2013 txt 48 volt

[sonnysmith]

Does anyone have a test procedure for the new txt 48 volt ez go?? when you don't have a hand held computer. I have looked at the wiring diagram and it look like it might not be too hard. But I need a JohnnieB to tell me where to place the leads and just how much you can test with this method. I just bought one and the solenoid will not click. Don't know how to check controller. Jump neg to one side of solenoid and it clicks. So I need more direction.

Thanks all
Sonny

[DaveTM]

If you own and electric cart, the very first tool you should own is a Volt Meter. These are not costly tools and they are really a must have for DX any issues with an electric cart. Here's one at Northern Tool for $15 that will do all of your fundamental testing. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FUsV7Aod0SMAqQ

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

Does anyone have a test procedure for the new txt 48 volt ez go?? when you don't have a hand held computer. I have looked at the wiring diagram and it look like it might not be too hard. But I need a JohnnieB to tell me where to place the leads and just how much you can test with this method. I just bought one and the solenoid will not click. Don't know how to check controller. Jump neg to one side of solenoid and it clicks. So I need more direction.

Thanks all
Sonny

Please post the wiring diagram or schematic you are using, so we are both on same page.

If it is a sepex system, it works about the same as a 36V PDS.

Energizing solenoid is a two step operation, You have to "arm" it then "fire" it.

If the solenoid clicks when blue(?) wire is connected to pack negative, it is being armed.
That tells me the problem is in the pedal switch, or a bad controller (or wires and connections in pedal switch circuit)

[cgtech]

This might help.

[sonnysmith]

cgtech that is the wiring diagram that I was looking at.
I have not worked on the cart at all. Just got it. I will dig deeper when I get back from Deer hunting trip. I have a dvm, just don't know about the voltages at different points. If it is like a 36 volt PDS. Then I'm good to go.
Just unsure about checking the pins on controller or if that is what should be done.

Thanks all

[JohnnieB]

I don't know what the plug looks like, but if the backside where the wires go in is open like they are on a 36V PDS controller, just connect the negative DVM to the main negative terminal on the battery pack (or B- terminal on controller) and probe the backside of the plug pins with the positive test lead.

The only pin on the controller's 16 pin plug I'm not sure of is Pin-5 (Charge Disable). Don't know if it needs to be high or low for the controller to work.

Looks like you need pack voltage on Pins 6, 9, 10 and either 8 or 16 for the solenoid to click.

[scottyb]

This is the diagram

[JohnnieB]

The main harness wiring diagram has the pin numbers on the plug and is easier to see. But doesn't show the switches, just the wires to and from them.

[scottyb]

First thing to determine is which of the 2 currents is missing to complete the solenoid activation circuit. Positive or negative?

[JohnnieB]

Sidebar, but related.

Never laid eyes of a 48V TXT, so I have a couple questions.

1. What voltage is supposed to be present on Pin-5 (Charger Disable) for the controller to be operable?

Is this the reed switch concept reincarnated to haunt us?

2. To me, the dotted yellow line between the switched side of the keyswitch and what is labeled Splice 2, indicates the solenoid coil can be "Armed" (B+ applied) two way. Either from the keyswitch or by the controller.

If so, that means the only time the controller is supplying B+ to the solenoid is when the key is off (IE: Walkaway safety).