G9 smokes fouls plugs, possible top end oil delivery problem

[Rumblefish]

update: Cleaned oil delivery tube. No restrictions when i blew a little air thru it, air came out through oil filler neck tube.

In the meantime I was looking for a reason why it was backfiring through the carb and someone else mentioned that if you had a bad ground this would happen. I found the black wire of the three wires (red/white and black/white) that go from the cdi to the engine block had got hot and burnt up. What could have caused this?

[Mike Mac]

Fish, I couldn't tell ya, but Smallblock could! But after you repaired the wire, does the car run? ( bet it does). And does it have oil pressure?
It is Smallblock that I learned those trouble shooting steps. Just came to mind as I was reading this thread over. Thanks Block!

[sho305]

Most of the time oil burning is the oil ring went bad, that is often from hours on the engine. It will still run ok even have good compression. I was told the G2 has higher compression than the G9, they progressively lowered compression over the years to run cheaper gas. Make sure if lifted you don't overfill oil, put one quart in and that level is the full level. IIRC the valve in the line at front of cylinder comes off the crank signal for the fuel pump, I think that helps pump the oil up but forget exactly how it works. Yeah mine leaked what a mess used a whole can of brake clean getting the fins clean.

I'm putting in a clone, I did another G9 last summer I don't like how the carb works its not perfect but power is double the cart is a riot to run I can't wait. Did that one with stock clutch and starter, it works great that way just use the CPP adaptor. The clutch shifts a little better with more power and it rips up hills. The only issue is it will not rev much higher for more speed, with my cart going to try advancing the timing and milling the head and see if that helps. 98% of the time I don't run it over 25mph anyway. It will run 30mph gps down a road stock, eventually, and about the same with the clone. It may run a hair faster it seemed to be breaking in at end of summer but didn't get a chance to gps again.

[DOOmsman]

Two things, the loose tappets will cause some oil burning.
Valve not open and oil is sucked up around rings.

Is this still unconected,
checked the one-way vacuum valve per the instructions in the service manual. All hoses sealed up good and i even blocked off the top vent that runs to the air filter cover.

[Rumblefish]

Good point. The cart does have a LOT of hours on it before we got it, it was used by maintenance to run around an apartment complex.

Also I rechecked compression after tightening the tappets and it was still 175psi.

I reconnected what used to be the black wire, and when tried to start the motor it got red hot, burnt the remaining insulation off that wire and it would not stop cranking until it burnt in two! I had completely let off the acc pedal and the starter was still trying to turn.

Now I don't have any spark at all, where i think it was out of timing before, popping back through carb. I called it a night after that and put the battery on charge. I looked at the wiring diagram and see there are two fuses, where are these?

I did reconnect all of the hoses, put the airbox back on so that the motor had all the "normal" vacuum, but still no oil in the delivery line.

[sho305]

Fuses are on the fender near the secondary (large diameter) trans clutch. Sounds like wiring is not right or solenoid is stuck? I'd be surprised if the timing was off, unless the ignitor was bad and they are expensive. That is the black box on the fuel tank, best to swap that to test before buying, its kind of like a CDI.

Find out what that wire is, burning wires is not good at all.

You can foul plugs in these with the airbox off, they can even look clean and not work, I had that. Get a new plug and try it. Sometimes they will fire a bad plug if you pull the plug boot part way off to create a gap to the plug. Best to pick up a spark tester they are ~$5 at autozone and very easy to use.

It may well have to run at some rpm to pump oil, since there is not a real pump far as I know its just splash lube on the bottom end.

[Rumblefish]

Checked fuse (only one on the G9A wiring diagram). If it were bad or disconnected, the starter motor wouldn't turn.

It was the black wire going from the pickup inside the motor back to the ignitor box that melted in two.

Still no spark.

[sho305]

Burning wire, that reminds me make double sure your ground wires are good and its not trying to ground through another wire. Its very common with these old carts to have wiring connection issues and they do not have common ground. Every ground is wired back to the battery have to check them. Of course if the starter works you know that one is working.

[Rumblefish]

I did a bit of testing today and found that the starter housing and the motor made was about 5-6 volts higher than the battery ground when cranking.

I looked at the ground wire going to the starter teminal, the small wire going to the frame near the starter solinoid, then the ground going to the coil, and the one that used to go to the pickup. All ohmed out ok.

I ran a ground from the battery to a bolt on the motor. I got spark! It started right up, ran great, until i rode it to the end of the driveway, then the starter continued to run on and would not stop even when i cut the key! Then the new ground wire i put on started to smoke and started to catch fire. I luckily had a pair of plyers in the cart, grabbed the wire and ripped it off the battery.

Does anyone have any idea why this happened? Do i have a bad solinoid that's grounding out or is it the starter/generator that's bad?

[Rumblefish]

Here's a picture of the wiring... Is something hooked up wrong that i'm not catching? Thanks Guys!