1988 244cc 2PG Starting Issue

[ryanjap33]

I replaced the coil, ignitor, spark plug and plug wire tonight and now I get no spark. I replaced each connection one by one cleaned terminals and applied dielectric grease. Any ideas what I may have done wrong?

The green wire from coil and yellow from ignitor go to same stud on the LH side of solenoid. I believe there is a red one on that stud also. Black wire from ignitor goes to top stud on voltage regulator with another black wire. The blue /red plug end goes to pulsar and orange wire from ignitor to orange of coil. Do I have this correct?

[kyerik]

Sounds right to me- does the green/yellow/red solenoid stud get 12 volts when the engine spins? If not, maybe it is a bad solenoid.

Unplug the orange coil wire from the orange ignitor wire and touch the orange coil wire to ground while the engine is cranking- when you pull it away from ground (break contact with the bare metal) you should get a spark if the coil is OK and is getting 12 volts through the green wire.

[ryanjap33]

Thank kyerik, I will try that with the orange wire when I get home tonight.

Can anyone tell me what resistance I should get through coil,pulsar etc.?

Also, when cranking what terminals can I test on the solenoid to verify if it is functioning properly?

Thanks

[kyerik]

The pulser should have somewhere between 60-150 ohms- the most important thing is that it isn't 1 or zero.

The solenoid should click when in "gear" and the accelerator pedal is pressed and the side terminal (the one with the small wires for the coil and ignitor are attached) should get 12 volts when the solenoid clicks.

[ryanjap33]

The solenoid post with the green/yellow/red wire has 12 volts while engine is cranking and the solenoid clicks right before the engine starts to crank.

The pulsar coil has 156 ohms of resistance verifying what I believe to be good continuity through it. However, there is no continuity through the red/blue leads in the connector coming out of the ignitor.

Can you tell me what other electrical points i should test and what voltages i should get or have continuity between them?

[kyerik]

Unplug the 2 small wires going to the ignition coil- there should be 2-4 ohms between them.

I don't know how you would test the ignitor- I just did the HEI ignition module conversion.

[ryanjap33]

I tested the new ignition coil I installed yesterday and got no resistance through it or very little. I tested the old one and got 3.7ohms so I put it back in the cart and I got immediate spark. Tried starting it and it fired almost immediately. Just need to adjust Carb now and try and return a brand new coil that doesn't work!

I may eventually try the hei mod but I just want it to run again finally.

Thank you for all your help! I hope I can return the favor someday.

[kyerik]

You are welcome- I'm glad you got it fixed!

[ryanjap33]

Alright... now that it finally starts more issues have arisen.

It starts everytime it cranks now in either fwd or reverse,however, it will not build up rpm's. It'll stay at idle nonstop but when the throttle opens it starts to.pick up then dies. Just to note this is with the belt off an no load.

I pulled the fuel line off the Carb to check if pumping and it seems to throw a good stream

The Carb is brand new and I have taken it off and apart to clean out the jets and venturi's.

It has fresh gas in it mixed at 40:1 due to the new rebuild and break in.

I did notice that the fuel filter will run empty then refill itself after it sits awhile with the cart off.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

[1fast67]

have you had the fuel pump apart yet? i would mark it so you put it together the same way and check to see if any dirt got in there and check the diaphrams. they are plastic and like to crack.

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