Brake Problems

[Tom G.]

Restoring a 60's Flagmaster Cart.
The right brake grabs.
It has a hydraulic brake system, all new parts.
Master cyl, wheel cyls., lines and pads.
I've tried to ruff up the pad that don't help.
I'll take the drum off - clean and blow out, maybe work good for a couple tries.
I'm lost.

[ogre'sdad]

I had the same problem with mu old cusshman and found that by adjusting the brake as you would in a car the haydraulic pressure tended to operat the one clisest to the master cylinder. I was able to use the e-brake cable to make the gross adjustment and dial in the hydralics after. There is not a lot tof travle in the wheel cylinders do the major slack is taken up by a cam adjustment and cable adjustment to pull things into operation or, use an anchor. Let us know how this goes or post a couple of pics and we'll put our collective 7 braincells together and figue it out. Welcome to the forum.

[rusty]

Welcome to the forum Tom G....................

[Tom G.]

I have tryed adjustment.
It has a star adjustment for each pad.
Spring at top and bottom of pads.
Everything has been replaced, pads, wheels and master cyl. and lines.
It is missing cable for the e-brake so the hardware has been taken off.
I didn't think that would make any diifference.
Tried again today - still right wheel - bangs and locks up, will release and bangs again when apply the petal.
Even switch the brake pads, no difference.

[ogre'sdad]

Howy, I am basing my post on this, from another forum, but it does say that the e-brake cable is integral to the adustment.Year I would say has a lot to do with it. Ezgos have had brake problems fo years.

"Even the local ezgo dealer here adjusts the brakes wrong.

Getting the brakes adjusted properly is not really that hard. if you have a hard pedal and still no brakes, loosen the brake cable adjustment all the way. Remove the brake drums and clean out all the brake dust. With some spray lube, lube the slider that the brakes ride on.

if it is a later model car, 1987 and up move the star wheel by hand so that the brake cable free play at the brake backing plate is 1/8th of an inch, thats right, not much.

It may seem like the brake drum will not fit on right, but it will, then do your brake cable adjustment. if you don't loosen the brake cables first, it will throw your whole adjustment off.

There are more things that I do, and look at, but i wouldn't know how to type it in so all would understand. But a least now, you have a better way to adjust the brakes. "

_________________

[EZ-GOnewild]

In a hydraulic brake system you have to have all of the air out of the cylinders and lines. I would bleed them again and make sure all of the air is out. Start with the master cylinder and then the right rear and finally the left rear. I suspect that the left rear has some air in it somewhere thus making the right rear do all of the work and eventually locking up. Just my 2 cents worth...

[Tom G.]

Brake petal is not the problem.
The problem is the right brake bangs on and grabs , you can hear and feel the bang. It dose release.
There is no slider or cables.
The pads are held with a spring at top and bottom.
The system is the same as older cars and trucks.
Except there is a star adjuster for each pad.
I have adjusted, cleaned, till I'm nuts.
There must be a curse.
Attached photo of one brake before everything was replaced, star adjuster is at bottom.

[rusty]

You may need to hone each wheel cylinder.......

Yep with a hone from any automotive store. It allows the plunger and cups to travel smoothly throughout the cylindar without bumping to a stop where the wear has always been.

[EZ-GOnewild]

Originally Posted by rusty

You may need to hone each wheel cylinder.......

Yep with a hone from any automotive store. It allows the plunger and cups to travel smoothly throughout the cylindar without bumping to a stop where the wear has always been.

This is true but at the top of this post he said that the wheel cylinders were replaced with new ones.

Did you flush the lines before installing the new cylinders?

[Tom G.]

I replaced the line from the new master cyl.
Also replaced the rubber line,that leads in to a T.
That T has the lines that lead to left and right wheel cyls.
Wheel cyls. were replaced with orginal recondition about 3 months ago,
also 2 days ago.
The 2 lines from the T were taken off and blown out with 90psc.
As of now I'm checking in MORE bleeding.
and put the orginal cap on the new master cyl becase of clearance.
Going to try new cap and the bleed till my hand dose.