48 to 12 volt reducer

trigger1937 · 10-12-2011, 10:41 PM

Steve3201,... How are the outputs of your converter labelled?,..and which output wire did you connect to the Blue wire in the bucket. Did you also connect the ground of the converter to the ground in the cart????

Stevec3201 · 10-13-2011, 08:48 AM

+ and -. That OEM harness is a P_I_T_A to deal with! My tow run switch is also not working, so I put a temp. on. Put the lights back to stock, until I can figure it out.

Yes, I connected the neg to the black wire and pos to the blue wire coming from the harness in the divider.

erict · 10-13-2011, 08:59 AM

Here is a pic of Steve's converter.

IMG_0061.jpg

erict · 10-13-2011, 09:17 AM

That yellow wire is part of the oem harness (divider) that provides ground to the harness in the dash. The ground comes from the neg on the controller and if I didn't dissconnect it, I would have lots of sparks, as I already have ground from the converter. Trust me, I learned the hard way. Luckely, it only blew a fuse

That is a quote above from Steves thread here...http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post633816

What I wonder is if the yellow wire was a ground why did it spark when you connect the converters ground? I also wonder if you leave the yellow wire connected and do not connect the converters output ground and leave the ground wire in the harness intact that the lights would work since its grounded back the the batteries anyways through the factory harness? So you would only be using the output pos on the converter to connect to the blue wire which feeds your lights.

trigger1937 · 10-13-2011, 09:38 AM

I suggest that you forget the harness wiring until you test the converter by itself. All you need to two wires to do that and a volt meter. Connect the +48 and ground directly from the batteries to the +B and the -B of the converter and then measure the output at the +12 and -12 on the converter. This will first prove the converter is working.

Stevec3201 · 10-13-2011, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trigger1937

I suggest that you forget the harness wiring until you test the converter by itself. All you need to two wires to do that and a volt meter. Connect the +48 and ground directly from the batteries to the +B and the -B of the converter and then measure the output at the +12 and -12 on the converter. This will first prove the converter is working.

The converter works perfect. The problem is somewhere in the harness. If I bypass the harness, all is good. Also, I have to get some connectors and a decent tow/run switch. I should have an oem tow/run switch in a day or two.

trigger1937 · 10-13-2011, 03:13 PM

Steve,...There are only two wires in the harness that connect to anything in the bucket. One is Blue and that connects to the +12. The other is black with a yellow bullet plug and that plugs into the yellow connector coming out of the controller. The end of the bucket harness has a 12 pin connector, which contains all kinds of break outs. The wiring depends on wheather you have the +48 volt realy inside the DASH. The purpose of the 48 volt relay is to be energized when the key switch is on. The relay then passes +12 volts out of the blue wire on to all things in the dash, such as the light switch, buzzer, etc. If you are in doubt about the bucket harness then you can trace the wires via VOM meter for continuity. I am assuming that your 2007 CC came with th bucket harness and I doubt if anything is wrong with that. I suspect something inside the Dash is not connected right.

There is no way to attach a file on this web site so if you send me an email I will send you a couple of pdf files showing the schematic and the bucker harness connections.

gornoman · 10-13-2011, 05:36 PM

PDF files can be attached to a post.

I think.

gornoman · 10-13-2011, 05:40 PM

Filetype Max Filesize Max Width Max Height
bmp 19.5 KB 620 280
doc 1.91 MB - -
gif 195.3 KB 1024 768
jpe 19.5 KB 620 280
jpeg 1.91 MB 2048 1024
jpg 1.91 MB 2048 1024
pdf 19.07 MB - -
png 195.3 KB 1024 768
psd 19.5 KB - -
swf 20.00 MB - -
txt 19.5 KB - -
zip 9.54 MB - -

trigger1937 · 10-13-2011, 06:52 PM

Gornoman,..It only took me three days to figure out how to create and album, upload pictures and link the pictures to one of my post. I still have not been able to reduce the image to a thumb nail image. So,.. without further information from you,.. it should only take me a couple of days to find out how to attach a file.

10-12-2011, 10:41 PM	#21
trigger1937 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 230	Re: 48 to 12 volt reducer Steve3201,... How are the outputs of your converter labelled?,..and which output wire did you connect to the Blue wire in the bucket. Did you also connect the ground of the converter to the ground in the cart????
trigger1937 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 230

10-13-2011, 08:48 AM	#22
Stevec3201 haveacupofshutthe****up Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Viera, FL Posts: 739	Re: 48 to 12 volt reducer + and -. That OEM harness is a P_I_T_A to deal with! My tow run switch is also not working, so I put a temp. on. Put the lights back to stock, until I can figure it out. Yes, I connected the neg to the black wire and pos to the blue wire coming from the harness in the divider.

10-13-2011, 08:59 AM	#23
erict Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: East Michigan Posts: 1,364	Re: 48 to 12 volt reducer Here is a pic of Steve's converter. IMG_0061.jpg

10-13-2011, 09:17 AM	#24
erict Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: East Michigan Posts: 1,364	Re: 48 to 12 volt reducer That yellow wire is part of the oem harness (divider) that provides ground to the harness in the dash. The ground comes from the neg on the controller and if I didn't dissconnect it, I would have lots of sparks, as I already have ground from the converter. Trust me, I learned the hard way. Luckely, it only blew a fuse That is a quote above from Steves thread here...http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post633816 What I wonder is if the yellow wire was a ground why did it spark when you connect the converters ground? I also wonder if you leave the yellow wire connected and do not connect the converters output ground and leave the ground wire in the harness intact that the lights would work since its grounded back the the batteries anyways through the factory harness? So you would only be using the output pos on the converter to connect to the blue wire which feeds your lights.

10-13-2011, 09:38 AM	#25
trigger1937 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 230	Re: 48 to 12 volt reducer I suggest that you forget the harness wiring until you test the converter by itself. All you need to two wires to do that and a volt meter. Connect the +48 and ground directly from the batteries to the +B and the -B of the converter and then measure the output at the +12 and -12 on the converter. This will first prove the converter is working.
trigger1937 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 230

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10-13-2011, 03:13 PM	#27
trigger1937 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 230	Re: 48 to 12 volt reducer Steve,...There are only two wires in the harness that connect to anything in the bucket. One is Blue and that connects to the +12. The other is black with a yellow bullet plug and that plugs into the yellow connector coming out of the controller. The end of the bucket harness has a 12 pin connector, which contains all kinds of break outs. The wiring depends on wheather you have the +48 volt realy inside the DASH. The purpose of the 48 volt relay is to be energized when the key switch is on. The relay then passes +12 volts out of the blue wire on to all things in the dash, such as the light switch, buzzer, etc. If you are in doubt about the bucket harness then you can trace the wires via VOM meter for continuity. I am assuming that your 2007 CC came with th bucket harness and I doubt if anything is wrong with that. I suspect something inside the Dash is not connected right. There is no way to attach a file on this web site so if you send me an email I will send you a couple of pdf files showing the schematic and the bucker harness connections.
trigger1937 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 230

10-13-2011, 05:36 PM	#28
gornoman Stay thirsty my friends! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Suburban Chicago Posts: 24,292	Re: 48 to 12 volt reducer PDF files can be attached to a post. I think.

10-13-2011, 05:40 PM	#29
gornoman Stay thirsty my friends! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Suburban Chicago Posts: 24,292	Re: 48 to 12 volt reducer Filetype Max Filesize Max Width Max Height bmp 19.5 KB 620 280 doc 1.91 MB - - gif 195.3 KB 1024 768 jpe 19.5 KB 620 280 jpeg 1.91 MB 2048 1024 jpg 1.91 MB 2048 1024 pdf 19.07 MB - - png 195.3 KB 1024 768 psd 19.5 KB - - swf 20.00 MB - - txt 19.5 KB - - zip 9.54 MB - -

10-13-2011, 06:52 PM	#30
trigger1937 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 230	Re: 48 to 12 volt reducer Gornoman,..It only took me three days to figure out how to create and album, upload pictures and link the pictures to one of my post. I still have not been able to reduce the image to a thumb nail image. So,.. without further information from you,.. it should only take me a couple of days to find out how to attach a file.
trigger1937 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 230

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