01 EZ-GO PDS w/ Alltrax 400 and D&D Motor won't go! Please Help!!

[skinnyjerk]

Yes I can push it around, but I did notice when it sits for a few days without movement it is harder to push at first. Once it moves about 5 feet it is then easier to push. I also thought I might have a bad motor, but I wanted to ask around first.

I just picked up a cable at radioshack and I will check all the controller settings when I get home from work.

[Monsterezgokid]

Once you check the programming, and if everything is ok, i would then look into a problem with the communicator brushes or something in that contex..

The slight buzzing, or humming from the motor, can just be from the field coils that the controller also controlls.

After you do some of the checks that the others have mention, you might have to dig into the motor.. It might be a busted brush wire or such from not using 2 wrenches when tightning down the cables.

But check the controller programming first. using an rs232 cable. and the alltrax software. If your using a laptop, some dont alreay have a serial port, so youll need an usb to rs232.. and you should be good to go

I dont know if you mentioned it in your post, but did the dcx400 come with the cart pre installed when you got it, or did you install it? I just want to verify you have the proper pre charge resistor installed, and diode across the solinoid.

[skinnyjerk]

The DCX400 was already installed.

[skinnyjerk]

I just got finished programming the controller. the previous settings were:

High Pedal Disable-------checked ---------> I unchecked this
Plug Brake--------------unchecked
Turbo-------------------checked
1/2 Speed Reverse-------checked

Max Output--------------100%
Under Voltage------------30 Volts --------------> Changed to 24 Volts
Over Voltage-------------55 Volts -------------> Changed to 50 Volts
Throttle Up Rate----------5 ------------> Changed to 8
Throttle Down Rate-------5 --------------> Changed to 10
Brake Current-------------65%
Top Speed---------------100%

The E-Z-GO ITS was checked on the "Throttle Response" menu.

After I reinstalled the controller in the cart it still does the same thing.


Thanks for the suggestions so far, anything else I could check?

[skinnyjerk]

Ok well I got a chance to dig into the motor tonight after all. I pulled it out and took it apart. When I got it out and turned it open end down, a lot of junk fell out.. it looked almost like ashes? So I then took the cover off and noticed that all the wires were still connected to the studs, but the contacts were all rusted. The brushes were still connected to their wires, and the springs were all working properly. The motor also spins freely. I then took the shaft and hit it with a fine grit sandpaper to knock off the rust. I did this on the shaft and on the contacts on the inside of the case. I reassembled and wired it up without putting it back in. When I hit the gas it just stuck to one side (no spinning). So I thought it may need to be centered to work correctly, so I put it back in. With everything installed and wired up back to normal. NO change. Everything is still the same :(

STILL NOT WORKING!!!! AHHH

[Monsterezgokid]

If its not too much of a hassle could you take a picture of the controller and solinoid.. just so i can see how its wired up..

[skinnyjerk]

here it is..... don't know if you'll need any other info.

[Monsterezgokid]

This is the wiring diagram for your cart. Just double check to make sure everything is connected right..

http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc1...S-wire-dia.pdf

I do see the pre charge resistor.. But i dont see a solinoid coil diode installed. There could be damage caused to the controller electronics because of this,

but first check the diagram, then we can trace and test the ITS throttle sensor, to make sure its working. Its located under the floor board, there could be water in the throttle box. I had a similar issue with water in the box, and it caused wierd issues.

[skinnyjerk]

As far as I can tell all the wires are hooked up correctly. All the main wires (to motor, batteries, and solenoid) are hooked up correctly, but I don't really know what a coil diode looks like. It looks like it has a large resistor across the solenoid, but it doesn't say what it is.

I also checked the power at the motor at A1 and A2 while the pedal was pressed and there was no voltage. I don't know if there is supposed to be any or what it should read, but when I checked it across F1 and F2 it read 8 volts when the pedal was pressed. Just more info to add to the discussion.

[Monsterezgokid]

Originally Posted by skinnyjerk

but I don't really know what a coil diode looks like. It looks like it has a large resistor across the solenoid, but it doesn't say what it is.

That large resistor is the "pre charge resistor" it pre charges the capacitors in the controller so when the solinoid closes, it minimizes arcing of the contact. Now the field diode should go across the blue and yellow wire.. What this does is.. When you turn off the power to a coil (the one inside the solinoid) the field colapses and creates a high voltage splike.. This voltage spike can damage the controller internals.. So what the diode does is basicaly short the 2 ends together and nuralizes the voltage spike.. There is one thing however, you need to install it the correct way. Ill post a pic the proper direction, take note of the the side that has the silver band on the diode and how its connected to the yellow side of the wire.

Mine has a clear heat shrink wrap that i put on it, so its difficult to see what it is. but when you go to your electronic store, look for a 1 amp or larger diode. The big white things in the pic are just the pre charge resistors. I whent with high amperage ones.


Ok now onto the pedal box. This will requre you to remove the bolts for the carts running boards, remove the stainless covers, and now you should beable to lift the rubber carpet up and gain acess to the pedal box. Take the 4 phillips screws off, and take a look inside. Also it would help if you can take a pic, so we know if its set up properly

We will now beable to trouble shoot the ITS and wiring harness