DC motor wiring problem

[Sultany]

I have a John Deere Gator with a Kawasaki engine which I am seeing a conversion on.

I have a Curtis 1205 DC controller 48 for lithium ion battery Bank as a advanced motor.

with a multimeter and check the voltage on the battery terminals of the battery can I get 53 volts but when I check it controller I get 3 volts

The main contractor I am using and the dC controllers are brand new. I have a pre-charge resistor and a diode on the main contactor

I can't seem to figure out why I can't get the voltage to the PC controller whether I have a bad contactor resistor wasn't sure how to troubleshoot this

[jakesnake27]

to bgw

Cool conversion.

A couple of things I see in your pics. First is I don't see a positive activation wire going to the small post on the solenoid. Where is that small red wire going? Second, it appears you are using solid copper house style wiring for the smaller wires. You should be using stranded automotive style wire.

[ThreeCW]

Jakesnake27’s comment on the missing positive activation wire to one of the small posts of the main contractor (aka solenoid) is a concern. The other small solenoid post should be connected to the battery pack negative circuit. Without a positive activation wire (switched) and a negative wire, your solenoid will not function.

And where does the white wire go that is on the big post of your solenoid ?

Perhaps post a copy of the wiring diagram that you are using so that some of the BGW members can assist you.

It can be a fairly ambitious project to convert a cart to electric power ... and of course all the parts and pieces need to be compatible.

[Sultany]

Thank you so much for the quick response

I'm very excited about the conversion, I'll post some pictures once done

I have attached a wiring diagram to show you how it is currently set up

that is a good idea about the automotive wiring.

the red and white wire on the main contactor go to the key switch, I assume I can use automotive wiring I chose large copper wiring because I thought possibly there'd be some current running through it

[Jake_Daddy]

Any of the key switch, throttle control, ect can be 10-12ga autowire the cables between the motor, battery bank, solenoid, and controller need to be probably a minimum of 4ga. I assume the black wire was going to J1 in your picture. The big thing your missing is that your not providing a ground to the solenoid small post as previously stated then in that circuit you drew the key switch is the only control for opening and closing of the solenoid. A safety measure you may want to consider is another switch in that circuit in case something provides a throttle signal to the motor when not intended and it takes off, on most golf carts there is a micro-switch in the throttle so you have to have the key on and hitting the throttle (+ a switch that says its in gear) in order for it to move.

[Jake_Daddy]

Im sure others will chime in and I am guessing you have a mechanical reverse the way you have it wired at the motor. If not you need to add in a mechanical fwd and reverse switch or a reversing contactor. You almost have a diagram that "works" but you will probably get some good suggestions to make it better from others on the forum.

[Fairtax4me]

The reason for using stranded wire is because it has to be flexible. Solid wire is not flexible and will eventually fatigue and break. It is also less able to carry high DC current.
The activation wires for the solenoid are very low current typically only about 5 amps max, so you can get away with anything down to about 18awg stranded wire, but usually 14 awg is recommended.

In your diagram you have KSi controller input and solenoid activation + joined at the solenoid, which is fine, except you have do not negative for the solenoid coil. The coild needs a wire to B-.

Second thing in the pics you have the diode on the solenoid the wrong way. The banded side of the diode (red wires side) needs to point toward the positive wire. If you hook that up wrong it will cook the diode and any switches you have between the power source and the solenoid.

Third, where is your directional control for your motor? You need a Forward/ reverse switch to reverse motor direction, unless you plan only going forward all the time.

[Sultany]

Should I provide the ground to the large bolt that has the positive terminal of the battery or the small one that has the diode

And in regards to the previous post is the solenoid supposed to be connected to negative terminal of the battery because it currently is not

the pedal potentiometer I have has multiple lines I'm only using the two that change the resistance on J2 j3 of the microcontroller

I am using the efp005. Pedal

It has a total of 5 wires I am only using two for the DC controller there are two other ones called switch in and switch out I'm assuming that is the pedal switch you referring to as a safety mechanism but I don't have those connected because I didn't know where to connect them

Should I just connect them to the same terminals that the KSI use wire to?

[ThreeCW]

Sultany,

I would like to suggest something politely ... STOP right now before you connect something incorrectly and burn out your controller, solenoid or other equipment ... unless it is too late alreay .

It looks like you need to take some time and come up with a proper wiring diagram that will give you a successful outcome on paper first ... and once you are satisfied on paper for the components you are using, then perhaps ask for some feedback from the BGW members on your proposed wiring diagram. Once you get it figured out and reviewed, then (and only then) should you attempt to carefully wire it. Once you have it wired and BEFORE you energize the circuit, have the BGW crew again review you wiring photos.

Doing a conversion from mechanical to electric is a very ambitious and expensive project and you want to ensure that you do it right the first time, because one wrong wire can fry your electronic components and be a frustrating and costly experience.

Perhaps start by posting a list of all the major components you are proposing (include make, model and ratings) and we can provide you some feedback.

The Curtis 1205 is a Series motor controller, so I assume you have a series motor ... what make and model?

Perhaps as a starting point, have a look at the attached generic series wiring diagram from Alltrax (a motor controller manufacturer) ... this is an EXAMPLE ONLY ... your wiring may be similar (or not). Your wiring diagram should be designed around your Curtis controller.

Good luck with your build ... it sounds like an exiting (and challenging) project.

Regards, 3CW