1996 G14 burns oil.

[rlester]

Hi All,

Just bought the above mentioned cart. It burns oil visibly when the engine is cold. Once you drive it for a while, maybe 4 or 5 minutes, the smoke goes away. You can still smell it in the exhaust though.

I did a compression test, and it was 145 PSI, which seems not too bad to me. I'm willing to do a ring job myself if required, but is there a way to verify if the problem is a bad valve stem seal? Should I just pull the valve cover off and see?

Don't have an engine manual for it, is there one to download somewhere, or do I need to buy one?

Can I pull the cylinder off the engine without removing the block from the chassis?

The air filter housing is totally clean, no oil in it whatsoever. I checked the dipstick and it seems to be at the correct level.

Other than that, it's in good condition. I appreciate any tips or tricks.

[clayfor]

rlester,
When you say the dipstick is at the right level, do you mean it reads full? I bought a G14 last year that smoked like crazy. The dipstick read full. I changed it and added only 1Qt (Yamaha Recommended) and marked my stick so I know what full level is.. After a while it quit smoking.

[smallblock450sl]

145 lbs is on the low side (like to see 155 to 175 lbs), an old mechanics trick, put alittle oil in the cylinder and retest compression, if it rises, bad compression rings. Probably the oil rings have collapsed causing oil blow by into the cylinder, Yamaha's are kind of known for that. If the engine isn't noisey/rattly most likely a hone and rering would do the job, but you never know till you see the cylinder. Can give you tips and specs if you need them. You will most likely need the primary fixed sheave puller (they don't just always "pop off") to get the side case off.

[rlester]

Thanks guys. I will try the oil change and see what level it shows on the dipstick. It reads "full" so maybe it has too much.

Clayfor, how long did it take to stop smoking after you changed the oil?

I don't hear any noise in the engine so it probably just needs a re-ring. I will pull the cylinder off (if the oil change doesn't work) and see how worn things are.

Can I pull the cylinder off in the cart?

[smallblock450sl]

Originally Posted by rlester

Thanks guys. I will try the oil change and see what level it shows on the dipstick. It reads "full" so maybe it has too much.

Clayfor, how long did it take to stop smoking after you changed the oil?

I don't hear any noise in the engine so it probably just needs a re-ring. I will pull the cylinder off (if the oil change doesn't work) and see how worn things are.

Can I pull the cylinder off in the cart?

Nope, its part of the block.

[bigstik40]

Just a thought here --- would/could bad valve seals be the cause of smoking after cold start up. It seems to me that smoking due to bad rings wouldn't improve with running. Bad valve seals could leak down when sitting, then smoke till oil is burned off. Good luck - hope it's something simple. - RAY

[rlester]

Well, I changed the oil, and it had the correct amount in it. I poured the old oil into the one quart container, and it was exactly one quart. It still smokes, but gets better as it warms up.

I pulled the valve cover off. The intake stem seal is in good shape, soft and supple rubber. The exhaust does not appear to have one at all, is that the way it should be? Every car engine I've worked on had stem seals on both.

*EDIT*

Just looked at parts online and it looks like there is no stem seal for the exhaust. Well, I guess it must be the rings for sure. Just kind of weird how it goes away as it warms up.

What should the valve lash be adjusted to? They were set to 10 thou, is that correct?

[smallblock450sl]

Originally Posted by rlester

Well, I changed the oil, and it had the correct amount in it. I poured the old oil into the one quart container, and it was exactly one quart. It still smokes, but gets better as it warms up.

I pulled the valve cover off. The intake stem seal is in good shape, soft and supple rubber. The exhaust does not appear to have one at all, is that the way it should be? Every car engine I've worked on had stem seals on both.

*EDIT*

Just looked at parts online and it looks like there is no stem seal for the exhaust. Well, I guess it must be the rings for sure. Just kind of weird how it goes away as it warms up.

What should the valve lash be adjusted to? They were set to 10 thou, is that correct?

I had installed a valve stem seal on both intake and exhaust on every rebuild for years. I was "lessoned" by a very wise man not long ago, he explained why Yamaha didn't install a valve stem seal on the exhaust side (even though it's machined for one), it just gets to hot and destroy's the rubber seal in a short time. Factory setting for valves (both intake and exhaust) is .004 when the engine is cold. Just my 2 cents worth, hone,rering and a valve lap and you should be fine.

[rlester]

Well, I pulled the cylinder head off and I have a question. Is there no head gasket? Just looks like metal on metal. I took the head off with the engine in the cart, so in the next couple of days I will remove the engine and take it all apart so I can hone it.

I have one of those triple stone honing units, is that suitable for this engine? I've used it on cast iron blocks, but nothing like this.

There was quite a bit of oil on the cylinder walls, I'm pretty sure the rings are shot. Compression was 135 (hot) today after the kids rode it for an hour or so.