Looking for a 48V to 12V Converter

[Down South]

I know this has been beat to death and I "Have" used the search function and found many threads dealing with this.

My cart is in my Sig.

I want to install a 48V-12V 30A converter and I am looking at the one in the link posted below. This converter is an isolated five wire converter. It appears that the green wire can be wired through the key switch to kill power to the converter when the cart is not in use.

Does this sound right to you guys?

Any comment would be appreciated.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conver...item19c24b6606

I don't quite understand the statement at the bottom of the link "Quoted Below" unless it is referring to wiring the converter up wrong..... Any Ideas?

Note：It will cause problem when disconnecting the output as input.

On edit, I will consider other converters if someone thinks they know of one that is as good or would perform better.

Thanks, Sam

[1BDPRECEDENT]

I have posted a link below to the converter that I have been running in my cart for the last year or so. It has done a wonderful job and I promise you it has its work cut out for it. It is rated at 30A and also has a key switch input to turn it on & off.

http://parts.diversifiedgolfcars.com...converter.aspx

[Stevec3201]

Originally Posted by Down South

I know this has been beat to death and I "Have" used the search function and found many threads dealing with this.

My cart is in my Sig.

I want to install a 48V-12V 30A converter and I am looking at the one in the link posted below. This converter is an isolated five wire converter. It appears that the green wire can be wired through the key switch to kill power to the converter when the cart is not in use.

Does this sound right to you guys?

Any comment would be appreciated.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conver...item19c24b6606

I don't quite understand the statement at the bottom of the link "Quoted Below" unless it is referring to wiring the converter up wrong..... Any Ideas?



On edit, I will consider other converters if someone thinks they know of one that is as good or would perform better.

Thanks, Sam

"I don't quite understand the statement at the bottom of the link "Quoted Below" unless it is referring to wiring the converter up wrong..... Any Ideas?"

You are correct

I'm happy with mine as well. It is stainless steel and sealed. The heat fins are on one side, but doesn't get that warm anyway. It is made in Taiwain, not China. and appears to be of high quality. I bought it from a sponsor so returning it would not be a problem. I had a coupon and free shipping as well. It is only 25 amps.

http://www.everythingcarts.com/p-115...2v-25-amp.aspx

Good luck!

[Stevegrmich]

They type in broken English . . that eBay listing is from China . . buy from a US vendor (even if unit is built in Asia) so if you have issues, you can at least call them . . .

[scottyb]

Have you ever had to return something to China in the original box for replacement 6 months after you got it, yeah I got the box???

[Stevec3201]

Originally Posted by Stevegrmich

They type in broken English . . that eBay listing is from China . . buy from a US vendor (even if unit is built in Asia) so if you have issues, you can at least call them . . .

Solid advice!

[Down South]

Yeah, I noticed the broken English too and it did throw a flag. I liked the idea of the isolated converter with a wire that would work in conjunction with my key switch.

I need a good converter soon especially since DST has ended. Right now my lights are running from #4 battery and I can already see that the battery is not charging as full as the other three.
I ride around the park a lot during the evening and now I have to burn my lights even more with shorter days and it getting dark an hour earlier.
I’ll look at some of the converters that you guys are recommending.

[simple man]

I know this isn't a cure all, but you can use an automotive charger to bring up the battery you use for your lights before charging the whole pack. You could also switch batteries in the pack to help balance the use.

I don't know if you can just change which battery the tap is taken from ( without moving batteries ) as your lights may have a ground to the body. I know they're not supposed to, but you never know what someone else did! Changing the position of the tap in that case would have bad consequences!

[Down South]

Originally Posted by simple man

I know this isn't a cure all, but you can use an automotive charger to bring up the battery you use for your lights before charging the whole pack. You could also switch batteries in the pack to help balance the use.

I don't know if you can just change which battery the tap is taken from ( without moving batteries ) as your lights may have a ground to the body. I know they're not supposed to, but you never know what someone else did! Changing the position of the tap in that case would have bad consequences!

The cart was factory from a golf course when I bought it. All of the upgrades including the light kit, I did myself so the wiring is factory. There should not be any grounds to frame unless CC changed something that I don't know about. The lights plug into the factory wiring harness.
That is an idea to charge #4 battery before plugging up the 48V charger.

[erict]

Originally Posted by Down South

The cart was factory from a golf course when I bought it. All of the upgrades including the light kit, I did myself so the wiring is factory. There should not be any grounds to frame unless CC changed something that I don't know about. The lights plug into the factory wiring harness.
That is an idea to charge #4 battery before plugging up the 48V charger.

The question would be for how long would one leave it on the charger? Would you charge it all the way?