Removal of rear hub castle nut

[94Cobra]

WD 40.... Soak that puppy for a good long while. Keep going back every hour and spray the nut about 5 times totally. Then you can shock it off with a hammer. As a last resort take the differential cover off and jam a piece of soft wood (Pine) in the gear to lock it. Thats a last resort after trying everything else listed on this page first. I am sure you already have the problem solved at this point, but what the heck...

[azTony]

Originally Posted by simple man

You can rent an electric impact gun for a few bucks at your local auto parts store. Torque the nut to 140ft lbs when you replace it. The parts store will have a rental torque wrench also!

P.S. If the hole for the cotter pin doesn't line up, tighten the nut further until it does. Don't back it off to line up the hole! :)

I read another thread that says to torque to 140 then back off and tighten to 70 and put in the cotter pin and tighten to align the hole.

Where is this documented.

[TerryH]

Sounds like an excellent time for a new tool!!!

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-e...nch-68099.html

And BTW...... I always torque mine to 1/2" impact.

[kellybell]

Here is how I did it - no impact wrench, no dynamite, no praying to the gods. Get a big freaking wrench - we call it a BFW - Take the BFW and wedge it between 2 of the lugs on the drum and the floor. Now take a wrench that fits - I want to think its 11/16 but who knows. Now while holding the wedge BFW in place use it as leverage to hold the drum still and remove the castellated nut. You may have to use a big freaking hammer - BFH on the 11/16 wrench to get it to budge. Worked for me both sides!

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by azTony

I read another thread that says to torque to 140 then back off and tighten to 70 and put in the cotter pin and tighten to align the hole.

Never heard that instruction, and don't agree with it either. Torque it tight, pin it, and never back it off unless you're removing it.

[tdump]

Slow as it may be,I have used a dremel and cutting disc or die grinder, to remove castle nuts from Model t ford axles that have been in place nearly 100 years The cotter pins at that age are usually rusted off down in the axle threads and you have to clean and find,then punch out the remnants.
Heat helps if it is a rust issue but I doubt that is your issue.

Another idea,slow and may not work,if there is any axle out past the nut,cut a groove in it and put a screw driver in there that has a square shank,then use a adjustable to hold the screw driver in the axle and try to break the nut loose.

I had to cut a nut from a electrical stud on my cart motor tonight.it was no comeing off any other way.Went thru 8 disc with the dremel but it is off!

[scottyb]

I've got a half dozen Ezgo electric manuals they all say torque to 90-140 ft pds to make the cotter pin holes line up. None of them say to back off and retorque although that doesn't sound like a bad idea just think 70 Ft pds is too little.....

[azTony]

I read it here at post #6

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...golf-cart.html

But after reading again I am not sure that was the intent.

At any rate it was no problem getting the rear castle nuts off. I broke both of them using a pry bar between the studs in one hand and a breaker bar in the other. Obviously they were not torqued correctly. I will torque them to 140 ft lbs today when I get home.

A Harbor Frieght slide hammer tool made removing the seal a 2 minute job per side and was on sale for $19.99.

I need to adjust the brakes after I torque then take her for a ride!!

[Sir Nuke]

well no one has mentioned it yet.....but it would be highly recommended to put some anti-seize on the threads of the axel before you put the castle nut back on......if you ever have to remove it again.....you won't be posting the same problem again.

[azTony]

I had no problem removing, I have been bouncing all over trying to find the torque. I am apparently not communicating very well.

This thread is about removing but my search brought me he for the torque specs. I can not find the torque spec in the manual I have from the stickies so apparently I am missing something.

Thanks for the feedback.