99 ezgo no click after quick spark

[Taykol]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

You've got it backwards. The burnt switches will prevent the solenoid form clicking.

It is a series circuit, and the voltage has to pass through all of the switches I listed to activate the solenoid.
It's like the old Christmas tree lights, when one bulb burnt out, they all went out.

If there is pack voltage on the small white wire coming out of the charger receptacle, the reed switch is okay.

Next place to check for pack voltage is the Red wire on MS-2 (mounted on F/R assembly), then the Blue wire from MS-2 to the Keyswitch, then the green wire from Keyswitch to MS-3, and so on.

First for the reed switch. It looks as though mine has been bypassed, the small white wire has been cut since purchase. Below is pic and to remind the cart was running and charging fine before my ''test". (Side note: There was a quick electrical pop when removing the charger receptacle because I neglected to remove the B- wire before unscrewing)
How can I test a reed switch in this condition?


Next check. With DVM on B- and positive lead touching MS-2. I am not getting a reading on the read wire.
So my problem is previous to the red MS-2 wire.

[Taykol]

Upon further review.
The charger receptacle + and - go straight to the battery+ and -
There was a wire going from b+ to ms2 but it was disconnected/melted, leaving that side of ms2 empty. I'm assuming before any of this trouble.
The other side/ terminal of ms2 connects to ms4 and the blue wire on its way to ms3/key switch.
Most others look similar to the diagram.

[scottyb]

It sounds like you have no + voltage to your F&R MS? What does your meter say?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Taykol

Upon further review.
The charger receptacle + and - go straight to the battery+ and -
There was a wire going from b+ to ms2 but it was disconnected/melted, leaving that side of ms2 empty. I'm assuming before any of this trouble.
The other side/ terminal of ms2 connects to ms4 and the blue wire on its way to ms3/key switch.
Most others look similar to the diagram.

Put a new push-on connector on the red wire and connect it to the terminal that has a connector without a wire in it and either the solenoid will click when it is supposed to, or you'll have voltage to MS-2 and need to look for another boo-boo in the series chain.

[Taykol]

Originally Posted by scottyb

It sounds like you have no + voltage to your F&R MS? What does your meter say?

I don't have ANY voltage readings on my f&r micro switches. The fix below should take care of that.

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Put a new push-on connector on the red wire and connect it to the terminal that has a connector without a wire in it and either the solenoid will click when it is supposed to, or you'll have voltage to MS-2 and need to look for another boo-boo in the series chain.

Going to discount auto parts to pick up connectors. Will post pics a results later today!

Thanks to you both!

[Taykol]

ALL IS RIGHT IN THE WORLD!
Thank you johnnieb and Scottyb, I needed power to the f&r.
As you can see in very first pic posted if you zoom to the lower right you will see the red wire coming from b+ that was detached from a push in connect below it. Put a ring terminal on that wire and screwed it in ms2 where it popped out.
WHAMMO!!
I really think there should be a sticky illustrating and explaining how to trace the wires from the battery thru to the solenoid.
TXT solenoid activation
Power starts on the White wire on the 36+ of the battery pack.
Power travels to the charger receptacle, goes through a reed switch inside the receptacle and comes out on the red 12 gauge red wire.
The red wire travels back through the loom to the Forward and reverse switch where it attaches to a micro.
The other side of that micro has a blue wire attached that runs under the cart to the front and arrives at the keyswitch.
The keyswitch then transfers power to a green wire which returns to the area of the Forward and Reverse switch.
the power then goes through a 4 pin Molex connector and travels to the "pedal Box" (located under the floorboard of the car) where it goes through a micro and comes out on another red wire.
That red wire comes back up to the Controller/F&R area where it once again goes through the 4 pin molex connector and continues on to the small post of the solenoid.



Thanks again for the help. Where should donations go?

[scottyb]

If we did that what would we post day after day?

[Taykol]

Very true. Don't want you guys with too much free time!

[simple man]

Originally Posted by scottyb

You missed the joyful experience of taking a known good bulb and pluggin it into 50-75 sockets to find the burnt bulb, then?

Easy way to test these is borrow your wifes tazer. Put the lights plug between the two contacts and let it arc through the light string. You'll see the one with the bad filament, as it will arc where the filament is broken! A somewhat dark area helps to do this and it won't hurt the good bulbs as there's not enough current flow!
The zappers make great torch lighters too!

[JohnnieB]

A non-contact AC voltmeter that flashes & buzzes also works, but neither that nor tazers were around when it was my job to find the bad bulbs.

Now SWMBO and I have a ceramic tree with multicolor LEDs.