Battery Cable upgrade/OBC bypass

[Sergio]

The fuse is most likely blown, so You will need a 15 amp fuse.

By the way, the OBC power is before the fuse so it will still charge.

Do You have a voltage converter?

If not You need one but make sure you did not put the accessory +12v blue wire on the +48v pack positive battery post.

[Randy L]

I believe the blue accessory is attached to the positive on battery #3. is the fuse behind the Run/Tow switch an inline fuse? Thanks for taking the time to help me out, I'm flying blind here.

[Randy L]

It's a miracle!! I was just about to remove the 3 and 4 batteries from my cart so that I could check the fuse behind the Run/Tow switch when I pushed down on reverse and low and behold the cart started buzzing. I put it in forward and I could drive it around the driveway. I checked the lights and the front lights did not come on but the tail lights did, probably a fuse. Is it possible that by attaching the charger and letting it complete the charge cycle that it fixed the problem or do I have a phantom loose connection somewhere

[Sergio]

After you connected the pack back, the OBC needed a "start" signal.

There are two possible valid "signals":

1) Press the accelerator pedal.
2) Plug in the charger so the OBC detects it.

I would look for loose connections or pinched wires under the batteries.

Also, pack positive is called battery #1.

So positive of battery #3 would be +32v.

You really should get a 48v->12v reducer to increase the longevity of your entire battery pack.

[Randy L]

My 2008 Precedent actually has a Phantom body on it. Guess they probably wired it directly to the battery pack. Is the voltage reducer located behind the dash? Is there a fuse for the front headlights since they don't work but the tail lights do. Thanks again!

[Sergio]

Did You take pictures of the pack connections before disconnecting?

If You have LED rear lights they may take the high voltage for a while before failing.

Headlight halogen bulbs would burn out pretty quick at 32v.

If You have a voltage converter it would be connected to +48v.

If You have the old style 16v->12v reducer it would be connected to 16v.

I have never seen anything running OFF 32v.

Disconnect the wire to your headlight and measure the voltage it is getting when the light switch ON.

[Randy L]

IMG_0083.jpg

IMG_0084.jpg

IMG_0085.jpg

One of the pics is of the whole battery pack, the next batteries 1-3, battery 1 has the red wire from the selinoid and a red 10ga cable (not sure where that came from)and a pig tale. Battery 3 is where the blue wire is attached. These are the after pictures, if necessary I will also post the before pictures

[Randy L]

These are some of the pictures before I removed the old cables. One picture is a close up of battery 3 and 4 showing the blue accessory cable attached. The other picture shows mainly battery 1 with the 10ga cable, pig tale and main cable.IMG_0076.jpg IMG_0079.jpg

[yawood]

In the first picture in Post #36 if the red small gauge wire from Battery 1 +ve and the black small gauge wire from Battery 3 +ve (which is effectively Battery 2 -ve) go to your reducer then you have a 16V reducer because you are taking power from the first two batteries.

As Sergio said, it would be better to replace that with a 48V reducer because the current arrangement always pulls more power from the first two batteries than the other four thus unbalancing the pack.

For a 16V reducer the wiring looks fine.

[Randy L]

In regards to battery 3 the black pig tale is actually connected to a blue wire. Sergio asked me to get a voltage reading from the headlight connection and it was between 30 and 32volts. I wonder why the lights worked before the cable conversion but now they don't. When I first turned them on before charging the pack they flashed for a spit second and now nothing. I haven't found a fuse so the lamps must have been blown. Nice meeting you yawed, how are things down under?