Nogo EZgo

[yurtle]

This is for an AXE series controller. Make sure you have a series controller first. I'd start with your instructions.

Do you have four cables on your FNR? I may have misunderstood you. Another possibility is you used to have two cables on one FNR terminal, and if that's the case, removing that one would be correct.

[yurtle]

I reread your first post, and you state that it worked normally. If it used to work and now doesn't, assuming you didn't change anything, it's probably wired correctly. I thought from your statement, "Since the old controller had a blade for A2, I removed the cable that went to the F/R switch as per instructions on the new 3 blade controller.", that you were saying there were only three cables attached to your FNR.

[Yetti]

Yes, there are 4 cables going to the FNR, with the old controller it used to be 5, because of the A2 blade with one cable.
By a series controller do you mean as in series pos neg pos neg like the batteries in the cart? Because that's the way the cart is. Its a curtiss 1204 350 Amp
A friend of mine stopped over last night and tried helping me find the problem. We re ran the motor with the charger to confirm, inspected the cables, wiggled wires etc. but nothing.
He thought it strange that there would always be pack voltage to the 4 posts at the FNR even with the key off. And why aren't the tires spinning since there is a direct connection to the motor?

[yurtle]

Controller/Motor Type:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...go-guide-2.jpg

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html

There are two types of motor/controllers, series and sepex.

Since you had two cables on one post of the FNR, removing the one that went to the forth blade should be correct. Electrically, two cables on the forth blade or two cables on the FNR are the same.

[yurtle]

If you haven't done so, go to the Stickies and download Service, Parts, and Owners manuals. There are two links for wiring diagrams. Even if you can't find an exact match for your year, you should be able to use either an older or newer model.

There are several ways these can be wired to accomplish the same results.

[yurtle]

Since you have new batteries, go here:

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Batter...n_Methods.html

Also read all other links on that site regarding batteries and charging.

[JohnnieB]

Yetti,

Series controllers come with and without an A2 terminal.

For a controller withan A2 terminal, the motor's A2 terminal, The controller's A2 terminal and the F/R switch's C terminal were tired together. (IE: the same point electrically)
To save a few feet of heavy gauge cable, EZGO ran a short cable from A2 on the motor to A2 on the controller and another short cable from A2 on the controller to C on the F/R switch.

When switching to a controller that does not have an A2 terminal, either bolt the two cables that were attached to the previous controller's A2 terminal together (and insulate them) or replace them with a longer cable that will reach all the way from the motor's A2 terminal to the F/R switch's C terminal.

If the solenoid is clicking when the pedal is pushed, the problem is in the high current circuit, which is highlighted on the attached schematic.

Using a voltmeter, measure between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
When pedal is pushed just far enough to make the solenoid click, you should read FULL battery pack voltage between them.

If not, there is an open, or high resistance in the highlighted cables, contacts or connections.

Find the open/high resistance and fix it and you will solve the problem.

[Yetti]

Just tested M- to B- terminals
Battery Pack = 37.9 V
M- to B- before solenoid clicks = 37.2
M- to B- after solenoid clicks = 37.9

What next?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Yetti

Just tested M- to B- terminals
Battery Pack = 37.9 V
M- to B- before solenoid clicks = 37.2
M- to B- after solenoid clicks = 37.9

What next?

Slowly press pedal to floor.
The voltage between B- and M- should smoothly decrease to zero volts.

If not, either the throttle (ITS) or the controller is bad.

Here is the service manual for your cart. How to check ITS is in Section-G
http://www.ordertree.com/docs/1047/E...28124G01RS.pdf

[yurtle]

From your first post, it sounds like you replaced nearly everything electrical/electronic - controller, ITS, solenoid, FNR, MSs, batteries, etc.

If JohnnyB's tests fail, check the 4 wire MOLEX plug that connects the throttle box (ITS and MS) to the wiring harness.