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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
11-05-2014, 10:07 AM | #11 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: GA
Posts: 180
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Re: New Electrical Problem
Thanks for the wiring diagram. That will help alot. Your guidance on the voltages I measured on the ITS that are mixing circuits is duly noted. I wont venture there again!!
When I was talking about the white to black in the switch I interpreted those as inputs from the ITS that go back to the controller. I measured voltage in the four pin connector on the battery side. I figured that since they appear to sense the amount of throttle that is pushed there shouldn't be any voltage on those...I'll leave this alone since you didn't give me direction to measure here. I was just grasping. Now in regards to "Across red to green I got 35.6v This means the pedal switch contacts are not making contact. Was the pedal pushed?"...i cant recall if the pedal was pushed or not. I'll go back tonight and verify again and clearly write down all of the conditions when I measure the voltages. In regards to the solenoid not pulling in wouldn't that indicate that maybe the four pin connector could be the issue since it wasn't getting a signal from any circuit that it needed to pull in? Coupled with the fact that before I took the four pin connector apart to clean it the solenoid would pull in? Man I'm terrible at electrical stuff..I'm a mechanical guy..wish dad was still around!! You're help has definitely been awesome. I feel like eventually I'll get her figured out. If nothing else I am definitely learning things in this process! |
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11-05-2014, 10:31 AM | #12 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: New Electrical Problem
The ITS sensor in the pedal box is a proximity detector. The current flowing in the white wire comes from the controller and flows back to the controller via the black wire. The black plastic thingy with a hole through it that lurks in the box under the floorboard is only about 1/3 of the ITS (Inductive Throttle System), the other 2/3 are in the controller.
On the other hand, getting the solenoid to click is entirely outside the controller. From the battery pack's positive terminal, through three or four sets of switch contacts in series to the solenoid coil and then back to the pack's negative terminal. |
11-05-2014, 07:47 PM | #13 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: GA
Posts: 180
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Re: New Electrical Problem
Ok. I was able to do a little testing. Once again nothing happened when the throttle was pushed. Solenoid didn't pull in. No voltage across the white or black either place, controller or under floor mat.
So I went to shaking the wires with the four pin connector while I had the throttle pushed and the solenoid starting kicking in and out. So tomorrow I will cut out the four pin connector and solder the wires together and start back troubleshooting. |
11-07-2014, 08:11 PM | #14 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: GA
Posts: 180
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Re: New Electrical Problem
JohnnieB
YOU DA MAN! Cut out the four pin connector, soldered the wires, and she's good to go! Thank you so much for your help! |
11-08-2014, 07:08 AM | #15 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: New Electrical Problem
No, You're Da Man.
You found the problem and fixed it. I just suggested what the problem might be. Glad to hear you got her going. |
11-08-2014, 07:30 AM | #16 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: GA
Posts: 180
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Re: New Electrical Problem
Well Mr. Johnnie, its back tobthe drawing board. Ran her all around the neighborhood last night with no issues. Loaded her up on the trailer and took her to the hunting club this morning. Put it in reverse, backed if the trailer just fine, then out it in forward and nothing. Solenoid wont even pull in. It'll have to wait untilmtomorrow.
If I cant get her fixed tomorrow she's off to the professionals!! |
11-08-2014, 08:01 AM | #17 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: New Electrical Problem
I'm speculating, but the solenoid not clicking in Forward, immediately after the cart ran in Reverse, sounds like an mechanical issue with the "Run" microswitch (MS-2) on the F/R assembly.
The F/R selector lever rotates a cam with four high current contacts and on the outside edge of the cam (circumstance) there are two indentations the the roller arm of the microswitches drop into, closing the N.O. switch contacts. The F/r assembly in your cart is mounted with the microswitches at the top and attached drawing shows it with them at the bottom, but the switches and indentations work the same way. Just rotated 180°. I suspect the cam is either not being rotated full into the Forward stop, or there is a debris buildup in the indentations. |
11-08-2014, 09:05 AM | #18 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,410
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Re: New Electrical Problem
I might add that if you heavy corrosion in one point of the wiring you might have similar corrosion in another part of the system so go back and check every solenoid activation switch, connection, and wire before you give up.
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11-08-2014, 12:15 PM | #19 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: GA
Posts: 180
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Re: New Electrical Problem
Started this morning a little fruateated because the cart messed up on us. Left it at our hunting house and hit the woods. Me and the boy killed a big ol' fat doe which was great! However, it gets better. Started looking at the cart and found the small blue wire to the microswitch had come completely off. I put it back on and there was no resistance pushing it on! Crimped her down with some pliers, slid her back on and all is well!!
Thanks again Johnnie and Scotty I appreciate the words of encouragement!! :) |
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