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03-12-2015, 12:00 PM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: new lebanon, OH
Posts: 758
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starter generator rebuild?
I pulled my non working starter generator and snapped this pic, I referred back to the manual to see what I need to look for, im assuming if I wanted to persue fixing this starter generator (wasn't charging) I need new brushes? If I adjust these do I measure the part thats sticking out? Whats the best way to clean also? thanks
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03-12-2015, 12:36 PM | #2 |
It ain't gonna be easy.
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. George, SC
Posts: 1,480
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Re: starter generator rebuild?
There are a couple of reasons that the generator won't charge. The most common seems to be bad brushes. The following video shows how easy it is and a couple of tricks to change them out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWb1JF-kvlU With that being said, in the service guide, there is a list of steps to properly isolate the issue with a no charge condition. One of the issues (the one I currently have) is that the field coils have grounded themselves to the case. This will require a full dis-assembly and repair. I just haven't made myself do it yet. LOL |
03-12-2015, 01:02 PM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: new lebanon, OH
Posts: 758
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Re: starter generator rebuild?
Im charging 11.6v at wide open throttle, With the green field wire grounded its 11.6v, with new starter generator 11.6v, Could it still be the regulator? I thought I was supposed to see over 14 volts with field wire grounded if the regulator was bad?
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03-12-2015, 01:06 PM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: new lebanon, OH
Posts: 758
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Re: starter generator rebuild?
lmao the captions in that video have me crackin up
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03-12-2015, 01:34 PM | #5 |
It ain't gonna be easy.
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. George, SC
Posts: 1,480
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Re: starter generator rebuild?
From the book:
c) Check for charging voltage as follows: 1) Raise the vehicle (see procedure in Section B) so that both rear wheels are free to rotate. 2) With the engine off, measure the voltage at the battery’s terminals by placing the negative (-) probe on the negative (-) post and the positive (+) probe on the positive (+) post of the battery. Note the reading. 3) Attach the DC voltmeter across the regulator’s red and black leads. 4) Start the engine and accelerate to governed speed. 5) The meter should read higher than before starting the engine. In a reasonable amount of time, the reading should settle between 14 and 15 volts, indicating the regulator is functioning properly. 6) If no increase over battery voltage is observed, there is a malfunction in the charging circuit. 7) If the reading is above 15 volts, check to assure the wiring harness and generator field winding (green lead) is not grounded. If it is not, replace the regulator. If the reading is below 14 volts, disconnect the regulator’s green field wire from the system harness. Temporarily connect the green field wire to ground. If the voltage rises above its prior reading, replace the regulator. 9) If the above procedures do not correct the problem, check for faults in the vehicles wiring harness and/or generator. |
03-12-2015, 01:35 PM | #6 |
It ain't gonna be easy.
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. George, SC
Posts: 1,480
|
Re: starter generator rebuild?
But the short answer is....... Probably a bad regulator.
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03-12-2015, 01:37 PM | #7 |
It ain't gonna be easy.
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. George, SC
Posts: 1,480
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Re: starter generator rebuild?
Here is another version of the test proceedure:
Test Procedure 7 - Starter/Generator (Starter Function) 1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL position, and chock the wheels. 2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary. 3. Disconnect the wires from all the terminals on the starter/generator. Then place the black (-) probe of a multimeter, set to ohms (O), on the starter/generator housing (scratch through the paint to insure a good ground). While holding the black probe against the housing, place the red (+) probe (one at a time) on the A1, A2, F1, F2 and DF terminals respectively (Figure 12-25, Page 100). The readings should be no continuity. If the readings are incorrect, the starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator, Page 107). An incorrect reading from A1 or A2 terminal indicates three possible problems: 1) a grounded A1 or A2 terminal, 2) a grounded wire in the brush area, or 3) a grounded armature/commutator. If the F1 or F2 reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded F1 or F2 terminal or a grounded field coil. If the DF reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded DF terminal or a grounded field coil. 4. Disconnect the ground wire from the A2 terminal and the green wire from the A1 terminal on the starter/generator. Using a multimeter set to ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the A1 terminal and the black (-) probe on the A2 terminal. The reading should be continuity. If the reading is incorrect, a possible open or poor contact in a brush assembly and/or open armature windings maybe the cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator, Page 107). 5. Disconnect the green wire from the F1 terminal and the white wire from the F2 terminal on the starter/ generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the F1 terminal and the black (-) probe on the F2 terminal. The reading should be continuity. If the reading is incorrect, a possible open field coil or bad connections at terminals may be the cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician 6. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal and the green wire from the F1 terminal on the starter/ generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the DF terminal and the black (-) probe on the F1 terminal. The reading should be between 4.5 to 5.5 ohms (O). If the reading is incorrect, a possible grounded DF terminal and/or grounded field coil may be the cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician Test Procedure 9 - Starter/Generator (Generator Function) 1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL position, and chock the wheels. 2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary. 3. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal on the starter/generator. Cover the connector on the yellow wire to make sure the yellow wire will not short to ground. Then, using a jumper wire, ground the DF terminal to the A2 terminal. Using a multimeter set to Volts DC (20v range), place the red (+) probe on the positive (+) post of the battery, and place the black (-) probe on the negative (-) post. Turn the key switch to the ON position, and depress the accelerator to start the engine. Run the engine at full governed speed. The reading should show voltage rising on the meter. If voltage rises, see Test Procedure 10 - Voltage Regulator. If the voltage does not rise, see Starter/Generator Repair, Pages 107-116. 4. Reconnect the yellow wire to the (DF) terminal on the starter/generator. Test Procedure 10 - Voltage Regulator: 1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL position, and chock the wheels. 2. Check that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary. 3. Start the engine and check engine-governored RPM. The reading should be between 2670-2730 RPM. If it is not, adjust the accelerator cable at the electrical component box (See Fuel System, Section 14). 4. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, and with proper ventilation, run the engine for several minutes to bring the voltage regulator to operating temperature, then release the accelerator pedal to stop the engine. Using a multimeter set to DC volt (DCV), place the red (+) probe on the large post of the solenoid with the red wire from the voltage regulator attached. Place the black (-) probe on the negative (-) post of battery. Depress the accelerator to start the engine, and run it at full governed speed. If the reading is between 14.7 and 15.3 volts, the regulator is good. If the reading is lower than 14.7 volts but rising steadily, check battery condition (See Hydrometer Test, Page 12. If the reading is lower than 14.7 volts and not rising, and the starter/generator is good; or if the reading is over 15.3 volts and continues to rise, replace voltage regulator |
03-12-2015, 02:36 PM | #8 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: new lebanon, OH
Posts: 758
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Re: starter generator rebuild?
I took the generator and regulator to Dayton quality starter, both tested good...pretty sure I have to track down a wiring problem now
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03-12-2015, 02:37 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: new lebanon, OH
Posts: 758
|
Re: starter generator rebuild?
I got a generator for sale though lol
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03-12-2015, 02:43 PM | #10 |
It ain't gonna be easy.
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. George, SC
Posts: 1,480
|
Re: starter generator rebuild?
how much?
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