Can a new lift and tires cause a battery terminal to melt?

[RodMcGillicuddy]

I have a 2010 Club Car DS. Two months ago I had to replace all of the batteries and I could see my tires were getting worn out. I decided to spend some money and upgrade. I bought a 6" lift, 23" tires on 12" rims and installed them yesterday. Everything went smooth and the cart looked great! Took it for an inaugural 2 mile ride with a full load of 3 grown ups and 3 kids. After the ride I put in on the charger because I planned to take my family out for a ride after dinner. The charger ran a full cycle and we loaded up to go out, but less than a quarter mile from my house I heard a small pop and we lost all power. I opened the seat and I had a melted post where the positive wire goes out to the controller on the last battery in the series. I have been reading and see that the most common cause is a loose connection, but the timing seems a bit suspicion. We have been riding this cart on the stock suspension and wheels since the new batteries were installed with no issues. Was this just bad luck or did the big lift and tires over stress my system? I don't want to sacrifice another battery until I have addressed the issue. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

[Lochlin]

Your upgrades wouldn't have caused the issue per se. It more likely that the process of the upgrades, ie. jostling the cart around, banging things during the lift install, etc. aggravated the connection on that post. It happens. The good news is that a repair is fairly easy.

[RodMcGillicuddy]

I thought about that too. Makes the most sense, but the timing is just made me worry. Didn't know if maybe that added stress of the heavier tires and lift could have caused it. As for the repair, I assume you just mean buy a replacement battery and resecure all the leads?
My son's name is Lochlan by the way. Spelled a little different, but we don't meet too many of them. Thanks again!

[jakesnake27]

to BGW

You don’t have to buy a new battery, see here:

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/batt...nal-repair.php

[rib33024]

Yes the big tires over stress the system and caused most of the problem. Going from stock tires to 23 inch tires is a big strain on the motor controller and the battery cables.

[WalterM6]

The biggest problem is over tightening the cables. Too much and the bolt will break the lead seal on the battery top and cause a bad connection. Get a torque wrench and from now on only tighten to 100 in/lbs

[RodMcGillicuddy]

Thanks, do you have any suggestions to mitigate the problem? Do i need to upgrade the controller? I have a Curtis 250 amp on it now and all new heavy duty leads between the batteries, but the hot wire going from the terminal that melted to the controller was still the original from before the new battery install. Not tiny by any means, but not as heavy gauge as the new battery-to-battery cables.

[Chevota Guy]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

The biggest problem is over tightening the cables. Too much and the bolt will break the lead seal on the battery top and cause a bad connection. Get a torque wrench and from now on only tighten to 100 in/lbs

This is solid advice. I just purchased a 1/4" drive torque wrench for exactly this reason as I'm upgrading my battery cables. OEM battery terminal torque spcs say 98-105 in-lbs. Pretty narrow range.

[RodMcGillicuddy]

Originally Posted by jakesnake27

to BGW

You don’t have to buy a new battery, see here:

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/batt...nal-repair.php

Thank you for the nice welcome. Unfortunately, I am not sure that trick will work for me as the terminal melted through the plastic which is a shame because I am still showing 8.3v across the terminals. After reading some more I became aware that the professional battery installer that replaced the batteries used much bigger cables between each battery than I previously had, but he did not replace the red wire that connects to the terminal that melted and out to the controller (see picture attached). The battery-to-battery cables are 4 (maybe 2) gauge and the red wire to the controller appears to be 6. Could this be the cause? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[Sergio]

When high current passes through a poor connection which has a high resistance it generates heat.

It is hard to tell from the melted terminal if the charger receptacle red wire was under the main cable, it if was, that was an amateur mistake.

You always place the higher current carrying cable in direct contact with the surface you are connecting, so the main cable that goes to the Solenoid should have been in direct contact with a clean battery post.

Never put a washer or another small ring terminal under the main cable lug.

You need to replace the main Red cable to the Solenoid and cut and re-crimp the Red wire that goes to the charger receptacle.