1995 CC DS headlight wiring question

[TimOub007]

I bought what I think is a 1995 DS last weekend. The serial number is A9547-474966.

There are two serial number plates right next to each other. One is a metal plate with the numbers stamped in it and then next to it is another that is more like a sticker and it has a bar code under the numbers.

This cart is already lifted, with a windshield, aluminum rear flip seat, headlight/taillight kit (not turn signals or brake lights) and batteries bought earlier this month. I am starting to dig in to the wiring and have some questions. The headlights are tied in to two of the 8 volt batteries and a quick volt meter test across the fuse and ground showed 17.6 volts in the wiring.

My questions are: Did/Does someone make a "16 volt" headlight kit or did someone take a shortcut and hooked up the 12 volt kit to more voltage?

I have on order a 48 volt to 12 volt converter so I can put in a proper 12 volt system. I hope the parts arrive today so I can work on it this weekend.

Should I rewire the headlight kit to my new fuse block? If I do, will the lights be dimmer than on 16+ volts? I know that using the entire battery pack is better overall and I will get that converter hooked up to run other accessories.

This cart will be a hunting rig and I'm looking for a good way to mount a hitch to hold a road corn feeder. My rear seat is all aluminum so I don't think putting a hitch on the floor plate is a good idea. I am considering getting a brush guard, hitch, basket combo for the front end. Are these usually just attached with the two bolts through the front bumper?

Thanks for help, especially on the electrical.
Tim

[Stevegrmich]

1. It is a 95 CC based on serial #.

2. Probably not a 16v headlight system . . pull a bulb from headlight and look at rating. They are probably VERY bright. Previous owner hooked up to 2 8v batteries because 1 battery made lights too dim.

3. Hook up 48-12v converter/reducer, run it to fuse block, tie light kit into proper 12v supply from fuse block . . .

4. Above all, remember to put unit into TOW MODE (if it has the TOW/RUN switch under seat) whenever working on ANY electrical component. After putting into TOW mode, then remove main + and - battery cables before proceeding to connect your reducer and wiring headlights, etc.

5. Have fun and welcome to BGW . . .

[TimOub007]

Thanks for the reply Steve. This model doesn't have the Tow/Run switch but I'll be sure to disconnect the battery pack when I start this project.

T

[Stevegrmich]

Originally Posted by TimOub007

Thanks for the reply Steve. This model doesn't have the Tow/Run switch but I'll be sure to disconnect the battery pack when I start this project.

T

. . .

[shadowman]

Originally Posted by TimOub007

Thanks for the reply Steve. This model doesn't have the Tow/Run switch but I'll be sure to disconnect the battery pack when I start this project.

T

it won,t have a run/tow switch and make certain you disconnect main pos and neg cables before doing anything......................

[TimOub007]

Thank you both.

I've been working on it for the last few days. I got my fuse block that I ordered installed, the lights rewired in to it, a couple of 12 volt power outlets wired up to it and I added an overhead light also on the fuse block.

I'm still waiting on the FedEx guy to bring my voltage reducer so I can finish up the job though.

The lights were just tied in to two of the 8 volt batteries by the way. Sure a lot brighter than on just one battery.

Tim

[Stevegrmich]

. . .