Grounding - Different Voltages

[statjunk]

In my drawing where should the fuse go? I did buy one with 3amp fuses. But I only have one.

I figured since it's a factory light set up that somewhere it is fused. I was going to fuse the voltage meter.

Thanks

Tom

[statjunk]

Houston we have a problem. I could really use some help here.

So far I have the voltage meter and the switch on the dash and hooked up to the wires provided in the dashboard. I do not have the second switch hooked up yet. See the diagram I provided since I've done everything there except hook up the second switch.

The voltage meter works. The switch initially worked. Then the switched started to smell like it was burning and then the LED went out. The smell has since stopped and the switch is still functioning as a switch but the LED burned up.

I'm going to guess that the LED requires 12 volts to operate the LED not 48v like I'm running through it.

Here is a link to the switch:


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=84883

All the packaging says is 25 amps. Makes no mention of voltage.

What can potentially happen in this situation? Any ideas? Does a switch like what I'm looking for exist?

Would should I do at this point?

Thanks

Tom

[statjunk]

I ran the voltage meter for a solid five minutes and it didn't produce anymore burn smell but of course the LED doesn't work either.

I went ahead and added the switch for the 12v lights and it worked perfectly.

I really believe the LED failed due to the 48v. Can anyone confirm this?

Is there a switch out there were the LED won't burn up due to the 48v?

Can I trust the switch if the LED is burned up?

I'm going to take her for a ride now and with the lights on and the voltage meter running.

Tom

[mkbrower]

The LED is supplied by the 12V going to your headlights. If you have 48V running to your headlights you would have fried more than your LED. Your switch just interupts the 12V supply to your lights but also supplies the 12V needed to light the LED. Because the LED indicator light is on its own circuit, it needs its own ground and is why your rocker needs a ground. I have always had trouble with the cheaper rocker switches burning out the LED, however a burn smell is a cause for concern and is why a fuse is essential for circuit protection. Make sure your circuit is rated for the amount of amps your lights will draw. To figure your amps divide the wattage by your volts. For example, if you have two 40W bulbs divide 80 by 12 and the answer would be about 6.5 amps. Why do you think you have 48Volts going to your LED? Drawing does not show supply source for your lights but I assume its from your reducer. Grounds are mearly a path for electrons to flow from the battery to the load and do not determine voltage if that is what you are thinking.

Mark

[statjunk]

The switch that fried is on the voltage meter which is measuring the voltage from the battery pack so it is 48v.

Anyone else have an idea of what my next move should be?

My other concern is if I need another switch I might be in some doo doo because I already drilled a 15/16 hole in the dash to mount the switch.

Tom

[Token]

did you fry your voltage meter switch? in your drawing that switch has 48v running through it. not 12v like your lights..

[Token]

the only way i think you can do what you want is maybe with 12v led switch connected to a relay that enables 48v to the meter when on.... I dont think there is an easily obtainable switch that can isolate a 12v led on a 48v circuit, maybe a rare, mythical 48v led switch.... at least you have a "common" ground... unlike those of us using separate 12v accessory battery.

[mkbrower]

I'm sorry I misunderstood you, I thought you were refering to your headlight switch. 48V through a switch designed for 12V killed your LED. I agree, the only probable way to do what you want is find a switch with LED designed for 48V (unlikely) or use a relay. I'm out

Mark

[Speedchaser]

I am confused. Do you have 8 volt batteries? The old light switch I believe should have 16 volts running through it if you have 8 volt bats. If you have 48 volts on the positive terminal you have a problem and your lights are gunna fry. If you tapped into the old switch and ran ground though the gground wire for the meter I would thing you are ok. It could be that 16 vts was too much for the led if you have 8 volt bats.

If you have 12 volt bats then disregard

[statjunk]

Is it ok to keep using the switch?

Tom