also, adjust the Throttle Rate in the SR down to about 10% or less, that controls how fast the controller reacts to pedal movement, the higher the % the faster it reacts. My cart is a considerably different animal, but I had to back way off on the throttle rate and play with the throttle linearity to get it not to spin the tires on grass. Halfway down on my pedal is only 30% throttle at the controller, allowing me to maneuver in tight places.

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I'd rewire the KSI circuit so the controller was turned on/off by the keyswitch, per the Alltrax schematic, and feed pack voltage to the controller's Blue - Reverse jack from the reverse switch on the F/R assembly for 1/2 speed reverse.

It'll most likely take quite a bit of tweaking to get it domesticated.
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