new paint job

[dodgefather]

Does anyone know if you should wet sand before or after you spray the primer? Thanks

[plantman]

I just used a air orbital sander with 400 grit i think.

[jwise]

if its plastic, get a system of paint for plastic and read the liturature for the product. i know fusion spray paint sticks to plastic. with sherwin willams auto you would use an adhesion promoter or adhesion sealer for plastic. they have recommendatons for plastic painting and for prep work online, jim

[rancho]

Looks great - have a question though-talked to local dealer/repair shop for carts today, and they said that you may encounter an issue with the body paint if you don't us a chemical to clean and then add to the paint due to the body not being made of fiberglass, but a plastic material. Anyone aware of this, or are they just trying to get the business from me versus me doing it myself?

[pggroves]

rancho, read the post from jwise just before yours. I believe that post answers your question.

[jwise]

hi guys, i checked with sherwin williams i can recomend you go to there web site i think its sherwin williams auto.com but just goggle it. there is a section called best practices. look for plastic refinish , it explains how to check the plastic to identify it, how to prep it and paint it. napa sells martin senior same stuff differnt web site same info with different numbers. its not going to be cheap to buy but it will tell you the principals of prep and painting for free so go to the web sites and report back ill help were i can. if you all were here id arrange a class and show you. its the same basics for spray cans jim

[gonfast38]

Each brand of automotive paint has it's own complete system of primers, sealers, additives, colors and clears. If you go that route, it's important to follow the recommended instructions on prep, mixing and application. Dodgefather, read the instructions on the primer. Some primers allow colorcoat without sanding within certain time periods. Some require sanding with specific grit of sandpaper.

Important note. Most automotive paints are catalyzed. you have to add an activator or hardener. USE A RESPIRATOR!!!!! Yes, you have two lungs, but you will ruin both. You can get disposable respirators for $30 or so. Get one that is compatible with your paint system. Your dealer should be able to help you.

Soon this will be all for nothing. If the Gov't gets its way, in the next year or so all paint will be waterborn.

[Harleypaw]

I used Car Quest for all my paint and supplies, I'm not a body work or painter so my local paint supplier was very helpful in what steps to take.

1. Wash the body with something like dawn dish washing liq soap
2. Use a cleaner made for your paint type (your supplier can advise)
3. Sand body lightly with DA sander and 200 grit, try to remove all shine and not go through the paint to plastic.
4. Do any body repairs you will need to do, for this step you'll need to sand down to clean plastic, make repairs with a two part epoxy for plastic.
5. Block sand with 200 grit any repairs and the remaining high/low spots in the body.
6. Wash body with dawn soap
7. Clean body with cleaner made for your paint type.
8. Use a spray adhesion to all parts of the body that plastic is visable, let it flash.
9. If your using a wet on wet system, spray 2 coats of sealer, let it flash from 30 mins to 1 hour acording to temps. follow with your base (color) with 2 coats, let it flash for same time period. follow with clear coat, clear is very thin so reduce the amount of product you paint gun put out.

For what I feel you get a better job is to follow steps 1 thru 8
9. Spray 2 coats of primer heavy spray(primer and sealer are much the same just thinned different) let it dry, follow the time to dry on the primer can.
Don't worry to much about mistakes your going to sand anyway.This step you primer after it dries will look pretty bad with orange peel and a rough feel. Now block sand with 400 grit, be careful not to sand through the primer, just remove all orange peel and rough feeling. (remember if you can feel or see it here, you'll see it a lot better after your paint) so make sure it's slick.
10. Wash with dawn, let dry completly.(you don't want water in your paint)
11. Tack using a tack rag.
12. Spray at least two coats of base (color) let it tack (10 to 15 mins between coats)
13. Let the base coat flash 30min to 1 hour
14. spray clear, this is up to you on how many coats, clear is difficult to spray so if you get the shine you want after 2 coats. Quit!!!! the more you try to add, the more chances of getting a run or over spray.

Again, my cart was the first thing I have ever painted, so I used the advise of some good friends and my local paint supplier. Take your time, go slow, make sure your prep work is right, and you'll love the end results.

The above guidelines may not be completly correct so feel free to add or correct, it's just the best an amature like myself can come up with.

[jwise]

200 grit is way to ruff on plastic. if you sand on the back side and it powders up sand it with 800 if you are not going to primer. if you are going to primer it sand with 400 finish body work in 180. adhesion primer then fill prime. if its gummy plastic dont sand it yet light scuffing not heavy scratches. it will be fuzzy and make the primer ruff. ill try to take photos and post them of a cowl im going to do soon from repair to primer then to paint. post the brand of car quest paint. jim

[scrunner]

i know this is an old thread, but just wanted to see if yard man is still out there to give any feedback as to the longevity of his paint. it sounds like he did the short method (wash, sand lightly, tape, paint) vs. the longer method described after the OP.

anyone else have any feedback on the short version? I would like to paint mine for a temporary fix till I get up the money and nerve to pick up a new body.