Club Car Wheel Stud Replacement

[ACCLR8N]

I picked up a grade 8 nut and washers to draw them in. Hopefully you at least have a 1/2" breaker bar. I did use an air impact.

[Fairtax4me]

Red Lock-tite on stud knurl will usually hold pretty well.

Did you try to fit new studs from the dealer? The knurl is meant to deform as it goes into the hole, so it’s usually .004-.005” larger than the hole, sometimes more if it’s a larger diameter.

To pull the new stud in be sure to lubricate the threads with some kind of oil. Use a couple of washers stacked together so the nut doesn’t bottom out on the stud. Turn the nut so it pulls the stud into place.
If there is access it’s often quicker to hammer the stud in, but that may not be an option if this is on a rear hub/axle.

[SouthCo]

I’ve pulled a few studs through vehicle wheel hubs. Put the studs in the freezer overnight. Then just use a nut and some washers to pull them through manually. You don’t need an impact or hammer to get them through.


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[joepiccaso]

SouthCo, Freezer! Good catch. And, heat the Axle Flange a bit, too, I imagine. Yea, I've done them on my cars when I was young and broke. Actually, I was thinking of using the 4-way lug wrench I used to strip them out with the first time.

[joepiccaso]

Fairtax, I did not. Since three of them actually stiped teh axle flange hole out some, I was afraid that the OEM stud may not hold tight enough and I could be back to cutting the studs off again one day. But, if these oversized studs are too oversized, them the OEM may work.

[joepiccaso]

WalterM6, the nuts all came off and the wheel and brake hub shifted and the wheel tore the stud threads up pretty badly. I got some new nuts and tried to pull the wheel on tight enough to drive it back home. Trying to tighten the nuts on the studs enough to hold the wheel on caused the stud to turn in the axle flange hole. Trying to get the nuts off later just made it worse. One can get a lot of torque using one of those 4-way lug wrenches. The holes are not wallered out, but they are about 0.01" larger now (0.51" vs original 0.50") That's how it happened.

[joepiccaso]

This is how I replaced the stripped wheel studs on my CC Transender. I'm sure there are better and easier ways. An impact wrench sure would be easier, but I was concerned stripping them again could be easy as well. With the lug wrench or socket, you have the feel when it bottoms out. Anyway, this is what I did:

Wheel stud replacement for my CC golf cart

1. I used a Dremel to cut the old studs and nut off and removed them
2. I put the new studs in the freezer the night before.
3. Getting the stud behind the wheel flange and into the hole was a bit challenging and if they had been 1/4" longer, I may have had to grind them down some. But if you do, thread a nut on first to clean the threads after grinding.
4. I started with the stud hole just slightly right of TDC. You have to put the stud in head first, then wiggle it into the flange hole from the backside. At this point I had the hold it in place and rotate the wheel flange a bit clockwise to clear the brake shoe and line the stud up to pull it in through the hole.
5. Holding it in from the backside, I slipped a stack of washer, 3 or 4 over the stud. I put some anti-seize grease on both sides of the top washer, and a touch on the stud threads before putting the lug nut, flat side first, on.
6. Finger tightened the nut and used an impact driver to put enough tension on the stud to hold it in place. It would barely pull the stud into the hole.
7. I took a long Screwdriver and put it through the hole in the wheel flange and into the opening of the Brake adjuster. I could hold the flange from turning while tightening the nut to pull the stud in place.
8. I used a 4-way lug wrench to pull the stud through. The first few turns were hard, but as it started in it got easier.
9. There is a definite stop when the stud bottomed out, but the camera on my iPhone was great to confirm it was down.
10. I did all four that way and at times due to going to different holes positioning and holding the flange down got a little difficult.
11. I cleaned the brakes, put the brake drum on, used brake cleaner to clean the studs of the anti-seize grease, adjusted the brakes and put the wheel back on with new lug nuts.
One mistake was that I put the Parking brake on as a precaution, but it was on jack stands and couldn't go anywhere. What it did do was freak me out when I couldn't get the brake drum back on. then I got smart and released the brake and it went on fine.

Thanks, everyone for your input. I don't know if freezing the studs helped, but is made sense and it couldn't hurt.